This may sound like a stupid question but here goes. I've been looking into a cost effective way of doing rods for a F22/F23 hybrid motor. The power I'm looking at is not out of this world. Its in the area of 210-225whp. I've already done the home work on the other parts and talked some to bisi in the past. But with the F23 rod the only real options are to stay stock witch is fine if it will hold out for daily driving or do some sort or after market. The onyl off the shelf ones are the Crower but at around $700 a little price.
What I have found through countless searching is that the rods for the F23 and the K20 are identical in all aspects except for the length. the F23 rod is 5.551" long and the K20 is 5.453" long. Every thing else is exactly the same bearing width, BE end, and PE end. can this .098" of an inch be off set by either/or milling the head and block or off setting the rod bearings if this is even possible, ie Thicker bearing on one side and thinner bearing on the other to come up with the proper tolorances. I have no idea if this is even possible. Any input would be greatly appriciated.

 

As of yet the F23's rods are unique. The big end is the same as the K20A3's but it's still a tenth of an inch too short. Either run an F22 block that has cheaper components or shell out the bones for the Crower or Pauter rods at $700.

You also try to match a cheap B-series long rod to an offset ground F22 crank with a nice F22 piston. It might be a slightly less expensive alternative to the F23 crank/rods:

Eagle's 5.531" B-series rod, plus a 97.5mm offset ground f22 crank plus a 1.181" CH custom forged F22 piston with an .826 wrist pin will all fit in your F22 block.

Pirate

 

Thanks for the help. Looks like I may have to get crower or see if I can get another set of custom ones done at a more affordable price. Or there is still a chance of calling ARP and seeing how much a set of custom rod bolts are or if they have any thing that will work.

 

Honestly, look into a local shop's ability to offset grind the rod journals. If it's less than $400 then I'd get the 97.5mm crank. More torque, more displacement, lighter rod than the F23, and besides you're already looking at a custom piston. There's hardly any difference in the rod ratio too.

What's so great about the F23 crank?

Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What's so great about the F23 crank?

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

I already have the F23 bottom end

Sixsigma had good luck with there F23 bottom end. I may set the clearance on the tight side and ARP bolt the rods and see where we go. If all else fales I can put the stock motor back in and call it a day.

I was also going to use TSX 87MM pistons in the block but revers then for the off set wrist pin. Just having the valve reliefs re-cut.