95' LS Integ

in the morning when starting the car at completely cold temp, the car sputters and rpm doesn't reach 1.5 . it'll sputter from 100rpm-200rpm and die if i don't hold the gas pedal down to give it some help. i would have to hold the gas down to 2k for 30sec-1min in order for it to somewhat stay idling. i've just removed the FITV and tighten what was necessary. i've replaced IACV, TB ( came with sensor / fitv ) , fuel filter, spark plugs 2-3months ago. TPS sensor reads .50v with ignition on. also, when the car is fully warmed up to operating temp and i'm at a complete stop the car will idle from 650-750. the needle will move in a very small movements, but within moments the car will drop to 100-200 and sputter. giving it some gas will bring it back to 650-750 and it'll just bounce frome 650-750rpm. there is no CEL. last code it threw was TPS sensor and i just replace the entire TB because it came with the sensor. car doe not have high idle issues.
the bottom hold inside the TB does not suck when it's fully warm so it can't be the FITV, i don't think? car smells like gas even after full warm up, possible exhaust leak?
answer will be VERY much appreciated. please help



Modified by eg6d15 at 12:09 AM 12/28/2007

 

please help

 

Fuel injectors? Idk much about cars but once my dad gets home I can ask him, someone help this guy. Bump for some help

 

get a new motor

 

wish i could help! but i cant think of anything? so i am gonna help you the best i can and bump this to the top so that maybe someone can figure this out for you

BUMP

 

Any CELs? You should set the timing and then the base idle. The car should idle a 450+-50 RPM without the FITV and IACV when the engine is warm. The IACV provides additional air to raise the RPM to 750+-50.

 

no CEL, i just set the idle the other day thanks for the replies.

 

ideas anyone?

 

i'ma replace the FITV. i'll get back with some results. help me out people LOL

 

help anyoneee

 

morning bump


here's a link to the part where the idle drop randomly when it's fully warmed up to temp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vq5WHCMgMM

 

Not sure if you've done it since you didnt say in your post.

Pull the 15amp ECU fuse thats in the engine bay panel. Right next to the battery. Pull the fuse and let stand for one minute. Put fuse back in and start the car....letting it idle for 10 min.

If you have already done that do it again....if that doesnt work it sounds like a FITV problem, get another one and replace it

 

I just noticed your post about the fuse panel, its in the far top left hand corner, it's a blue 15 amp fuse. closest to the fender and firewall

 

update:


just replaced dizzy, rotor, cap , spark plug wire , spark plugs. $350 total . brand new.


when adjusting the timing, it keep jumping back and forth. , what can be causing it?

 

Could be a fuel problem

 

any answers?


when checking timing, the timing lines moves constantly and does not stay.

 

i cant give u a direct answer but i know that if it doesnt warm up all the way that the thermostadt is bad...i just replaced mine hope that helps

 

help

 

Clean Fuel Injectors, check fuel filter. Take it to someone who can monitor all the sensors. That would probably be the easiest way. [b]Try a power balance test. This checks to see if one cylinder is not contributing power. To do this, start your car, and keep it running. Then you pull one spark plug wire at a time. When you pull a wire off, the car should run rough (even rougher than it is). If you pull a wire and the engine speed and performance doesn't change, you have isolated the problem to that cylinder.