Does a gunky/oily/dirty/pealing valve cover indicate anything about the motor's health?Pics inside
I went to look at this car and I was just wondering if the motor is allright because it looks like it leaked grease from inside. An old lady owned it so all she did was oil changes pretty much. Could the motor ok? I mean, i reved it and it sounded really sweet and had a mean growl(D16Z6) , i liked it! Started up strong too so it seems healthy but i just wanted to hear what you guys have to say. Thanks!


naw not really just an old motor usally the oil comes from a worn valve cover gasket
Also, what about the rusty metal such as the throttle cable/bolts/ and stuff like that? Will it be a problem?
you said it "leaked grease from the inside"
hehhhh
that's a scary engine bay.
and i don't know what "starts up strong" means
a car on its death bed can start up strong.
drive it around, if it feels good and doesn't smoke too much go for it.
hehhhh
that's a scary engine bay.
and i don't know what "starts up strong" means
a car on its death bed can start up strong.
drive it around, if it feels good and doesn't smoke too much go for it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instrument »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you said it "leaked grease from the inside"
hehhhh
that's a scary engine bay.
and i don't know what "starts up strong" means
a car on its death bed can start up strong.
drive it around, if it feels good and doesn't smoke too much go for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I mean it starts up strong as in it starts up quick and once it does you can hear it really go and stabilize the rpms.
hehhhh
that's a scary engine bay.
and i don't know what "starts up strong" means
a car on its death bed can start up strong.
drive it around, if it feels good and doesn't smoke too much go for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I mean it starts up strong as in it starts up quick and once it does you can hear it really go and stabilize the rpms.
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its not that big of a prob it will be scary when you take any of the bolts off cause they might snap being that rusty but not too big of a deal
Yikes, my friend's 1986 civic hatchback's engine bay looks better than that.
As long as the body is in good shape, i say go with it.
Taking it apart will be a hassle, take more care with removing bolts... and just use alot of wd-40..
d-series are strong engines...and we all know the beating they can take...
eventually you'll want to swap the motor... so the motor only has to last till then
Taking it apart will be a hassle, take more care with removing bolts... and just use alot of wd-40..
d-series are strong engines...and we all know the beating they can take...
eventually you'll want to swap the motor... so the motor only has to last till then
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As long as the body is in good shape, i say go with it.
Taking it apart will be a hassle, take more care with removing bolts... and just use alot of wd-40 (PB Blaster or KROIL would work best)
d-series are strong engines...and we all know the beating they can take...
eventually you'll want to swap the motor... so the motor only has to last till then
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Taking it apart will be a hassle, take more care with removing bolts... and just use alot of wd-40 (PB Blaster or KROIL would work best)
d-series are strong engines...and we all know the beating they can take...
eventually you'll want to swap the motor... so the motor only has to last till then
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
eventually you'll want to swap the motor... so the motor only has to last till then
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was thinking turbo
eventually you'll want to swap the motor... so the motor only has to last till then
</TD></TR></TABLE>I was thinking turbo
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoon93 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldnt turbo that thing
</TD></TR></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TABLE>
depending on the number of miles that thing has had...
and the condition internally.. i don't think you really know if it would survive under boost..
i guess a compression test, to see if there are any leaks... and then before you boost it..
I would inspect the valve-train, the head, and other things.. before bolting on a kit to it...
yeah, pb blaster or kroil is better than wd-40, just couldn't think of the names...
i really should be studying for my finals...
and the condition internally.. i don't think you really know if it would survive under boost..
i guess a compression test, to see if there are any leaks... and then before you boost it..
I would inspect the valve-train, the head, and other things.. before bolting on a kit to it...
yeah, pb blaster or kroil is better than wd-40, just couldn't think of the names...
i really should be studying for my finals...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HBKFanatic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">180,000 miles,1993
</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoon93 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldnt turbo that thing </TD></TR></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoon93 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldnt turbo that thing </TD></TR></TABLE>
I love how it sounds tho! Either way, i wont get it then, thanks for the help guys!
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