code 9?
hey guys i just finished my b16 swap in my dx...the wiring has been triple checked and everything is ok there but i still throw code 9 and 22....the 22 im not worried for now but code 9 is cps(cylinder position sensor) which is in the distributor....now my question is could i possibly have a bad dizzy? due to ever thing else checking out ok or are there a few more issues that it could be that im not aware of?
yeah but do you drive yours? does it run right and legit?...im checking my wiring for a final time tommorow and if it checks out ok im gonna put a new dizzy in and ecu to try and trouble shoot cause i might have a bad dizzy....maybe...but im still clueless on this
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you should have investigated a bit, but since you had the spare cash 
measure resistance on C1/C2 (for obd0).. should be 300-600 ohms or something like that. That tells you the electrical picture including wires to the dizzy.
Looking inside tells you the mechanical one.
A verry common issue I've seen is a big distance between the reluctor wheel and the pickup coil. Just losen the bolt, set the gap at 0.5-1mm, tighten it up and it should be OK.
Code 9 is not a major code... the car usually runs fine and doesn't go into limp mode. When you fix it, the only thing I've seen is a bit smoother idle and reving, but no perceivable power gains.
dx->b16? did you check if you have the cables reversed? If resistance and mechanical gap are ok, I'd reverse the pins, reset the ECU and give it a try. It's a quick, stupid, easy, and a no-danger test when your only other option is replacing the dizzy
Good Luck
p.s. btw what ecu are you running? OBD0-vtec ot OBDI?

measure resistance on C1/C2 (for obd0).. should be 300-600 ohms or something like that. That tells you the electrical picture including wires to the dizzy.
Looking inside tells you the mechanical one.
A verry common issue I've seen is a big distance between the reluctor wheel and the pickup coil. Just losen the bolt, set the gap at 0.5-1mm, tighten it up and it should be OK.
Code 9 is not a major code... the car usually runs fine and doesn't go into limp mode. When you fix it, the only thing I've seen is a bit smoother idle and reving, but no perceivable power gains.
dx->b16? did you check if you have the cables reversed? If resistance and mechanical gap are ok, I'd reverse the pins, reset the ECU and give it a try. It's a quick, stupid, easy, and a no-danger test when your only other option is replacing the dizzy
Good Luck
p.s. btw what ecu are you running? OBD0-vtec ot OBDI?
nah i did that already with the c1-c2 stuff and my buddy ohmed it out and it tested ok when i had the old dizzy on there and once i replaced it the code went away and yeah i have a smoother idle...i got a pw0 ecu and just got my headders tapped for the 2 o2 sensors....i dont drive the car much so itll stay in the garage anyway
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mike9571
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jul 9, 2007 09:05 AM




