Ok, I have a very tough decision on my hands and I need some opinions.

My friend picked up a gutted superior blue 91 EF hatch with an LS swap.
I have a 89 superior blue EF hatch myself. I also have a FRESH B20B swap I am about to put in as soon as I get my axles.

What does he do? He offers me the WHOLE car (LS swap and all) for my B20B swap with my hydro LS trans. He has a 94 EJ he wants to put the swap in because he use to own a B20 EG.

I want to trade badly but I also want to keep my B20 and make an N/A B20/VTEC monster.

Let me know what you would do if you were in my position & possibly reasons behind the decision. This is really tough on me.

If I was to get his, I would take the LS out it and put it into mine and throw my VTEC head on it. I would also swap out the interior & bumper. Swap out my suspension for his.

Here's his EF:

- 90 Civic Hatch
- 138k on body 80k on the motor
- Blue

- LS Swap OBD1
- Ground Control coil-overs
- 2.5 Exhaust
- New clutch
- Battery relocated to the back
- Interior is gutted.

- Overall the car is quick. (he isn't lying when he says it but not as quick as a b20)









Here is my EF:





The B20: (RMF header not included)

 

If you'd live closer Id say, buy my Si hatch car harness, swap that in, get your b series mount kit with hydro adapter and swap it in yours. Why take someone elses car that they beat and had fun with?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sirtef9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you'd live closer Id say, buy my Si hatch car harness, swap that in, get your b series mount kit with hydro adapter and swap it in yours. Why take someone elses car that they beat and had fun with?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Naw, the car hasn't been beaten on. I've riden in it. It's a pretty strong LS.

I already have my mounts and a B17 (GSR cable) trans. His car already has a B16 cable trans. He will be getting a hydro LS that I have on the motor already for when I had a 95 coupe that I sold recently.

 

if u gonna use it for daily, b18&gt;b20.. IMO, dont waste money on gas.

 

It will not be a daily.

 

remember there's always a catch.

 

Really do whatever you want both motors have pros and cons. It is your car it is up to YOU to decided what to do with it not up to us.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigDare23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">remember there's always a catch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What would that be? He's my friend, not a random person on the forums. I know his situation and how bad he misses his B20 hatch.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Really do whatever you want both motors have pros and cons. It is your car it is up to YOU to decided what to do with it not up to us. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I know that, but I'm trying to get opinions on what would be better in the long stretch and some reasoning behind what decision to make.

 

Remember the cylinder walls on the b20 block are a lot weaker, and are prone to crack. I know what your thinking, they are prone to crack under boost, but I assure this is not the case. I’ve seen them crack and throw rods plenty of times in n/a applications. If your going to go b20, block post the block, it’s cheap and could save you 100’s of bucks later down the road. Also nothing wrong with the LS/Vtec even if your displacement is 1.8. Now a days people make custom kits for the conversions, to where it’s all bolt on now. And dowel pins, are tapered so you don’t need to machine the head for the dowel pins.

 

i would have allready traded. just ask your self how much is the b20 swap worth or how much your in it. and how much is that hatch worth.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dem0nk1d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remember the cylinder walls on the b20 block are a lot weaker, and are prone to crack. I know what your thinking, they are prone to crack under boost, but I assure this is not the case. I’ve seen them crack and throw rods plenty of times in n/a applications. If your going to go b20, block post the block, it’s cheap and could save you 100’s of bucks later down the road. Also nothing wrong with the LS/Vtec even if your displacement is 1.8. Now a days people make custom kits for the conversions, to where it’s all bolt on now. And dowel pins, are tapered so you don’t need to machine the head for the dowel pins.

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Thanks for the input.

But I can honestly say I've never seen a N/A B20/VTEC ever crack a sleeve. I'll keep that into consideration and look into it more.

I can't believe this has 150+ views and only this many replies... C'mon people... post up

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by black0hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would have allready traded. just ask your self how much is the b20 swap worth or how much your in it. and how much is that hatch worth. </TD></TR></TABLE>
He has been offered $1600 for the hatch.

I spent $825 to get the longblock to my door.
I traded my SOHC-T set-up in my old EJ for my buddies blown LS/VTEC. I parted out the LS/VTEC and kept the trans. I'd say I could get $1300 easily for the swap.

 

hey who did the header, that beast is ugly as hell. not in a bad way...

 

Scott @ Millennium Racing Development.
It's a RMF replica that was making the same power a RMF makes.

http://www.millenniumautosports.com/index.php

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dem0nk1d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remember the cylinder walls on the b20 block are a lot weaker, and are prone to crack. I know what your thinking, they are prone to crack under boost, but I assure this is not the case. I’ve seen them crack and throw rods plenty of times in n/a applications. If your going to go b20, block post the block, it’s cheap and could save you 100’s of bucks later down the road. Also nothing wrong with the LS/Vtec even if your displacement is 1.8. Now a days people make custom kits for the conversions, to where it’s all bolt on now. And dowel pins, are tapered so you don’t need to machine the head for the dowel pins.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have never...ever had a cracked sleeve or thrown a rod. The car was constantly road raced, drag raced and daily driven...never an issue.

I have had several of these setups and never had one single problem. You are gonna hear it from a lot of people who have never even owned this setup but, heard from my uncles, cousins, neighbors, girlfriends, roomates brother from another mother that B20vtecs don't last, they suck or they have problems. Of course not everyone can drive properly and not everyone maintains thier vehicles like they should. In the end the only person you gotta worry about making happy...is yourself.

Well I never had an issue with any of my either stock builds or built setups...Good luck. I would stick with your setup and keep building what you already have laid out.

 

Yeah I've never heard of a N/A B20/VTEC cracking a sleeve or anything of that sort but anythings possible.

 

finish the ef and the em1 b4 i die lol..

and quit getting suckered into shitty trades

stay away from dragva

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Koolaid_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">finish the ef and the em1 b4 i die lol..

and quit getting suckered into shitty trades

stay away from dragva </TD></TR></TABLE>

amen to that!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Koolaid_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">finish the ef and the em1 b4 i die lol..

and quit getting suckered into shitty trades

stay away from dragva </TD></TR></TABLE>

BAHAHAHA, I love you Chris.

The EM1 should be finished up as soon as I find some freaking injectors.

The trade is NOT from DragVA. It's a buddy of mine if you read the thread.
Why do you call it a shitty trade?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Simmerman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

BAHAHAHA, I love you Chris.

The EM1 should be finished up as soon as I find some freaking injectors.

The trade is NOT from DragVA. It's a buddy of mine if you read the thread.
Why do you call it a shitty trade?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol i didn't mean that trade was shitty it's just drag va trades are funny

example: trading a dumped ls powered ej1 on slipstreams for a stock slammed ek on gt3's.. gotta love the **** trades

 

Oh well yeah whoever did that was an idiot.

 

trade him. Sell your hatch after you swap all your after market parts over, and buy another B20 with money left over! or keep one as a beater/DD.

 

You have to also keep in mind that the people who always say that the sleeves are week and are prone to cracking are the people who usually dont think they need to get those kind of builds tuned by someone who is competent.

A bad tune will kill your car faster than the driver ever could.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">trade him. Sell your hatch after you swap all your after market parts over, and buy another B20 with money left over! or keep one as a beater/DD.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am shooting to keep my personal EF. It's got stock paint on it and I've have plenty of compliments on it being very mint.

If I was to get his I would pretty much make that shell worth nothing. It would be a 90 w/ a 89 front bumper & 89 interior, blue in color. Bouncy *** coilovers & gutted. I could get maybe $400 for that shell if I tried long enough.

 

if it was me i would do the trade then just buy another b20 for the project cr vtec motor.

 

of course you build a motor, you better get it tunned. LOL or else.