Hello all, recently my car has been not starting, i mean battery compleatly drained...

Started doing some investigating and found that my remote wire is staying on from my hu, i know this because when the car is off, the remote wire is live (the amps stay on) when i unplug the harness from the hu the remote wire is no longer live.

I know there are ways such as switches to make the amps turn off, but i want to remote wire to do its job.

The hu is a panasonic strada DD navi unit. and the car is an 04 wrx (sorry its not a honda, but i think the the fault lies in the hu not the car.)

 

The hu could be broken..

a solution.. that doesn't really solve the problem.. but goes around the problem..

is to install a relay.

This relay would supply the remote +12v signal to the amps, and it would be controlled by the accessory wire...

problem with this setup is that the amps will be on whenever the car is on...and can't be turned off with the hu..

i would check the harness wiring... first, and see if for some reason the remote wire is connected to the memory/constant/battery wire...

 

u have the wrong wire.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i would check the harness wiring... first, and see if for some reason the remote wire is connected to the memory/constant/battery wire[B]...]
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

the wiring is fine, ive gone over it over and over, this is not my first hu install by any means. In fact this one was in for about a month before this happened, i think the internal switch for the hu is broken.

is there any way i can check that? but take my word, the wire harness is solid.

I even tried connecting the remote wire to the powere antenna wire from the hu but that was a no go.

 

What kind of amp do you have?

 

If the problem is the HUs amp control output, [sounds like it] then the "switch" is the problem, the HU will have to be pulled and taken in for repair.
Or the simple solution is just to connect the amps control lead to the HU acc., [red lead, parallel connection] then amp is only on if ign. switch in in acc. or run. 94

BTW, connecting to the power ant. lead on most units will only turn amp on when radio is the source.

 

just hook it up 2 the ign. wire under the dash.

 

That will not work if cars ign. is switched to acc. 94

 

it'll work if u use the true ignition wire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by taltares &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it'll work if u use the true ignition wire.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Tell me how the ignition is going to come on when the car is sitting in acc position. Especialy if it tag to true ignition.

 

true ignition is the only one that will reg. 12v in anyposition but off. put a meter on it to see.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by taltares &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">true ignition is the only one that will reg. 12v in anyposition but off. put a meter on it to see. </TD></TR></TABLE>Actually, you need to put a meter on it, to see "true ign." is hot in run and start only, not in acc., why would you want your ign. on if the engine is off and your only listening to the radio???

Positions...
0 (off) - No power on any outputs from ign, switch.
I (on)- Acc. lead is hot.
II (run)- Ign. and acc. leads are hot.
III (start)- Ign. and start leads are hot.

I would be willing to put money on the fact that EVERY Honda/Acura, [and any other car for that matter] is the same way, and have been for as long as I have been doing car audio/security.

If for some reason your Honda/Acura has power on the true ign. lead when the ign. switch is in acc., have your car checked, there is something wrong. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the problem is the HUs amp control output, [sounds like it] then the "switch" is the problem, the HU will have to be pulled and taken in for repair.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a square trade warranty on it, that should be something that they would cover wouldnt it?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94_DC4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of amp do you have?</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. old school rockford that was hooked up to my front infinity components (100x2 @ 4ohm)
2. ma audio hk-1398 "1600" watt rms... &lt;-- dont believe the number, but it sounds decent.