I want to see, as well as others, some bored and stroked B series set ups. I mean, aftermarket kits with a larger than 89mm stroke and a larger than 81mm bore. Feel free to include dynos, who the crank/rods are made by, and details on the set-up. thanks.

 

33 views and a bump

 

ok i will throw my bro's old setup on there.

86x95 ls/vtec
AEBS sleeves
95 mm scat crank
Custom arias pistons 15+:1
InlinePro rods
RLZ Head
RLZ stage 3 cams
RMF Header
Inline Pro Manifold
74mm TB

Built by Jeremy Allen @ inline pro . Made 270 +

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2fastGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i will throw my bro's old setup on there.

86x95 ls/vtec
AEBS sleeves
95 mm scat crank
Custom arias pistons 15+:1
InlinePro rods
RLZ Head
RLZ stage 3 cams
RMF Header
Inline Pro Manifold
74mm TB

Built by Jeremy Allen @ inline pro . Made 270 +

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Any 1/4 mile times?

 

what are those plates for on the front of the shock towers?

Sweet setup!

 

my car came with a toda stroked B16, toda A cams, a shitty header, stock intake mani/TB, stock exhaust and a not so great tune. Dyno'd at 180ps with a air filter. Thats roughly 170hp. Also, I was only able to pull to 8k rpm due to the tune.



Now it has a ITR intake/throttle body, cams stayed the same, JGED header, fitzjubo(sp) exhaust, velocity stack/ARC intake, tuned on crome pro by myself, and when the people with the dyno get the sand out of the their *****, ill be back for hopefully a 210ish ps pull.

 

Here's a link to a thread about my old setup : https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1426425

Since then I've had to do a total rebuild of the motor, the nose on the Crower crank broke off leaving me without cam drive 2 broken and 12 bent valves, busted pistons and a damaged head where the resulting damage. The head is currently at RLZ for a makeover and I do have some new parts to test so my hope is to reach 250whp+ on the same dyno.

 

Ahh, man sorry to hear that! Any idea what could have caused that? I read your post and you had a ATI super damper so harmonic vibrations shouldnt have been an issue.
Are you going back with a Crower crank or are you trying somethig different? Im researching 92mm cranks also for my future build.
Good luck with the rebuild

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by simply &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Any 1/4 mile times? </TD></TR></TABLE>

suprisingly we never got a clean run out of it. never could get the car in 4th gear at high rpm. 3 transmissions later he figured it out and blew the motor up in the burnout box of that race. sold it shortly after

went 11.63 @118 going from 3rd- 5th gear

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PyroProblem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are those plates for on the front of the shock towers?

Sweet setup!</TD></TR></TABLE>

limiter straps

 

would you consider a 95mm crank too large for a stock deck height motor in a car that will get some street driving time?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2fastGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

limiter straps</TD></TR></TABLE>

??

 

probably to yank the front suspension down to reduce the squat on luanch. limit the upward travel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bury Your Dead &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would you consider a 95mm crank too large for a stock deck height motor in a car that will get some street driving time?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm sure there are people that have done it. That motor lasted 2 race seasons with only 1 bearing change in between. thats being beat the hell out of. That was a stock deck height motor as well.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboZChatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

do a search for limiter straps. you can read all about them. lol
We dont think they did that much but it was worth a shot

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2fastGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm sure there are people that have done it. That motor lasted 2 race seasons with only 1 bearing change in between. thats being beat the hell out of. That was a stock deck height motor as well.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

interesting. wonder what it would have done at 12:1 cr.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PyroProblem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ahh, man sorry to hear that! Any idea what could have caused that? I read your post and you had a ATI super damper so harmonic vibrations shouldnt have been an issue.
Are you going back with a Crower crank or are you trying somethig different? Im researching 92mm cranks also for my future build.
Good luck with the rebuild </TD></TR></TABLE>

I do believe I ran the timing belt a bit tight, but other than that I'm not sure what might have caused it to break.

I have a Scat Pro Comp crank destined for the rebuild, it looks very nice, and it's also 6+ lbs lighter than the Crower crank.

 

keep the chit chat to a minimum please.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep the chit chat to a minimum please.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and if we are chit chatting about stroked B series motors, and i am trying to soak up some fresh knowledge.....is there a prob? LMK

 

Whos chit chatting? Is it me?
Im just asking questions about a 92mm stroker build. I apologize if i went off topic...
I cant imagine an overtightened timing belt causing a crankshaft nose to break off I mean that crank is 4340 forged steel right?
Do you remember if #1 main bearing looked any different than the rest?
Would you personally suggest a 92mm stroke for a daily driver? (Pondus)
Im stuck between Scat and Crower myself. Then I here about "Go Power" cranks...

Any info on these cranks from anyone is greatly appreciated

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PyroProblem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whos chit chatting? Is it me?
Im just asking questions about a 92mm stroker build. I apologize if i went off topic...
I cant imagine an overtightened timing belt causing a crankshaft nose to break off I mean that crank is 4340 forged steel right?
Do you remember if #1 main bearing looked any different than the rest?
Would you personally suggest a 92mm stroke for a daily driver? (Pondus)
Im stuck between Scat and Crower myself. Then I here about "Go Power" cranks...

Any info on these cranks from anyone is greatly appreciated


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Crower cranks are forged 4340 steel, that's right. I did inspect the bearings closely when tearing it down, and they where much the same all over actually ( this after 6500km), maybe slightly more wear on #1. What I did notice was a lot of wear on the trust bearings, I'm not sure what to read out of that.

As for running a 92mm stroke B-series as a daily, it won't last as long as a stock stroke B18 but if proper care is taken it should last a good amount of miles. But myself, i do not use my ITR for a daily driver anymore, I don't see the point in doing the grocery run in this car, it's way to uncomfortable for that. That's what I have the Civic for.

 

Thanks for sharing the info Pondus
As for the thrust bearings go, a super hard clutch can do that. Too much "thrust" pressure.
Or it could have been too much clearance from get go. (Picture your crank slamming against your thrust washer every time you drop the clutch).Did you spec it out when you were building it. I forget what its supposed to be...

Good luck on the rebuild!

 

86.5 bore
98 Scat Crank

325WHP.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VVV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">86.5 bore
98 Scat Crank

325WHP. </TD></TR></TABLE>

post dyno and details, otherwise this post is worthless. not that i dont believe you, but how does this help?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VVV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">86.5 bore
98 Scat Crank

325WHP. </TD></TR></TABLE>

87mm and 98 Scat Crank. 325.01whp / 236.02tq

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master of the Universe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

87mm and 98 Scat Crank. 325.01whp / 236.02tq

</TD></TR></TABLE>

FAKE

 

Thrust clearance was within spec when built alltough it was a bit on the loose end of the specs, I do have an ATS super single metallic clutch with 1300kg pressure plate so that may be part of the reason.