B16a3 or B18b
ok ok came to conclusion im either getting one of these 2 motors not to sure which one i should get though both stock however b18 has about 12000 miles less than b16a3.....the b18 is out of a stock 94 ls.........which is better to build? which has higher potential?....and what puts down more horses stock?
Thanks
Thanks
most people are going to rip you up for this but it depends on what you want to do with your car. I would prefer the b18 because it has more torque and has more displacement if you want to add vtec at a later time it isnt a hard thing t do n0wadays. SO in SHort buy the b18 save your money now and then turbo that thing later
the b16 has more hp stock from factory than the b18.
what are you planning on doing with the car?
Is it your daily?
you can go either way with the ls. ls/turbo or ls/vtec
with the b16a you can really only build it or turbo. same as above hahahhahaa
what are you planning on doing with the car?
Is it your daily?
you can go either way with the ls. ls/turbo or ls/vtec
with the b16a you can really only build it or turbo. same as above hahahhahaa
I'm going to stay neutral here because my 92 LX is VTEC but I also had a DA with the B18 in it. Everything that everyone has said is correct. The B16 is going to have more horsepower and the added bonus of VTEC while the B18 is going to have about 20+ more lb/ft of torque which is better for the hole shot (acceleration). Which one you want to choose is entirely up to you but you have to weigh out the options. If you want to stay NA, then the B18 probably isn't what you want (the car will still be fast but not as fast as it would be NA with the B16). BUT on the other hand, if you want to go turbo the B18 will be your best friend. The rods are alot thicker and beefier than the B16's and the compression ratio is perfect for turbo applications, while the B16's CR isn't too high, but not nominal for forced induction because detonation becomes a factor. All in all, if you want a fast car that really rips and is naturally aspirated, the B16 is the way to go. But if you want a turbo monster that can handle 300+ horsepower on a stock bottom end, then the B18 is your beast. Like everyone has said or will say, what you plan on doing with your car is where your choice will be. Either way, good luck and keep us posted. Just to add this, my T3/T4 powered B18A1 put down 256 WHP @ 5600 RPM and 228 LB FT of torque @ 4600 RPM on a kit that I put together for less than $1200 and ran great for 2 years until my tranny let loose. Also, with either motor, for God's sake get a GSR tranny.
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Hey dude how did u piece a turbo that cheap together help me out! on this......i just might do it now......boost and engine....... thats freaking cheap a turbo for my wrx is like 2500 man........now im really interested in turbo and b18b
There was a thread exactly like this that still fl,oating around here. It was only a few days ago, and you'll see mixed responses in both threads. B18b was a good choice...what tranny are you going to use?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anthonyrod1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey dude how did u piece a turbo that cheap together help me out! on this......i just might do it now......boost and engine....... thats freaking cheap a turbo for my wrx is like 2500 man........now im really interested in turbo and b18b</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honestly man, that was 5 years ago. But to answer your question, I bought a manifold and downpipe on Ebay for $250, then I bought a 38mm Tial wastegate for $100, then I bought 440cc injectors from a 90 Talon for $60, then I went to my local junkyard and bought a used T3 from a Dodge Daytona for $50, I bought a rebuild kit and rebuilt it myself for $100, I bought a used ZDyne Gold SECU for $500, I bought an Ebay intercooler for $150, I made charge pipes from a couple of cold air intakes I had lying around, then my friend gave me a T4 turbo from a school bus that he had lying around that needed rebuilt so I took the T4 exhaust wheel and shaft and exhaust housing and installed my T3 intake wheel and compressor housing and installed it on the T4 and ported and polished it. Various seals and vacuum lines ran about $50. Then a base tune and dyno testing ran me about $250. Granted I shopped around and planned and researched for about a year before I installed everything and tuned it but it came out nice. I wish I still had pics but like I said it's been 5 years. But anyway, I basically built the whole thing and installed it myself for around $1510. It ran REAL strong on 10 psi on stock internals. But with the right tune you can accomplish almost anything.
Honestly man, that was 5 years ago. But to answer your question, I bought a manifold and downpipe on Ebay for $250, then I bought a 38mm Tial wastegate for $100, then I bought 440cc injectors from a 90 Talon for $60, then I went to my local junkyard and bought a used T3 from a Dodge Daytona for $50, I bought a rebuild kit and rebuilt it myself for $100, I bought a used ZDyne Gold SECU for $500, I bought an Ebay intercooler for $150, I made charge pipes from a couple of cold air intakes I had lying around, then my friend gave me a T4 turbo from a school bus that he had lying around that needed rebuilt so I took the T4 exhaust wheel and shaft and exhaust housing and installed my T3 intake wheel and compressor housing and installed it on the T4 and ported and polished it. Various seals and vacuum lines ran about $50. Then a base tune and dyno testing ran me about $250. Granted I shopped around and planned and researched for about a year before I installed everything and tuned it but it came out nice. I wish I still had pics but like I said it's been 5 years. But anyway, I basically built the whole thing and installed it myself for around $1510. It ran REAL strong on 10 psi on stock internals. But with the right tune you can accomplish almost anything.
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