well i didnt do any research like a jackass for prpoer break in and i think i mess up my motor, i used Mobile 1 Synthetic oil with all new rings and all new bearings i've so far put about 400 miles on the motor. Am i screwed or can i switch to non synthetic or is it to late? need advice, im such an idiot. what damage have i done if any..???? But i have not hit boost and i've been taking it real easy on the motor not exceeding 4000 rpm.


Modified by laziebun at 6:13 PM 12/16/2007

 

check your compression...

 

I wouldn't worry about it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by laziebun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i didnt do any research like a jackass for prpoer break in and i think i mess up my motor, i used Mobile 1 Synthetic oil with all new rings and all new bearings i've so far put about 400 miles on the motor. Am i screwed or can i switch to non synthetic or is it to late? need advice, im such an idiot. what damage have i done if any..???? But i have not hit boost and i've been taking it real easy on the motor not exceeding 4000 rpm<U></U>. </TD></TR></TABLE>


you should be driving it hard to break it in. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397

 

Using synthetic for break in is fine. Its an old myth that you need to run non-synthetic for break in. As far as how hard to drive it there are different theories on the proper way to break in an engine. To say that you SHOULD be driving it hard is absurd. Its not a bad method in my opinion but there are many theories for breaking in an engine that have success. Just do some research and go with what your most comfortable with.

 

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-En....aspx

 

So um... why use pricey oil when you're going to have to change it constantly for engine break in?

Thats like using $50 to wipe your *** .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So um... why use pricey oil when you're going to have to change it constantly for engine break in?

Thats like using $50 to wipe your *** .</TD></TR></TABLE>

hehehehe X2

 

i agree. no point in using synthetic on break in but it isnt going to hurt. and as far as the break in proces, id just take it easy for a while. people that just beat the **** out of a motor off the batt are sorta retarded if you ask me. ive built a wide variety of engine as the only kind that i have ever ran the **** out of after a rebuilt was a bike that was ment for heirscrambles , 2-strokes are a li different then 4

 

I always use non-dertergent oil to break it in.

people use everything, i am sure it will be ok. what kind of motor is it? and what is your setup?

 

The point of break-in is to seat your rings, and to a lesser extent, a full-face organic/kevlar clutch. The fastest ways to get the rings seated perfect is to get pressure behind them, and that's done at WOT. Combustion pushes down on the rings, as well as from behind them (goes through gaps and pushes them outwards from behind). That increases pressure, and helps 'seat' them, match them to the cylinder walls & wear down the newly-scored cylinder walls. Synthetic is supposed to be slicker, so it will just take a little longer.

Mostly all race engines are broken in on the dyno, and not lightly either. This also assumes you have a cerametalic/carbon clutch that really doesn't need break-in.

I can't tell you which way is better, but I do have experience watching fresh V8's being broken in on oval tracks. When you have a driver who's done the track a hundred times before, the cars no different besides a fresh motor, yet consistently decreases his lap time (which goes against what his tires should be doing) - you can tell his rings are starting to seat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmfkid250 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i am sure it will be ok. what kind of motor is it? and what is your setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

99 civic
98 gsr
AEBS sleeved 81 mm
srp piston 9:5:1
eagle H beam
arp head studs
780 cc precision
excedy fly wheel
excedy stage 2
inline pro turo mainfold
turbo smart 38mm WG
Hybrid t3/t04 57 trim
thermal 3" catback
all acl bearings
s300
LC-1 wideband


think thats it

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
he builds motorcycles "race" engines but same idea.

 

ive broken in motors pretty hard, and ive also taken it easy for the first 500-1000 miles. both methods have netted me good compression.

 

Take it to the dyno and get it tuned ASAP!!! And pop this stuff in there....... http://passwordjdm.com/Torco-T....aspx i've had very good luck with this product! Good Luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raiden571 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree. no point in using synthetic on break in but it isnt going to hurt. and as far as the break in proces, id just take it easy for a while. people that just beat the **** out of a motor off the batt are sorta retarded if you ask me. ive built a wide variety of engine as the only kind that i have ever ran the **** out of after a rebuilt was a bike that was ment for heirscrambles , 2-strokes are a li different then 4</TD></TR></TABLE>




i beat the **** out of my engine on the dyno and right after the dyno on my 0 mile 400+hp d16..

that was over a year ago and still going strong with no problems.

 

well i just hit boost (5psi) for the first time since the build, and was scared as hell.........but i think im just going to creep the boost here and there until 1000 miles

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by laziebun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i just hit boost (5psi) for the first time since the build, and was scared as hell.........but i think im just going to creep the boost here and there until 1000 miles</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you fully tuned??

did you not read earls post?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397

 

I wouldn't worry about beating on it. I would just make sure the car is tuned then it wouldn't really matter if you beat on it or not.
You don't see those big racing teams breaking in their motors, they put them together and get straight to tuning. Especially those topfuel teams that take apart the motors after every run.

 

well the car was fully tune before i crack the stock sleeves, so i put everything back together with same set up beside AEBS sleeves and ACL bearings.

i kinda figure out why the sleeves crack. picture of calibration shows why i think i hit 16psi and around 8300 rpm when i busted the sleeves and BANG it look like i pop smoke for a 9 line med-a-vac


Modified by laziebun at 6:06 PM 12/16/2007

 

wow, yea thats some high timing there...looks like your tuner just sucks!

what psi were you tuned at and what made you spike?

you didnt have the boost cut set???
s300 is pretty much dummy proof now. it has lean protection, overheating protection, overboost protection, etc etc..

 

I only have a MBC and from what he said he tuned it at 15psi. So do you think that i can just retard some of the timing myself and go from there? or you think i should just lower the boost to 12psi and call it a day until i can get to another tuner closer to me. The Closest one is 4 hours away, and he is the one that tuned the current calibration. I want to head to the Dave at the Whip Factory but he like 8 hours away.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by laziebun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I only have a MBC and from what he said he tuned it at 15psi. So do you think that i can just retard some of the timing myself and go from there? or you think i should just lower the boost to 12psi and call it a day until i can get to another tuner closer to me. The Closest one is 4 hours away, and he is the one that tuned the current calibration. I want to head to the Dave at the Whip Factory but he like 8 hours away. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea you can still set the boost cut so..

boost whatever it was tuned for and fix the last few columns on the timing map.

i took my car to suprdave and he was like 7 hours away for me

 

break in = walmart oil here.

 

was he worth it, how much was your tune?