has anyone installed an AUTOMETER oil pressure gauge on a D16 CRX Si? any answers would be helpful.

 

I haven't put one on that motor, but I can give the following advice:

Don't use bronze/brass adaptors to hang the sending unit off the block. It will crack and spill oil all over the place. Stainless steel adaptors will be fine.

If you must use bronze/brass fittings, you HAVE to use a high quality oil hose that goes from the fitting to the sender, which is probably mounted on the firewall or some other sturdy place.

Bottom line: Brass fittings can't support the sender.

 

I put an electic one in a couple of weeks ago. The sending unit screws into the stock location. The biggest problem was running the wires and making sure everything was hooked up correctly

 

I'll second the brass adapters sucking ballz. I'm just wrapping up a rebuild on an engine that was oil starved for that reason. I sure wish I'd had the same warning.

Now I just need to find some steel parts damn (bsp threads).

Scott

 

Try a hydraulic supply shop.

 

run an oil line off the block...
then connect the line to the sender. Make sure to properly ground the sender and secure it well.

 

THANKS, when you installed the sender from the gauge I'm guessing the factory one is tossed so what happens to the factory dummy light on the dash? does it stay on or does'nt come on at all since there is no factory sender? thanks again

 

I installed on one on B18....use a T and put the sender on one side, the factory switch on the other....then run a small line to the factory outlet. Letting all that weight hang on your motor is BAD news. Find a spot on the firewall. You will thank me later that you did!

don't ask me why I know it is a bad idea to hang it on the block

Cheers'

 

I actually found a SS T fitting and have my OP sender and stock sender mounted right there off the block.

It's a pretty tight fit. The extra knock sensor screwed in through the header support bracket doesn't help either!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by N24RE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....use a T and put the sender on one side, the factory switch on the other....then run a small line to the factory outlet. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay.... It's high time I get on the ball and install oil pressure and oil temperature gauges. I think I understand the above quote, but where's the factory outlet? Anyone got pics? What about oil temp? Where do you run that sensor?

John, who needs "oil gauge installation for dummies" instructions

 

I bought one of these:

http://www.importparts.com/sho...=2536

 

Ahh..... there you go. Looks like what I need.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johng &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but where's the factory outlet?</TD></TR></TABLE>
looking at the back of the block... it is to the left of the oil filter. (black wire)
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johng &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about oil temp?</TD></TR></TABLE>
use the G-ready block or drill/weld a bung into the oil pan.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"></TD></TR></TABLE>

Looking at the pic... I see two small screws, which are presumably where the oil pressure and temp units attach. What is the big hex bolt for?

 

Oil return from a snail?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oil return from a snail?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe so.

Maybe that means i need a snail now?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe that means i need a snail now? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll still roll your Arrrrrr in my econo-hatch.

It's so damn fast, the speedo stopped working.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's so damn fast, the speedo stopped working.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice, it must have super vtack!

 

Thanks for the link RJ. Looks like Nippon Power has them for a little cheaper, so I went that route and have one coming. He said the small holes are set up for Gredy gauge senders, but the gauges read metric. I'll order up autometer parts and make it work.

 

Yes-you MUST buy the adaptor. Autometer has them available. It is 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT. This is the one that will replace the stock sender. Works just fine for use with a mechanical gauge or to run to a "TEE" on the firewall. We used SS AN-3 line btw.

 

I picked up a steel-braided line and adaptors from a guy that I found here:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=764939
About 3/4 of the way down.

 

i just installed one of these yesterday on my meeoter.

us (SM guys) have found that mounting the large autometer sender on the block doesn't last very long from the extended periods of severe vibration it experiences, i would guess it would do the same on a honda motor. our solution is to mount it remotely on the firewall. autometer sells a kit with all the adapters and braided line you need to do this. if this is to be a race car, i would recommend doing the same.

 

so, i have a T installed on my block by the previous owner, the stock sending unit is on one side, the other is plugged. should i remove the T and run a line or can i just run a line from the T to a sender on the firewall without any problems?

 

the T might be for an idiot light (warning light). the warning light requires its own system, sender and all. if the T is plugged and not leaking, it should be fine to leave it there, assuming that you can get the fittings and adapters you need to remotely mount the sender.

personally, i would remove the T. i don't know how it is on honda's, but on the miata the stock location of the sender (where your T is), is a beeyotch to get at. having the T down there just creates another possibility for a leak, not to mention you don't know what kind of condition it is in, how old it is, etc. if you wanted to add a warning light later, you can just add the T back in at the end of your existing line on the firewall, much easier access than where it probably is now.

this is just what i would do, i'm sure others will tell you different.

 

The general opinion is the NOT mount the TEE on the block. Run the braided line to a location on the firewall and connect the senders there. Make sure you allow enough slack in the braided line. Aeroquip and other hosemakers have drawings showing the correct way to do the install of the lines.