So we did the mpfi swap in my 89 dx hatch. Everything is fine except i cant get rid of air coming out of my coolant bleeder. Which is also causing my idle surge issue, i believe? I have switched iacs and bled coolant for days but its not stopping. We did have to block off one coolant port by crimping a tube that was coming off the intake but it was one that was extra and not needed. I did not have this prob before the mpfi swap. HELP

btw this is my 4th mpfi swap, never had one take this long to settle the idle. gotta be aomething causing it.

 

i need more detail any trouble codes at all i done a tone of dpfi to mpfi. so let me know?

 

no codes, surging idle like they all do. in between shifts rpm takes awhile to come down. open the coolant bleeder and lots of air bubbles coming out constantly.
used what i believe to be civic or crx si intake mani,had a extra coolant port on back of intake that we capped off. we crimped a peice of tubing which i guess could be the culprit but if air was getting in wouldnt coolant leak out?

 

This is my way of bleeding the coolant and i promise you not 1 of my honda's overheated after i was done.

1.Start off with the car cold so you can open the radiator cap and leave it off
2.start the car and let it idle
3.add coolant to the radiator itself until its full
4.as it bubbles up keep adding fluid topping it off
5.do this until the car is hot and the coolant starts to flow over the filler neck
6.once the bubbles are gone cap it off while car is still running

Doing it this way forces the air out cause your constantly replacing air with more fluid. Key here is to keep adding coolant always making sure its at the top of the filler neck. And yes its safe and no you won't get burned cause there is no pressure to cause it to burst out. I did it to every honda i work on and works like a charm. I learned it in auto school. The bleeder takes too long and you can actually let air in that way

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alscrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is my way of bleeding the coolant and i promise you not 1 of my honda's overheated after i was done.

1.Start off with the car cold so you can open the radiator cap and leave it off
2.start the car and let it idle
3.add coolant to the radiator itself until its full
4.as it bubbles up keep adding fluid topping it off
5.do this until the car is hot and the coolant starts to flow over the filler neck
6.once the bubbles are gone cap it off while car is still running

Doing it this way forces the air out cause your constantly replacing air with more fluid. Key here is to keep adding coolant always making sure its at the top of the filler neck. And yes its safe and no you won't get burned cause there is no pressure to cause it to burst out. I did it to every honda i work on and works like a charm. I learned it in auto school. The bleeder takes too long and you can actually let air in that way </TD></TR></TABLE>

+1 For this method.

This is the only way to do it and it has worked for me many many many times. It can get a bit messy towards the end, but just keep letting it overflow a little to make sure all the air comes out.

 

cool, thanks alot. i will try it tonight. guess if this doesnt work i will try swapping to the manifold i picked up that doesnt have the extra coolant port.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chirp the 1-2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool, thanks alot. i will try it tonight. guess if this doesnt work i will try swapping to the manifold i picked up that doesnt have the extra coolant port.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Take a pic of the coolant port thats extra. Maybe you are leaving off a hose..any leaks?

 

no leaks and temp gauge is where it should be. looks like a extra port for the a6 crx si motor on the coolant crossover tube.

 

bubbles in coolant? blown head gasket

just read what you said about crimping a coolant port... you really should have just looped it... that might be your problem as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alscrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The bleeder takes too long and you can actually let air in that way </TD></TR></TABLE>

But I would still use the bleeder at least initially.

As for air bubbles, if they are persistent and heavy, you might want to look into your head gasket. One of the MAIN symptoms of a blown head gasket is exhaust gasses in the coolant.

 

it never did this prior to the mpfi swap though

 

NEED TO USE A AIR HOSE THAT CONNECTS THE RADIATOR AND ITS LIKE A SUCTION IT SUCKS THE HOSES TILL THEY START TO SKWEEZ INTO THEM SELVES AND YOU HAVE A BUCKET OF COOLANT READY AND U RELEASE THE PRESSURE AND ALL THE FLUID IS SUCKED IN AND NO AIR BUBBLES!!! I USE TO USE THIS THING ALOT WHEN I USE TO WORK AT THIS SEVICE SHOP!! ITS A GOOD TOOL!!! BUT DAM I CAN REMEMBER THE NAME OF IT!!

 

Do you have that sweet smell from the exhaust??
If the car is not overheating then leave the coolant system alone after you let the air out. If the car is blowing smoke and you see more bubbles than it could be the head gasket.

 

seems like the coolant is dissapearing and the car does blow smoke, but it did that b4 the mpfi and never had the surging idle issue. im gonna try the filler neck deal that people reccomonded tonight. she did idle for a minute today sitting at a light so maybe im getting closer.

 

i have the same problem i think...exept i will fill my coolant all the way up and when i realy push the motor to about 7600 rpm it builds up so much pressuse in the radiator the coolant cap blows coolant out of it all over...but it dont overheat ever it stays below half on the temp gauge....could this be the same issue? if so ill try the cap off and let it run till its full...thanks

 

yeah the leave the cap off and let it run works

Im having a funky problem where my fan turns on when the car is cool (just turned on) and turns off when the car is warmed up

 

well IT WORKED!!!!!!!!!! i have a normal idle finally! thank you everybody

 

very nice alscrx!!!!!!!

 

always use the way you just did it, its the easiest and best way to do it...

i also learned that in auto tech class

 

ACTUALLY

you are supposed to...

open bleeder
fill with coolant until it comes out of bleeder
close bleeder
fill reservoir
let car idle with HVAC **** to HOT (RED) and wait for the cooling fan to come on TWICE
open bleeder
close bleeder
let car cool
check coolant levels
REPEAT once more

 

well its still doing it every once in awhile but it idles alot more than before. i think something with the mani is causing it so i will swap it one day soon. but it did work and im sure without other variables it would be bullitproof.