ok im having a little problem with my shift linkage. the part where i circle is very loose what can i do to fix this problem? this is causing me to shift real bad.

 

im having the same problem with my Avid, anybody have write-up on how to stiffen the bitch up? i figure i can cut the end tabs off (welded nuts in my case) and fill it with urathane but i dunno if it'll work.

 

Thats piece is held together with a non removable double headed pin. And the other end goes into your tranny. When i bought my swap the guy couldn't remove the bitch pin so he cut that double headed pin. When i recieved it i was like this sucks. But i went to home depot and got a perfect size bolt and NYLON LOCK WASHER and 6 months later its still perfect

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alscrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats piece is held together with a non removable double headed pin. And the other end goes into your tranny. When i bought my swap the guy couldn't remove the bitch pin so he cut that double headed pin. When i recieved it i was like this sucks. But i went to home depot and got a perfect size bolt and NYLON LOCK WASHER and 6 months later its still perfect </TD></TR></TABLE>i would still recommend welding the nut onto the bolt, any novice can do this with a cheap welder. you dont want to risk that shift rod falling off and guess where the momentum of the floor is going to send that rod?? but that still doesnt answer the question, how can we stiffen things up? what have others done to get this whoreish linkage back to virgin sensation ?

 

I have done the bolt/locknut deal too, much easier to remove than taking the bitch pin out! it has no play and has been fine for years

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have done the bolt/locknut deal too, much easier to remove than taking the bitch pin out! it has no play and has been fine for years </TD></TR></TABLE>


ditto

 

can you show me some pictures of the bolts and lock washer? i want to how you did this then i can try this out.

 

I have used steering U-joints in the past to replace these entire units. I have a tig welder and it takes some fabrication but the feel of absolutely no play is all worth it.

If anyone is close enough and wants it done I can do the fab for anyone. Just shhh don't tell anyone about it though.

 

The hasport linkage has a lifetime warranty on it.
If you send it to us we will repair it for free and pay the return shipping, if it is not possible to send it to us for whatever reason, we have a repair kit we can send you free of charge.

Keith Gillespie
Hasport Performance

 

i have the avid linkage and when mine got sloppy i just drilled out the pin and put in one of the 12mm headed bolts that came out of my car somewhere and used one of the nuts from the exhaust manifold. now it is super stiff and extremely easy to take off, i dont have to mess with the bitch pin anymore

 

i dont think the op is talking baout the loosness bc of the bitch pin being removed, i think hes talking about where the "ujoint" connects to the shift rodis loose. i would also like to knwo bc i have a lot of free play in my shifter and its not all from worm shift forks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91ed9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think the op is talking baout the loosness bc of the bitch pin being removed, i think hes talking about where the "ujoint" connects to the shift rodis loose. i would also like to knwo bc i have a lot of free play in my shifter and its not all from worm shift forks </TD></TR></TABLE>

that is what i was talking about... i still have the pin in my car, i drilled out the rivet in the u-joint and put a bolt through there. the nice thing is that you can crank down on the bolt and it tightens up all the slop in the u-joint

-jason

 

ah i c i guess you just had to elaborate your explanation a bit

 

yeah, now that i read my first post i even confused myself... sorry

 

The warranty repair I mentioned above includes drilling out the the rivet/bolt and replacing the worn bushings with delrin bushings and replacing the rivet with a new one, if you send it to us, or with a bolt and locknut if we send you the repair/bushing kit. If you have a hasport EF shift linkage with this problem it's free for the asking. I will post the instructions on this thread when I get back to work on monday so you can see what I'm talking about. Replacing the rivet with a bolt and nut and cranking it down isn't a good solution to the problem as the u-joint needs to be able to swivel to work properly.

Keith Gillespie
Hasport Performance

 

The U-joint mod is way way better and should never wear out or fail. It is impossible to explain how nice the shifter feels with the fab. I wish some one else on H-T would try just to know how nice it is.

 

How about you send me one you modded for the 91 ef hatch to a b16a with cable trans, and ill send you my stock one in return, then i will see how it is, and give you glory and power on here on HT.

DEAL? PM me..<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowseeker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The U-joint mod is way way better and should never wear out or fail. It is impossible to explain how nice the shifter feels with the fab. I wish some one else on H-T would try just to know how nice it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Am I paying for shipping to?

 

i wish i could send it but i cant because this is my only car, and i cant have the car be out for a while cause i have to go to school,and work. but how would i use that rebuild kit?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok im having a little problem with my shift linkage. the part where i circle is very loose what can i do to fix this problem? this is causing me to shift real bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Please pm your address or call 602-470-0065
I will send you a linkage repair kit with intstructions free of charge.

 

got my kit today! Thanks!

 

Great service from hasport, why we love to deal with them

 

Now if its from Hasport, you bet that money will be spent on some real products made from quality material. SOLID BILLET is the real deal.

 

ok well i was contacted by an avid member via IM and they stated there shift linkages were also under warenty but i had to send it to them in order to ge it fixed....this is my daily driver so that was out of the question. buuuut heres my solution. i went to lowes searching for about an hour and i finally found the perfect replacement. now those who apose or have any negative comments about my method can kiss my ***, i only spent 7 bucks total and it worked like a charm. absolutley no sloppy play whatsoever. so heres what i bought: exuse my crappy pics
first you want to get what lowes calls "Well Nuts" the dimesnions you want to get are 5/16, 18


next you want to buy some 5/16/18, 2 1/2" bolts, any longer will not work.


Next you want some 5/16/18 nylon lock nuts


now after removing your old linkage you want to modify (trim with some scissors)the old busings like the one in the next pic on the right.


you want to put everything back just like you took it off, which by the way was easy as pie, although avid welds the end of each nut and bolt, it was a breeze to screw off. you want to put one of the old trimmed bushings in between the 2 well nuts. not only will this stiffen the bitch up but you wont have to worry about anything comming loose do to both the lock nut annd the threading in the well nuts. remember to put the plastic washers back on each side so there is no binding, it wouldnt heart to add some extra lube on them also.




Modified by I CRX I at 8:33 PM 1/11/2008

 

Do a write up on this? It would be a perfect FAQ. Good job.