I figure this one is self explanatory, but wanted to make sure. Rebuilding a full GSR from head to toe and was looking at these pistons.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Branded by CP:

Part no: SC7135

Block: B18C5

Bore: 3.189

Size: STD

Pin: .827

CH: 1.195

CR: 11.5

Application: 2,3,4 (all motor/nitrous/works with all b series cyl heads)

Ring p/n: CPX3189</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. They are listed for ITR block, but shouldn't they work just the same in GSR with no mofidications? Using gsr crank. I thought this was odd, and mine as well ask beforehand.

2. They also make models in .20 over, my main goal is to be safe, and this is the first honda motor of mine that is being completely rebuilt so I do not want to take chances. I have a good machine shop, but I guess it would all rely on experience and what a stock sleeve GSR block can handle. Think it would be safe to go that route?

3. Any suggestions on decent rods for them? (Will be running ARP rod bolts either way).

4. Also for cams, I am thinking about going Rocket M22X. The head is built, but I do not want to have any clearance issues. I figure with the 11.5 CR pistons and M22x I would have a safer setup than say 12.5 CR pistons with M24x cams.

5. Last but not least, worth running forged pistons over cast versions in all motor setup? I like to be better safe than sorry most of the time.

I appreciate any opinions, pointers, or tips. I have a couple friends that I confide in with their experiences, but I do like to hear everyones opinions as I am a firm believer that you learn something new every day.




Thank you in advance

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OMG THE GOGGLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. They are listed for ITR block, but shouldn't they work just the same in GSR with no mofidications? Using gsr crank. I thought this was odd, and mine as well ask beforehand.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes they will work but the reason why they stated ITR block is because they will give the "rated" compression ratio in that block with that head. If you use them in a GSR block the comp ratio of those pistons will be slightly higher due to the GSR head.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OMG THE GOGGLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. They also make models in .20 over, my main goal is to be safe, and this is the first honda motor of mine that is being completely rebuilt so I do not want to take chances. I have a good machine shop, but I guess it would all rely on experience and what a stock sleeve GSR block can handle. Think it would be safe to go that route?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The general rule is that you only go as big as you need to. If your cylinder walls only need a mild .010" (.25mm) clean up, go with that. If they have deeper scratches and need to be bored .020" (.5mm) oversize to get the proper surface back, you go with .020" oversize pistons.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OMG THE GOGGLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3. Any suggestions on decent rods for them? (Will be running ARP rod bolts either way).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The stock rods are forged and all you'd ever need in an NA application most of the time as well. There are also plenty of OEM pistons to choose from that would give you the compression level you want at a fraction of the price you'd pay for forged pistons and rods.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OMG THE GOGGLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4. Also for cams, I am thinking about going Rocket M22X. The head is built, but I do not want to have any clearance issues. I figure with the 11.5 CR pistons and M22x I would have a safer setup than say 12.5 CR pistons with M24x cams.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's no reason why you'd have clearance issues with either setup unless you didn't check them when assembling the engine. I wouldn't say your setup would be "safer" with the M22x and 11.5 cr, but it would be more practical for tuning or using it as a daily driver.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OMG THE GOGGLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5. Last but not least, worth running forged pistons over cast versions in all motor setup? I like to be better safe than sorry most of the time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. Unless you're running nitrous or boost, it's a waste of money IMO. More often than not, in both engine builds and in life, being safe rather than sorry has more to do with using common sense and your brain, than the parts you buy and just winging it.

Good luck with your build

 

Thanks bud, I plan on having a motor that can handle high rev's, I would say I wouldnt push her more than 8/9k, but if I hit 10, it would still stand strong instead of blowing a hot potato piston into my lap.

Any more opinions or suggestions are always welcome as whenever you plan something, theres always a part or idea you forget.

Oh and I looked more into the "C5 pistons", reason why they are separated from their part number PDF is because they incorporate an X design when they make them, "allowing for smaller pin length, and less material used in the piston making the overall weight lighter, yet still as strong".

 

bumpers

 

00Red_SiR is speaking the truth