New rotor and still a brake shake @ high MPHs 40+!?
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From: Garden Grove 714 Orange County, CA, USA
New rotor and still a brake shake @ high MPHs 40+!?
I'm getting a brake shake only @ high MPHs, 40 and over. It seems to becoming from the right side.. so I replaced the rotor thinking it would solve the problem. It didn't. What else could it be? Your experiences and thoughts please.
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From: Emo land, Utah, USA
Re: New rotor and still a brake shake @ high MPHs 40+!? (trooper0641)
Check and see if you're wheels are balanced, Also with the car up in the air wiggle the wheel back and forth and if there is a lot of play you'll need a new wheel bearing.
Lastly if those don't work I would check into getting some hub centric rings for your wheels.
Lastly if those don't work I would check into getting some hub centric rings for your wheels.
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Re: New rotor and still a brake shake @ high MPHs 40+!? (wickedEFguy)
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Re: (wanahonda)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wanahonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would still lubricate the caliper slides, a frozen caliper can warp a rotor very fast.. ive gone thru about 2 rotors because of this</TD></TR></TABLE>
has that bad caliper caused you any kind of brake shake?
has that bad caliper caused you any kind of brake shake?
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From: Chicago
Re: (trooper0641)
Rotors usually warp in pairs not just one at a time, if you think you have warped rotors then replace both front rotors or just get them cut. You should also put on new pads at this time also.
Are you sure it's the front? If you press the brakes and the steering wheel shakes it's the front, if you pull the parking brake lightly when moving and you get vibration then it's the rear brakes.
Did you replace the one rotor with a shitty aftermarket one instead of a good quality honda rotor? I swear aftermarket rotors come prewarped right out of the box. Buy good rotors from the dealership.
Are you sure it's the front? If you press the brakes and the steering wheel shakes it's the front, if you pull the parking brake lightly when moving and you get vibration then it's the rear brakes.
Did you replace the one rotor with a shitty aftermarket one instead of a good quality honda rotor? I swear aftermarket rotors come prewarped right out of the box. Buy good rotors from the dealership.
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Re: (trooper0641)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trooper0641 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
has that bad caliper caused you any kind of brake shake?</TD></TR></TABLE>A seized caliper will warp a rotor from the excess heat. I doubt this is your problem or else you would have noticed a frozen caliper when you changed the rotor.
has that bad caliper caused you any kind of brake shake?</TD></TR></TABLE>A seized caliper will warp a rotor from the excess heat. I doubt this is your problem or else you would have noticed a frozen caliper when you changed the rotor.
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From: Garden Grove 714 Orange County, CA, USA
Re: (snowseeker)
i forgot to mention that it's my front passenger side brakes that is causing the brake shake. i also just swapped brakes from civic to integra. my civic's knuckle/brake setup wasnt causing a shake like this before untill i switched to the integras.
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Re: (Crx Jimmy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">replace the calipers as well, get new rotors and pads</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you know how calipers go bad enough to cause a shake?
do you know how calipers go bad enough to cause a shake?
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From: Chicago
Re: (trooper0641)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trooper0641 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do you know how calipers go bad enough to cause a shake?</TD></TR></TABLE>They seize and overheat the rotors. Unless they are seized then don't bother replacing the calipers if they are still in working order.
Check the slide pins and see if they still move and make sure they are greased. Compress the caliper piston and make sure it will still move in when compressed.
Your first mistake was replacing only one rotor. You should have either had both rotors cut or replaced both at the same time with new pads. If you still had a vibration while braking after that then we could narrow it down further.
It does only vibrate when stopping correct?
do you know how calipers go bad enough to cause a shake?</TD></TR></TABLE>They seize and overheat the rotors. Unless they are seized then don't bother replacing the calipers if they are still in working order.
Check the slide pins and see if they still move and make sure they are greased. Compress the caliper piston and make sure it will still move in when compressed.
Your first mistake was replacing only one rotor. You should have either had both rotors cut or replaced both at the same time with new pads. If you still had a vibration while braking after that then we could narrow it down further.
It does only vibrate when stopping correct?
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Re: (ILcrxsi1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILcrxsi1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It does only vibrate when stopping correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
it only vibrates when stopping @ higher speeds yes. and it's coming from the right assembly.. only. i can feel the vibration travel from the brakes to my pedal to my steering wheel.
It does only vibrate when stopping correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
it only vibrates when stopping @ higher speeds yes. and it's coming from the right assembly.. only. i can feel the vibration travel from the brakes to my pedal to my steering wheel.
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Re: (ILcrxsi1)
Make sure all bolts are tightened to spec.
Check your ball joints.
Is your steering rack loose?
Check your calipers for even braking...if you have uneven, you'll feel it pull to one side under braking.
Check your alignment.
Check your tire wear.
Check your camber...are you lowered?
Make sure your pads have those spacers or whatever the hell they are in there.
Check your bearings.
I could see it being any of the above diagnoses'. Play around with some stuff...double check it all. Take it back to the alignment place if you had one done between the brake swap and now and have them re-check it. They SHOULD do this free... Sometimes, you'll get a friday-5-o-clock job...and it's not accurate. If you didn't get an alignment...you're an idiot for postimg up in here with such a problem before getting an alignment done...
Check your ball joints.
Is your steering rack loose?
Check your calipers for even braking...if you have uneven, you'll feel it pull to one side under braking.
Check your alignment.
Check your tire wear.
Check your camber...are you lowered?
Make sure your pads have those spacers or whatever the hell they are in there.
Check your bearings.
I could see it being any of the above diagnoses'. Play around with some stuff...double check it all. Take it back to the alignment place if you had one done between the brake swap and now and have them re-check it. They SHOULD do this free... Sometimes, you'll get a friday-5-o-clock job...and it's not accurate. If you didn't get an alignment...you're an idiot for postimg up in here with such a problem before getting an alignment done...
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From: Garden Grove 714 Orange County, CA, USA
Re: (JokerTypeR)
of course i got my alignment done right after the civic to integra swap. i also put on a spare camber kit i had laying around for the hell of it. the alignment shop also said that they "maxed" out on adjustments on my camber kit. I was wondering if this combo of manual adjustments to my camber kit could cause a shake like this if it was done improperly.
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From: Chicago
Re: (JokerTypeR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JokerTypeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I could see it being any of the above diagnoses'. Play around with some stuff...double check it all. Take it back to the alignment place if you had one done between the brake swap and now and have them re-check it. They SHOULD do this free... Sometimes, you'll get a friday-5-o-clock job...and it's not accurate. If you didn't get an alignment...you're an idiot for postimg up in here with such a problem before getting an alignment done... </TD></TR></TABLE>improper alignment won't cause a vibration. Fucked up tires from a shitty alignment can cause a vibration. Alignment definetly won't cause a brake only vibration.
OP I've never heard of anyone in my life that could tell which side their vibration was coming from when stopping so get that out of your head right now. Do yourself a favor follow this guide for me.
1. remove both rotors
2. take rotors to nearest brake shop and have both resurfaced this should cost a total of $20
3. check hubs for rust buildup before you put rotors back on, if their is a **** ton of rust your rotors might not be seating right.
4. if those are clear of exessive rust then install freshly cut rotors and test drive.
I could see it being any of the above diagnoses'. Play around with some stuff...double check it all. Take it back to the alignment place if you had one done between the brake swap and now and have them re-check it. They SHOULD do this free... Sometimes, you'll get a friday-5-o-clock job...and it's not accurate. If you didn't get an alignment...you're an idiot for postimg up in here with such a problem before getting an alignment done...
</TD></TR></TABLE>improper alignment won't cause a vibration. Fucked up tires from a shitty alignment can cause a vibration. Alignment definetly won't cause a brake only vibration. OP I've never heard of anyone in my life that could tell which side their vibration was coming from when stopping so get that out of your head right now. Do yourself a favor follow this guide for me.
1. remove both rotors
2. take rotors to nearest brake shop and have both resurfaced this should cost a total of $20
3. check hubs for rust buildup before you put rotors back on, if their is a **** ton of rust your rotors might not be seating right.
4. if those are clear of exessive rust then install freshly cut rotors and test drive.
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Re: (HT Chaplain)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HT Chaplain »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bad calipers
</TD></TR></TABLE>If you tell me physically how, I will believe you. But until then this option is ruled out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>If you tell me physically how, I will believe you. But until then this option is ruled out.
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From: Chicago
Re: (ILcrxsi1)
As a matter of fact the OP has multiple threads on this same subject and is getting all kinds of answers from motor mounts to axles to shocks.
The fact of the matter is this, he swaped brakes, now he has a vibration. I bet brakes are the cause, and the OP needs to start by making sure he has two fresh straight rotors mounted correctly on hubs. While that's happening he might as well inspect the calipers too. Not because they are causing a vibration, but because he might as well check them.
The fact of the matter is this, he swaped brakes, now he has a vibration. I bet brakes are the cause, and the OP needs to start by making sure he has two fresh straight rotors mounted correctly on hubs. While that's happening he might as well inspect the calipers too. Not because they are causing a vibration, but because he might as well check them.
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Re: (Crx Jimmy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">replace the calipers as well, get new rotors and pads</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: (ILcrxsi1)
ive always had one rotor warp at a time, turned out to be a messed up caliper on my front right side, i went thru 2 rotors because of that, but yah i would swap out the fronts at the same time anyway..
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Re: (ILcrxsi1)
oh yah its very noticible especially over 70mph, it makes the wheel shake too.. you cant race with a rotor like that, swap it out with a good "real" brembo, not the Oe drilled brembo stuff on ebay..
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Re: (wanahonda)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wanahonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yah its very noticible especially over 70mph, it makes the wheel shake too.. you cant race with a rotor like that, swap it out with a good "real" brembo, not the Oe drilled brembo stuff on ebay..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why replace with brembo when the OEM stuff and good pads are all you really need? With the advances in pad materials you can use non vented rotors and still have just as good of braking.
Why replace with brembo when the OEM stuff and good pads are all you really need? With the advances in pad materials you can use non vented rotors and still have just as good of braking.