I wanted to know which would be better boosted b20 or gsr and which would be better for a daily driver?

 

ls boosted but its your choice it depends on how much ur willing to spend and how much time you're willing to put into it

 

LS boost. if you blow the motor, you can replace the longblock for cheaper then a gsr or b20.

 

I seem notice alot of people choosing LS is it that good and is the transmission good too. I want to be able to beat sti and evo Im tired of seeing people driving these cars and thinkin their the sh&t. What is a good motor swap shop in Cali any advice would be helpful.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmrprojects &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS boost. if you blow the motor, you can replace the longblock for cheaper then a gsr or b20.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2

 

sti and evos are in a whole other class

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaTeKnology &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I seem notice alot of people choosing LS is it that good and is the transmission good too. I want to be able to beat sti and evo Im tired of seeing people driving these cars and thinkin their the sh&t. What is a good motor swap shop in Cali any advice would be helpful.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The LS is a great motor. The transmission may have longer gears over the B16, GSR and ITR trans, but its a good choice for a DD if you are looking for good MPG and also good for boosted applications. If you are looking for a motor in CA I would go with a stock B18b1 to start and get it BAR'd. If you are going to turbo it you are going to need a CARB legal turbo kit to keep it smog legal. Nothing sucks more than paying for a swap that can't be BAR'd.

B18b1 (LS) turbo'd + LS trans =

 

Gsr is a good motor for boost or n/a. But I have to agree that the ls would be a good choice for boost because of the longer geared trans and the fact that i have seen some good horse power numbers on some simple turbo setups. The b20vtec is a good motor but because of the thin cylinder walls you have to be really light on the boost or you will go through bottom ends like crazy. Unless you go through the expense of having the block sleeved and have the rest of the bottom end built. I guess it is really up to you and what you want to do with the car.

just my 2 cents
Kris

 

B18C1 is most attractive, but if you want to consider daily driving as well... go for the LS.

 

when you guyz mean go LS do you mean LS VTEC or just LS Is there much differece with vtec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaTeKnology &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I seem notice alot of people choosing LS is it that good and is the transmission good too.I want to be able to beat sti and evo Im tired of seeing people driving these cars and thinkin their the sh&t. What is a good motor swap shop in Cali any advice would be helpful.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so now you want to be the ****. hahaha

 

ls/vtec/turbo can beat sti and evo stock.

 

just an fyi turbo cars r very rarely reliable daily drivers

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaTeKnology &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you guyz mean go LS do you mean LS VTEC or just LS Is there much differece with vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>

From this post, I can really tell you need to use that big red button in the top right corner. HondaTeKnology, meet the search button. I have a feeling you guys are going to be the best of friends.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec-2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gsr is a good motor for boost or n/a. But I have to agree that the ls would be a good choice for boost because of the longer geared trans and the fact that i have seen some good horse power numbers on some simple turbo setups. The b20vtec is a good motor but because of the thin cylinder walls you have to be really light on the boost or you will go through bottom ends like crazy. Unless you go through the expense of having the block sleeved and have the rest of the bottom end built. I guess it is really up to you and what you want to do with the car.

just my 2 cents
Kris</TD></TR></TABLE>

FAIL, here is your 2 cents back. B20s dont have issue because the cylinder wall are thin. They have problems because they are cast as a monosleeve design when the sleeves shift they crack very easily. Throw a blockguard in there and you will be fine. Even better you can sleeve the motor and not worry about anything. Also upgrade the rod bolts with some ARP bolts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just an fyi turbo cars r very rarely reliable daily drivers</TD></TR></TABLE>

not true.... i have buddies whos cars have been running on 8 psi on a t3/t4 turbo for 75k now and have zero problems besides the required maintnance. once you get above 325whp or 10 psi of boost with a decent size turbo THEN reliablity starts to go down. if boost wasnt dependable would audis, evos, sti's use them stock??? granted they are smaller then what hes going to use but its still boosted.

 

smileycvc You are right, I should have added that as well. But thin cylinder walls don't help .

p.s. thanks for my two cents back! LOL
Kris

 

i agree, i did not specify, my bad but 4 what he is lookin to do it will most likely be around 10 psi and unless you really go through everything and do the research its not very often that u find a reliable turbo car, that wasnt boosted from the factory. i m not sayin that reliable turbo honda's r not out there cause i buddy of mine had a gsr on 10psi daily for over a year then sold it to do sotmhin diff. just the fact that not everyone sits down and does the research and matchs the parts. this is just my opinion

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree, i did not specify, my bad but 4 what he is lookin to do it will most likely be around 10 psi and unless you really go through everything and do the research its not very often that u find a reliable turbo car, that wasnt boosted from the factory. i m not sayin that reliable turbo honda's r not out there cause i buddy of mine had a gsr on 10psi daily for over a year then sold it to do sotmhin diff. just the fact that not everyone sits down and does the research and matchs the parts. this is just my opinion</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

alot of people just bolt on parts and don't know how this particular part affects another or if the part is even good for what they are looking for. But we all start somewhere and some of us learn from our mistakes. But I did forget to mention exactly happens with the b20 under boost or high rpm for (n/a) but the point was made. So I guess the answer to the #1 question is decide what you want to do and research the hell out of it.


Kris