New s2k, need some advice/help
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I bought my s2k yesterday and its at 92k now. timing chain hasn't been replaced yet, since it's only 2k over i figured nothing catastrophics gonna happen. (i drove 1k yesterday to get it home) I did ask the owner why he hadn't done the maintenance and he told me that his mech woulda done it at 105k and it'd be safe. And if you're wondering, I got it for under 10k. 
I figured since I'm the new owner and there hasn't been any records of what's been done, i'd start a new record of whats been done for my ownership. I dont have the owner's manual with me, but these are the things im gonna do, please lemme know what you think.
-timing chain
-oil (mobil1 10w30)
-honda MTF
-brakes (my stopping distance isn't as small as i like so i'm gonna upgrade)
-differential fluid (never done this one b4)
-rear tires (20-30% tread left on Kumho's) <-- anyone think i should just get 4 new ones even tho the front 2 have about 70% left? (i measured out just under 3/4") <-- the BS potenzas PP
For those who have information on replacing the timing chain, how hard was it? I'm more familiar with timing belts and FWD hondas, and wondering will there be any surprises? I have hand tools, jacks, and ill be getting a honda manual and a helm's
Also, how hard is it to replace the soft top? Mine being an 01 has the notorious yellow plastic, to the point where i felt the need to go topdown in cold weather to be able to see behind me.
That's all for now until I sell my pig (98 prelude), after that i'll be getting a hardtop and an extra longblock for building. (big plans hehe
)
Edit:
Also, there was a no name CAI included, should I even bother installing it? It has a good filter in the box, I was thinking of just fabbing up an airduct out of aluminum/tin + reinforce it w/ something. (ghetto fabbed w/ materials i have at home)
I also have a (not sure if its authentic) SPOON 2-point strut bar. (its just accross both shock towers) does this even do anything to stiffen rigidity since its just bracing the car as it flexes? I remember reading about the X-brace thing where u had to drop the front suspension to install it, which made more sense. The other thing is that the front has a bar but the rear doesnt, combined with balding tires my s2k is a bit tail happy when ur traveling at higher speeds. should I just invest in a rear sway or is it pretty much even as is (meaning that the front one does little to nothing)
^-- the reason I ask is because i'm planning on getting full coilovers soon along with a X-brace for the front/ a bar in back and this UK spec alignment i'm reading up on for suspension as a whole. MAYBE the 4pt roll bar or w/e thats behind the seats (not the cage where i'm more likely to smash my head onto)
On a financial note, looks like i'll be burning through the money from my prelude rather quickly lol
hardtop 1-2k (depending on color/shape/material/style/condition)
Ap2 bumper(s) (i like the AP2 bumpers, but amber light just looks more honda) 300
Ap2 front lip 150?
tires 300-600 (depending on 2 or 4, and what brand)
alignment 50 (frn who works at a shop can get it on the machine for perfect align)
CF hood/trunk 300+350 = 650
GT series turbo- 400
manifold- 2-400
BOV+ gauges- 150
FMIC-100
oil pan- 100
SS lines/piping/ties/misc.- 200
standalone + tuning- 1500
full coilovers- 1000
bars- 300
already at 6450 MINIMUM to get the s2k where i want, and im sure im missing some stuff.
but of course not all of this will be at once. im hoping this all happens in the 2 years of community college I'll have.
Crappy pics on a 5.0MP kodak camera.



Modified by dagle at 12:02 AM 12/25/2007

I figured since I'm the new owner and there hasn't been any records of what's been done, i'd start a new record of whats been done for my ownership. I dont have the owner's manual with me, but these are the things im gonna do, please lemme know what you think.
-timing chain
-oil (mobil1 10w30)
-honda MTF
-brakes (my stopping distance isn't as small as i like so i'm gonna upgrade)
-differential fluid (never done this one b4)
-rear tires (20-30% tread left on Kumho's) <-- anyone think i should just get 4 new ones even tho the front 2 have about 70% left? (i measured out just under 3/4") <-- the BS potenzas PP
For those who have information on replacing the timing chain, how hard was it? I'm more familiar with timing belts and FWD hondas, and wondering will there be any surprises? I have hand tools, jacks, and ill be getting a honda manual and a helm's
Also, how hard is it to replace the soft top? Mine being an 01 has the notorious yellow plastic, to the point where i felt the need to go topdown in cold weather to be able to see behind me.
That's all for now until I sell my pig (98 prelude), after that i'll be getting a hardtop and an extra longblock for building. (big plans hehe
)Edit:
Also, there was a no name CAI included, should I even bother installing it? It has a good filter in the box, I was thinking of just fabbing up an airduct out of aluminum/tin + reinforce it w/ something. (ghetto fabbed w/ materials i have at home)
I also have a (not sure if its authentic) SPOON 2-point strut bar. (its just accross both shock towers) does this even do anything to stiffen rigidity since its just bracing the car as it flexes? I remember reading about the X-brace thing where u had to drop the front suspension to install it, which made more sense. The other thing is that the front has a bar but the rear doesnt, combined with balding tires my s2k is a bit tail happy when ur traveling at higher speeds. should I just invest in a rear sway or is it pretty much even as is (meaning that the front one does little to nothing)
^-- the reason I ask is because i'm planning on getting full coilovers soon along with a X-brace for the front/ a bar in back and this UK spec alignment i'm reading up on for suspension as a whole. MAYBE the 4pt roll bar or w/e thats behind the seats (not the cage where i'm more likely to smash my head onto)
On a financial note, looks like i'll be burning through the money from my prelude rather quickly lol
hardtop 1-2k (depending on color/shape/material/style/condition)
Ap2 bumper(s) (i like the AP2 bumpers, but amber light just looks more honda) 300
Ap2 front lip 150?
tires 300-600 (depending on 2 or 4, and what brand)
alignment 50 (frn who works at a shop can get it on the machine for perfect align)
CF hood/trunk 300+350 = 650
GT series turbo- 400
manifold- 2-400
BOV+ gauges- 150
FMIC-100
oil pan- 100
SS lines/piping/ties/misc.- 200
standalone + tuning- 1500
full coilovers- 1000
bars- 300
already at 6450 MINIMUM to get the s2k where i want, and im sure im missing some stuff.
but of course not all of this will be at once. im hoping this all happens in the 2 years of community college I'll have.
Crappy pics on a 5.0MP kodak camera.



Modified by dagle at 12:02 AM 12/25/2007
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From: Yeah IM from Jersey, big wup, wanna fight about, it, USA
sell and get an AP2... best upgrade out there
ok ill try and not to be like a father figure, but drive the car first stock and see waht youd like to do with it over time... its hard but dont jump on the mod wagon just yet...
the parts you listed total around 6K or so... for 6K you can do alot with the car so be careful in the stuff that you buy... i think you were a lil too generous for the turbo set up but if you can get the parts for that money good for you...
for 6K you can get:
comptech/turbo set up (used) 3-4K
a nice set of coilovers 1 K
and a good set of rims and tires 1-2 K
although i totally agree that the AP2 bumper and lights are the ****, it doesnt add performance and is a big chunk of money when you look at it... and this is coming from an AP2 owner... i mean you could sell your AP1 stuff and possibly get everything for around 100 or so depending on who you sell/trade to...
since you have all this money my advice is to be patient and wait for good deals... i wasnt patient at all and spent a lot of money very fast... yeah i got what i wanted but i could have a comptech in my car right now if i planned it all out and would have been happier
but other than that welcome and good luck... just learn how to drive it as a lot of new drivers arent used to the RWD and end up oversteering off the road and getting hurt... take it to an empty parking lot and push it a little more each time so you can feel the car give out and then react accordingly... if you need any advice theres a bunch of us that will be more than willing to help you out...
ok ill try and not to be like a father figure, but drive the car first stock and see waht youd like to do with it over time... its hard but dont jump on the mod wagon just yet...
the parts you listed total around 6K or so... for 6K you can do alot with the car so be careful in the stuff that you buy... i think you were a lil too generous for the turbo set up but if you can get the parts for that money good for you...
for 6K you can get:
comptech/turbo set up (used) 3-4K
a nice set of coilovers 1 K
and a good set of rims and tires 1-2 K
although i totally agree that the AP2 bumper and lights are the ****, it doesnt add performance and is a big chunk of money when you look at it... and this is coming from an AP2 owner... i mean you could sell your AP1 stuff and possibly get everything for around 100 or so depending on who you sell/trade to...
since you have all this money my advice is to be patient and wait for good deals... i wasnt patient at all and spent a lot of money very fast... yeah i got what i wanted but i could have a comptech in my car right now if i planned it all out and would have been happier
but other than that welcome and good luck... just learn how to drive it as a lot of new drivers arent used to the RWD and end up oversteering off the road and getting hurt... take it to an empty parking lot and push it a little more each time so you can feel the car give out and then react accordingly... if you need any advice theres a bunch of us that will be more than willing to help you out...
good luck finding a GT turbo for 400 dollars most are over 800
you will also need this stuff if you wanna boost
missing link
fuel pump
injectors
down pipe
exhaust
lets see a of your s2000
you will also need this stuff if you wanna boost
missing link
fuel pump
injectors
down pipe
exhaust
lets see a of your s2000
First...you don't change a timing chain as part of regular maint the way you do a timing belt. About the only thing that occasionally needs replacing is the timing chain tensioner, which is a 15 min job with a $150 part. It may be 200k+ miles before the chain is stretched and needs replacing...if that soon.
Tires...the ap1 is very sensitive to tire choice, pressure and alignment. The oem s02 tires were oversized in the rear..they are actually closer to a 245/45-16. There are not many performance tires left in that size. You can get the OEM s02 tires at TireRack...but they are a bit expensive and while they stick really well in the dry, their wet performace is not so good. If you can't afford the s02, then look at the Hankook RS2 from Discount Tire...it's a decent tire...not quite as sticky as the s02, but much cheaper.
Get all four new tires if you change the brand/model tire. Also consider finding a good set of lightweight 17" rims so you can get a really good set of tires in the future.
Diff oil...make sure you don not buy the diff oil from Honda. They will likely sell you CRV diff oil, which will kill an s2k diff in a few hundred miles. Mobil 1 75w, LE 607 etc are decent gear oils.
Soft top...it is a bitch to replace the whole top. It does not take a lot of skill, but for the first-timer it can take 8-10hrs. If the top isn't ripped, you might consider just replacing the rear plastic. Still a pain, but not as bad as the entire top. If you do decide to replace the whole top you can get a glass rear window conversion from Robbins Tops. Or if you want an oem glass top you will need to get the top frame from a later car.
Swaybars...I'm somewhat surprised that you are missing the rear bar. But that is not the reason the car oversteers...in fact, removing the rear bar would help the rear stick better. Getting a larger than stock rear sway bar is not the way to go...oversteer will increase dramatically. A larger front bar will increase understeer though.
I would not bother with the no-name CAI. Honstly, the stock box is good...it just needs a cold air source. You can pick up a knock-off Spoon snorkle for about $100 shipped.
Strut bars are not very helpful on this car...other than as a handhold when working on the engine.
And I agree that your budget for some of your wish list items are a bit low.
OH...be careful putting the top down in cold weather...below about 55F the plastic can shatter.
Tires...the ap1 is very sensitive to tire choice, pressure and alignment. The oem s02 tires were oversized in the rear..they are actually closer to a 245/45-16. There are not many performance tires left in that size. You can get the OEM s02 tires at TireRack...but they are a bit expensive and while they stick really well in the dry, their wet performace is not so good. If you can't afford the s02, then look at the Hankook RS2 from Discount Tire...it's a decent tire...not quite as sticky as the s02, but much cheaper.
Get all four new tires if you change the brand/model tire. Also consider finding a good set of lightweight 17" rims so you can get a really good set of tires in the future.
Diff oil...make sure you don not buy the diff oil from Honda. They will likely sell you CRV diff oil, which will kill an s2k diff in a few hundred miles. Mobil 1 75w, LE 607 etc are decent gear oils.
Soft top...it is a bitch to replace the whole top. It does not take a lot of skill, but for the first-timer it can take 8-10hrs. If the top isn't ripped, you might consider just replacing the rear plastic. Still a pain, but not as bad as the entire top. If you do decide to replace the whole top you can get a glass rear window conversion from Robbins Tops. Or if you want an oem glass top you will need to get the top frame from a later car.
Swaybars...I'm somewhat surprised that you are missing the rear bar. But that is not the reason the car oversteers...in fact, removing the rear bar would help the rear stick better. Getting a larger than stock rear sway bar is not the way to go...oversteer will increase dramatically. A larger front bar will increase understeer though.
I would not bother with the no-name CAI. Honstly, the stock box is good...it just needs a cold air source. You can pick up a knock-off Spoon snorkle for about $100 shipped.
Strut bars are not very helpful on this car...other than as a handhold when working on the engine.
And I agree that your budget for some of your wish list items are a bit low.
OH...be careful putting the top down in cold weather...below about 55F the plastic can shatter.
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yeah i do know that some parts aren't exactly on price but i have seen the deals before. especially on the turbo, I was thinking of trying to find someone who has a turbo w/ shaft play and i could ship it out for a rebuild. i mean after I sell the lude, I have a lot of the funds already and it's not gonna be a rushed process. this is gonna be over time, anything turbo related would be a slow gathering of parts.
the top does have multiple rips from wear/tear
and about the shattering, im not sure if you're talking about putting the top up/down while driving.. but i stop to put the top/up down? o.O
and as for the missing link, thanks lol I knew i forgot that stuff hehe
now as for the most important advice, DRIVING. Im lucky enough to be in california, where not being 18 means that im eligible to join a defensive driving class for free from professional instructors on a track to fight against Ricers! err street racers. i gave them an email for it since I figured its free, the only thing i could possibly lose is a day of time and some gas. and even if the instructors don't know how to teach me to drive an RWD, i'll have a track to practice on
i'll have pics up when i go to gas station for a refill (im at empty and gas light is on but my brother's accord is blocking my car in) thanks for all the warm welcomes
the top does have multiple rips from wear/tear
and about the shattering, im not sure if you're talking about putting the top up/down while driving.. but i stop to put the top/up down? o.Oand as for the missing link, thanks lol I knew i forgot that stuff hehe

now as for the most important advice, DRIVING. Im lucky enough to be in california, where not being 18 means that im eligible to join a defensive driving class for free from professional instructors on a track to fight against Ricers! err street racers. i gave them an email for it since I figured its free, the only thing i could possibly lose is a day of time and some gas. and even if the instructors don't know how to teach me to drive an RWD, i'll have a track to practice on

i'll have pics up when i go to gas station for a refill (im at empty and gas light is on but my brother's accord is blocking my car in) thanks for all the warm welcomes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dagle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and about the shattering, im not sure if you're talking about putting the top up/down while driving.. but i stop to put the top/up down? o.O</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just putting the top down sitting still when it is cold out will crack a plastic rear window. Many have accidently done that...there is also a warning in the owners manual.
Just putting the top down sitting still when it is cold out will crack a plastic rear window. Many have accidently done that...there is also a warning in the owners manual.
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Thread Starter
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ah thanks for the heads up.
lol another interesting thing is that since both my cars are in my name, my insurance for the s2k SUBTRACTED 12$ from my premium per month.
lol another interesting thing is that since both my cars are in my name, my insurance for the s2k SUBTRACTED 12$ from my premium per month.
You forgot to add in the longblock you're gonna build in the total....
so add another $2000-3000 for that and probably $2000 more onto the total for misc stuff that comes up, cause it always does.
That'll put you over 10k pretty quick. Here's an idea, pay the car off
I bet you'd be a hell of a lot happier with no car payment. Then go on your mod-binge.
Welcome to the family
so add another $2000-3000 for that and probably $2000 more onto the total for misc stuff that comes up, cause it always does.
That'll put you over 10k pretty quick. Here's an idea, pay the car off
I bet you'd be a hell of a lot happier with no car payment. Then go on your mod-binge.
Welcome to the family
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i dont have car payments, i got it as a gift. (i know, i know) i really pushed paying my mom back with the money i will get from the sold prelude, but she insisted that i keep whatever money that is.
its gonna be over the next 1-2 years, im sure the money from the prelude is more than enough to start me off.
I was thinking of buying a block that needs rebuilding to cut down on cost, but at the same time the thought of a warped block or cracked block comes to mind. im gonna try to see if I can get a parts car that got rear-ended solely for the swap.
thanks for the welcome
im still learning how to drive, i had my first near-tap incident parking on a steep hill yesterday. (the catchpoint on the s2 is much higher than on my prelude, slipped my mind and almost rear-ended a parked car)
its gonna be over the next 1-2 years, im sure the money from the prelude is more than enough to start me off.

I was thinking of buying a block that needs rebuilding to cut down on cost, but at the same time the thought of a warped block or cracked block comes to mind. im gonna try to see if I can get a parts car that got rear-ended solely for the swap.
thanks for the welcome
im still learning how to drive, i had my first near-tap incident parking on a steep hill yesterday. (the catchpoint on the s2 is much higher than on my prelude, slipped my mind and almost rear-ended a parked car)
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