I have a h22 with h23 crank i can have the crank offset ground to 101 mm stroke and use B-series rods. if i want a 1.75 rs then, i would have to have a 6.9727875 in rod all most 7 inches long rod. can i use a deck plate to get this. is the rod to long and would break

 

what's the point? The 1.75 r/s is not worth that much work. I've heard of 2.5L H22's with a 1.48 r/s (same as stock) No deck plate needed, just really short pistons.

 

does rs matter alot in a build

 

depends on the usage, and no reason to be hung up on the r/s ratio. anything within reason will last and make power.

 

what rs is in reason and why do i get so much hype about b16 rs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h2beg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what rs is in reason and why do i get so much hype about b16 rs</TD></TR></TABLE>


r/s means LONGEVITY to a point. call me for more info
on deck plated h motors.

931 349 8036
harv

 

so does r/s do nothing but make your engine last longer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nitrousballa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


r/s means LONGEVITY to a point. call me for more info
on deck plated h motors.

931 349 8036
harv</TD></TR></TABLE>

1700 ?

 

it will put less load on the cylinder walls. saving lots of wear.
it will also make power at higher rpm easier, but in turn reduces torque on the low end.

when the B20 first hit people went nuts over the potential 1.75r/s 1.8 with a B17 crank.
no one gives a **** now.

 

Why the name change Harv

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h2beg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a h22 with h23 crank i can have the crank offset ground to 101 mm stroke and use B-series rods. if i want a 1.75 rs then, i would have to have a 6.9727875 in rod all most 7 inches long rod. can i use a deck plate to get this. is the rod to long and would break</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lets get to the real deal. What is this motor going to be used for and how handy are you with building engines? There are some modifications needed to have an engine like that last for a bit. Hit up DONF and Harv above. Everyone will share there thought on it but you got to come up with some insight on your own as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team Evol Tyrone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What is this motor going to be used for and how handy are you with building engines? </TD></TR></TABLE>
to let you know where i stand, this is a track only drag engine. how handy am i. I own a tool and die machine shop. have all kinds of manual and cnc machines that i can work with. i can read mics and dial bore gauges. i can do the machining, but i don't have the experience you guys have with bearing clearances and piston clearances .so any advice on the clearances would be nice. i have built my own engine before the have stayed together nicely but, this will be a huge build for me


Modified by h2beg at 3:15 PM 12/19/2007

 

out there where?


Modified by I smell secretions at 7:58 AM 12/19/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h2beg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
to let you know where i stand, this is a track only drag engine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

then you probably want an engine with an R/S ratio as low as possible to get as much "instantaneous" torque as possible.

Gearing only helps so much that a mechanical advantage provides in better fashion.