my car died the other day and all the lights went dim so i replaced the aLT and tis wasnt the problem then after an hour of checking things i found a poped fuse under the dash for a speed and alternator sensor.
so now i am thinking my old alt is good.
so i put the old back on and the same problem persist.
but no poped fuses or nothing.
then i put the new alt back on and the problem is stil there i dont know what else to check for.
96 ek dx gsr swapped

 

Have you check to see if the alternator is putting out voltage when the car is running? Make sure all grounds are good.

 

well if ur alternator died chances are ur batterys close to dead by now...

 

oh two weeks prior i bought a new battery.\
what cable puts out voltage to the battery.
is it the 10 mm bolt or the connector

 

i checked the voltage on the 10mm bolt and its getting 17 volts.
what else can i be im stumped
could it be anything in the car

 

ive had a check engine light on before but know only the battery light stays on does this mean something.
before when my battery would die the battery light never stayed on by itself.

 

i just found my 80a battery fuse in the fuse panel under the hood could this be the problem.
ill replace the fuse tommorow

 

First you car should not be charging at 17volts. That would be a major problem. Especially if it was not designed to do that. Its either a bad connection or a blown fuse. I would re-check the battery, grounds, alternator, fuses. how do you know the battery fuse is bad. No need to buy a 10 fuse for no reason.

 

beause th big fuse that says 80a is blown meaning the connection in the plastic see through case is broken.
and its for the battery so i think this is the problem .
and what voltage should my alt be putting out

 

12v is what ur power source should be... it well flucuate but the 12v range is what ur after... so yeah replace that blown fuse and give it another shot, should be all set after that....

 

13-14v, 12v min. 17 is not cool.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mcvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">13-14v, 12v min. 17 is not cool.</TD></TR></TABLE>

id still say 14 is kinda high..... any charge systems evlauations that show currents over 13 are considered faulty an should be double checked..

 

okay and just to make sure i should be chcking the voltage from where on the alt

 

With the car running the voltage should read 14.4-14.6 while the car is ideling. With the car off the battery should be resting at 12-12.6. Yes that 80 amp fuse could be causing the problem if it is blown.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatch96y7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay and just to make sure i should be chcking the voltage from where on the alt</TD></TR></TABLE>

your read it at the battery

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

id still say 14 is kinda high..... any charge systems evlauations that show currents over 13 are considered faulty an should be double checked..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Most vehicles do charge over 13v and not to exceed 14.9 like wrx killer said 14-14.5v is where it should be at and when the vehicle is off a fully charged battery is 12.66 and you can subtract 10% for every point like 12.46 would only be 80%. so considering that the alt regulator is built into the alt I would go get that one swapped out and dont get a reman get a new one. then start diagnostics from there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrhatch2356 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Most vehicles do charge over 13v and not to exceed 14.9 like wrx killer said 14-14.5v is where it should be at and when the vehicle is off a fully charged battery is 12.66 and you can subtract 10% for every point like 12.46 would only be 80%. so considering that the alt regulator is built into the alt I would go get that one swapped out and dont get a reman get a new one. then start diagnostics from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you much.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mcvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">13-14v, 12v min. 17 is not cool.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

check o2 sensor for exposed wires!! will cause vss-alt fuse to blow!! FROM EXPERIENCE!!

 

battery fuse was the problem.
i checked votage at the battery and its putting 15.3 volts at 2000 rpm
helms says thats okay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti-eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the car running the voltage should read 14.4-14.6 while the car is ideling. With the car off the battery should be resting at 12-12.6. Yes that 80 amp fuse could be causing the problem if it is blown.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a question if you dont mind. My voltmeter and multimeter is always reading at 14.65 volts at idle or driving no matter how long the trip. It used to fluctuate at 12-12.6 at idle and then jump up to 14.65 when i turned on my headlights or blower, but now it dosent do that. Does that sound like a bad voltage regulator?
Ive had my alternator tested and it passed.