EVAP system code 1457
99 ex coupe f23a1 5spd
I'm throwing code 1457 for the EVAP system and I need some help. The other thing I see is that the car is smetimes difficult to fill with fuel. The pump auto shuts off repeatedly and I have to fill slowly. this has been verified with multiple pumps and fuel stations.
I'm following the steps in the Helms to trouble shoot this problem and I've come to a point where I'm stumped. You have to test the voltage between the EVAP canister vent shut valve and body gound. YOu are supposed to see battery voltage. I see a small voltage. higher than ground, but not 1V. the Helms indicates that if you do not see battery voltage, then there is an open in the wire. I rang the wire out with my multimeter and it is not an open or a short. To verify, I ran a wire from the valve to the fuse where it says the open is, and I still do not see battery voltage. any thoughts on where to go from here?
Modified by jweller at 2:32 PM 12/31/2007
I'm throwing code 1457 for the EVAP system and I need some help. The other thing I see is that the car is smetimes difficult to fill with fuel. The pump auto shuts off repeatedly and I have to fill slowly. this has been verified with multiple pumps and fuel stations.
I'm following the steps in the Helms to trouble shoot this problem and I've come to a point where I'm stumped. You have to test the voltage between the EVAP canister vent shut valve and body gound. YOu are supposed to see battery voltage. I see a small voltage. higher than ground, but not 1V. the Helms indicates that if you do not see battery voltage, then there is an open in the wire. I rang the wire out with my multimeter and it is not an open or a short. To verify, I ran a wire from the valve to the fuse where it says the open is, and I still do not see battery voltage. any thoughts on where to go from here?
Modified by jweller at 2:32 PM 12/31/2007
Did you try replacing the fuse?
Check the fuse connection to see if it is corroded or dirty.
Check to see if the fuse box is dirty or in need of some wire cleaning/maintenance.
If your showing 1v coming from the fuse on the sensor side then it's more than likely that there is a problem before the point you checked. Try checking between the fuse and the 12v source.
Check the fuse connection to see if it is corroded or dirty.
Check to see if the fuse box is dirty or in need of some wire cleaning/maintenance.
If your showing 1v coming from the fuse on the sensor side then it's more than likely that there is a problem before the point you checked. Try checking between the fuse and the 12v source.
I've been sick the last few days so I haven't replied.
I didn't change the fuse but I did pull it and test it. the terminals look clean. the other thing on that fuse is my cruise control, which I verified does still work, So I'm thinking that the fuse is OK.
I didn't change the fuse but I did pull it and test it. the terminals look clean. the other thing on that fuse is my cruise control, which I verified does still work, So I'm thinking that the fuse is OK.
Do you know what the voltage reading is on the positive wire @ your AC switch. If it is battery voltage then there must be something wrong with the junction where the EVAP and AC wires come off the fuse. If they share the terminal in the fuse box maybe the EVAP wire connector is lose or broken off inside the fuse box.
Yeah I've kind of been fearing a problem in hte fusebox, but it's starting to look like that
I guess I should measure voltage accross the fuse, I've just assumed that was good since everything else on the fuse was working.
the good news: I passed emissions. I had to get it done by today so I just reset the codes and drove the the emisssions test station about 4 or 5 miles away. I fully expected to fail but you at least get another 30 days. I guess somehow I got the readyness codes to set in that distance since they hooked the car up to the OBD2 scanner and passed me.
I'm still going to try and fix this, since I'm pretty sure it's why the car is hard to fill with fuel, and thats a real pain in the ***.
I guess I should measure voltage accross the fuse, I've just assumed that was good since everything else on the fuse was working.the good news: I passed emissions. I had to get it done by today so I just reset the codes and drove the the emisssions test station about 4 or 5 miles away. I fully expected to fail but you at least get another 30 days. I guess somehow I got the readyness codes to set in that distance since they hooked the car up to the OBD2 scanner and passed me.
I'm still going to try and fix this, since I'm pretty sure it's why the car is hard to fill with fuel, and thats a real pain in the ***.
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yo i got the same code on mine. something to do with the evap and coil canister
there is a way to turn off the check engine, if i get the check engine off long enough you think i would be able to pass smog cuz i'm kinda in the situation where i need to pass smog
pm me or re post if you ge the chance
need the help
thanks
there is a way to turn off the check engine, if i get the check engine off long enough you think i would be able to pass smog cuz i'm kinda in the situation where i need to pass smog
pm me or re post if you ge the chance
need the help
thanks
More then likely its the CVS valve and canister. When the valve gets stuck it will let the canister fill with fuel and cause this. Dis-connect the hoses at the canister and if there is a strong fuel smell or even fuel that comes out replace them both. This was VERY common on the 98-02 accords.
im throwin the same code on my f23a4 sedan. My car has been running fine for a long time so i havent gotten it fixed yet but I have never had trouble filling up gas so im not sure if the EVAP canister has to do with that. i would check other areas related to the gas tank.
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