my hood has oxidized paint. and i was wondering if i should sand it down a bit or all the way to the metal.
then primer and spray paint it?
if so, would it be okay for me to spray it while its on the car?

at what point should/can i sand the paint to prevent orange peel? any tips on what type of sandpaper also?

where are points i should look out for when taping up the surroundings..fenders/bumper/windshield etc


the hood still has clearcoat on 80% of it..should i even use Primer?


Modified by BB1LOViN at 12:08 AM 12/16/2007

 

anyone?

 

sup man. or woman. check it out. if you plan on stripping the oxidized hood. I'd have a d.a. ready with some 80 grit sandpaper. follow that with some 180 then prime. but i think thats just makin yourself more work. i personally would just featheredge your repair area until its smoothed out with some 220 grit and go over it all with 320 grit. i'd remove the hood from the vehicle along with the hood squirters before priming. it might save quite a deal on paper and tape.

 

thanks for the reply

but what is a "d.a." and what do u mean by feather edge? as in just sand the oxidized parts and paint in those areas?

 

dual action sander, cheap and effective sander but it runs on 90 psi with 12 cfm aka forget it if you don't have a big **** tank and compressor at 90 psi

he's trying to say you don't have to repaint the whole hood( but it hard to tell without looking at it) but you will have a nightmare paint match it without experience

facts: you can't just paint over the clear right now without expect it to peel off in two days

post a pic dude

 

thanks for explaining

yeahh ill take a pic as soon as it stops raining here in LA

so i can just "featheredge" the spots and try to match it?

would it be better to just sand the whole thing down?

i guess i might just try to feather edge and if it turns out bad il just sand it all down.

 

if you plan on sanding the hood by hand, i suggest using a rubber block. its designed to enable the user with smoother finishes with its flat contour. 3m makes one for about 3-4 bucks.

and as stated above, get some 220 grit and sand until the clearcoat paint layer is smooth. you most probably will sand into the base[color] coat, and others, but thats ok. as you do this, keeping the block flat, discovering your car's number of paint layers, sand until you have each paint layer 2-3 inches in length. you'll know its a good "featheredge" when you run your hand against the repair and you feel nothing but smoothness- like a feather.

then go over every 220 grit scratch with 320 grit. this helps, trust me. mask off then prime.

spray 3-5 coats with each coat ending 3 inches further than last. allow the primer to dry with its recommended dry times on the back of the can. then 400 grit wet sand with that same block until its smooth (no visible rings when dry). and your'e ready to shoot! note: wetsanding requires wetsanding paper and water. the water helps with the lubrication. for best results, you may have to repeat this prime procedure after maybe sanding through the primer.

i never really was an advocate for painting full panels with spraybomb, but if you must, you must. i would recommend a spraybomb that have tips that provide a wider pattern. it only requires a small touch to them too. they work out half decent. i don't mean those graffiti tips- but the tips that provide spray gun-like patterns. theyre already equipped with the can. hit up pepboys. they gotem.

with all that in mind, good luck.

 

thanks a lot bro, it never occured to me but i SHOULD try out the clay bar.

the problem is i have about 4, 4-5" patches not big ones. Should i still use your technique, as u said i should " spray 3-5 coats with each coat ending 3 inches further than last"

should i sand beyond the patches of oxidation?

 

well i was under the impression that your clearcoat had begun to breakdown and flake away. i really don't know what were lookin at here. so try the clay bar. if that works out, great. problem solved.

 

sorry here are some pictures that might help.
it was sprinkling outside



close up of the patches

 

well, i presumed correct. listen, that clay bar of yours isn't going to help. all of that must be sanded out. prime then paint. i don't condone paint malpractice, so that is all. peace.

 

ive never sanded anything with paint before, so if i sand that spot, it would actually become Black paint again?

 

No if you sand it, it's gonna be rough, so new paint can stick on it.