the build consist of wiseco 11:8 pistons
ferrea 1mm os intake, stock exhaust valves..
and skunk2 pro2 cams..

should i clay the motor and check the piston to valve clearance?.. or just crank the motor over to see if i hear clicking.? how much clearance do you guys think i'll have with the cams?

 

Do it rite the 1st time. I don't understand, why you would invest money into a build, just to chance it befor you even drive it.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1891614

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91’ LS-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do it rite the 1st time. I don't understand, why you would invest money into a build, just to chance it befor you even drive it.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1891614</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've been reading that.. just seeing if the pistons were small enough so i don't have to check the p2v clearance

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ohsnapzafingcu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i've been reading that.. just seeing if the pistons were small enough so i don't have to check the p2v clearance </TD></TR></TABLE>

you would actually be checking for v2v clearances in that thread it shows how to go about doing that

 

Why not just check your clearances. It took an extra couple hours before completion of my long block to check for proper clearances. That couple hours is going to equal out to less time/and money if you put the motor together and end up with bent valves. Look at it this way.....would you put crank or rod bearings in without checking clearances. I would hope not.

 

the question is why not check your clearances? you should be checking valve to valve clearance with the +1mm valves and pro 2s as well as all your other clearances.

 

V2V will be a problem with 1mm OS valves.

There is a reason why Skunk2 recommends NOT to use oversized valves with Pro series camshafts. Read the installation instructions that come with Pro2's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">V2V will be a problem with 1mm OS valves.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This problem can be solved using adjustable cam gears except you run into another problem doing this.

This is where "astute" engine building comes into play.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">V2V will be a problem with 1mm OS valves.

There is a reason why Skunk2 recommends NOT to use oversized valves with Pro series camshafts. Read the installation instructions that come with Pro2's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i oversized the valves before i bought the cams .. boo

i've talked to a few people and they said they've ran os valves on the pro2's.
i'm just tryna find a place to do all this.. a local shop quoted me over a grand to do everything i wanted. and that's out of control..

I myself don't have time.

 

oh, and will the supertech 2D springs work with these cams?

 

robert, would that be not being able to degree them to skunk2 specs?

after your comment i thought about it. my cams were degreed in with just checking V2V clearance, i did no cam gear adjustments. you would have to advance the intake cam to clear the oversized valve. how much i dont know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">robert, would that be not being able to degree them to skunk2 specs?

after your comment i thought about it. my cams were degreed in with just checking V2V clearance, i did no cam gear adjustments. you would have to advance the intake cam to clear the oversized valve. how much i dont know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what size valves are u using? and pro2 cams as well?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master of the Universe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This problem can be solved using adjustable cam gears except you run into another problem doing this.

This is where "astute" engine building comes into play.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree that is very possible (and not too difficult) to run said cams with oversized valves.

Advancing the exhaust cam is the simple fix, and is one of the reasons why Skunk2 has the exhaust centerline 5 degrees ahead of a typical Honda exhaust cam. You might be sacraficing your powerband in exchange for more realestate between the valves. And you do not need to worry about P2V with advancing the exhaust cam.

Retarding the intake cam will separate the valves further, but in most cases you start loosing power fast when you retard the intake cam.

If you are comfortable with performing some clearance checks, the setup is very much do-able, but do be careful.

 

pro 2 cams stock sized valves for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I agree that is very possible (and not too difficult) to run said cams with oversized valves.

Advancing the exhaust cam is the simple fix, and is one of the reasons why Skunk2 has the exhaust centerline 5 degrees ahead of a typical Honda exhaust cam. You might be sacraficing your powerband in exchange for more realestate between the valves. And you do not need to worry about P2V with advancing the exhaust cam.

Retarding the intake cam will separate the valves further, but in most cases you start loosing power fast when you retard the intake cam.

If you are comfortable with performing some clearance checks, the setup is very much do-able, but do be careful. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the confidence guy!

it's just a pain now, cuz i'm in need of a car to drive, and it's making me think if i should go ahead and pull the motor and check all the clearances with the cams. or just say screw it and get the car running how it is.

but i did decide today i'm gonna wait to put these cams in. rushing things tend to make it half assed. and that interns is not good. ha

 

how much timing do you guys recommend at startup? target a/f at around 14.7.

i went with stock gsr cams for now untill i can take the motor apart myself and put the cams in properly..

 

16

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ohsnapzafingcu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much timing do you guys recommend at startup? target a/f at around 14.7</TD></TR></TABLE>

My idle table floats around 16.5-18.5. You might want to keep a high timing value around the choke areas, so if your idle falls low the timing will kick it up.

The way I got my car to idle and warmup like stock was by messing with the throttle stop (not the idle adjust screw), until you can just barely see a flashlight shine through the plate. The IACV just cannot keep up with these cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My idle table floats around 16.5-18.5. You might want to keep a high timing value around the choke areas, so if your idle falls low the timing will kick it up.

The way I got my car to idle and warmup like stock was by messing with the throttle stop (not the idle adjust screw), until you can just barely see a flashlight shine through the plate. The IACV just cannot keep up with these cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>


i don't know if u read it but i'm sticking with stock gsr cams untill i get time to put those s2p2's in

 

oh and btw i'm using s300.. isn't the timing in all piggy backs different in some way?

and how much fuel pressure do u guys think i should run? i'll be on nitrous a little after the car gets tuned on the motor(using a dry setup and having s300 compensate the fuel)