Well, since the one page instructions comes with some crappy photos, I snapped some while I was putting the bars on, for anyone else who wants a little better photos to help with their install. Dunno if it will be different for other styles, this is a DC2 install.

1. Verify you have all parts. See pic below. (You will get a parts lists, too.)



2. Remove Black Plastic cover underneath of car.

(No Pic. If you need one, stop doing the install.)

3. Remove Tow Hooks. They are located on the left and right side of the front of the car. 3 bolts holding each one in place.



4. Install main support bar in place of two tow hooks. IMO, it is easier to start with the passanger side since the piping is in the way over there. Short of unscrewing and moving them, you'll thank me later if you start on that side. Do NOT tighten all bolts until you have all 6 atleast threaded in place.

(No pic. See pic above to understand where you put 3 little screws on each side.) Also remember to use the screws provided from Z10.

5. Pick a side, and put in place the U shaped bracket to hold the traction bar. This is used on the shock fork/LCA. (See pic.)



6. PRELOAD the traction bar so there is equal amount of thread on each side. Screw traction bar into U bracket and main support.



7. Redo steps 5 + 6 for the other side. Make sure you preload.

8. Have you set the preload yet? Ok, good. Make sure when settings the bars you turn them both the same direction. I'd suggest 2-3 turns CCW (Counter Clockwise.)

9. Drill a hole for the final support screw. There is a tab coming off the main bar (see pic #1), which needs a 5/16" hole drilled for the screw provided. Per Z10, this is NECESSARY for PROPER operation.

(Sorry, no pic.)

10. You are done, and your setup should look like below... (or similar.)



Any questions, lemme know.

 

Also, from experimenting, I was able to launch upto 7k RPM's without wheel hop. Yes, the tires definately spun, but wheel hop was non-existant.

However, at the track I was able to launch at 5k without wheel hop, anything higher produced a small amount of wheel hop.

Proven results you ask? I consistantly was hitting 2.18+ 60's... In 6 runs last week, my highest 60' was 2.14. My lowest, a mere 2.05. This was prior to my header change, and was the only addition between my 2.18, and 2.05.

 

Does it feel any different on the street? Any benifits for road course drivers?

 

Launchings are about the only difference I've noticed. Others who have them as well, have mentioned they dont notice any difference on a road course. Personally, I've never been on one, so I couldn't tell you.

 

Yes, If you don't install that center bolt, every time you have a forward/backward momentum change you will hear the unit flex and *pop*. That bolt wouldn't fit it was too long, so I just put in a shorter one

Nice write up homeslice.

[e]The other cool thing about these bars is it makes it a lot easier to slide around under the car (for those of us without lifts) hehe


[Modified by sackdz, 12:16 PM 6/29/2002]

 

how much was everything? looks good

 

tractions bar , nice !!
for what models do they make it ?
friend of mine can benefit a lot from it .

 

Go here:
http://www.z10motorsports.com



[Modified by sackdz, 3:01 PM 6/29/2002]

 

A local AZ guy got a Z10 on his R and likes it alot. Says the car drives much better as well, it doesn't track with the road s much when you hit small inconsistencies in the pavement, etc.

 

Interesting.

 

any drawbacks or bad side effects to this mod?

anyone?


[Modified by uncleben, 3:10 AM 6/30/2002]

 

thanks they do make it for EK's .........

 

ttt - see my post 2 messages up...

 

I haven't found any as of yet.