Exhaust Manifold Bolt Torque Confusion
I have a copy of the '98 North American service maual and am the owner of an '01 ITR. I have an exhaust leak due to a stripped thread in the head for one of the bolts which hold the exhaust manifold on.
I consulted the service manual and see the following diagram. Now, I don't know if something changed between '98 and '01, but I don't have studs from the head (except 2 locations), nor does that look like my manifold cover. Various photos of other ITR engine bays agree.

My exhaust manifold installation looks like the B18C1 from the manual (and so do many other ITRs I have looked at):

What I am wondering, is what the torque value for the bolt in the red box is? I cannot find this value in the manual. Does anyone know?
And for a bonus, if someone wants to explain the reason for the change in mounting and manifold covers, that would be great.
Thanks.
I consulted the service manual and see the following diagram. Now, I don't know if something changed between '98 and '01, but I don't have studs from the head (except 2 locations), nor does that look like my manifold cover. Various photos of other ITR engine bays agree.

My exhaust manifold installation looks like the B18C1 from the manual (and so do many other ITRs I have looked at):

What I am wondering, is what the torque value for the bolt in the red box is? I cannot find this value in the manual. Does anyone know?
And for a bonus, if someone wants to explain the reason for the change in mounting and manifold covers, that would be great.
Thanks.
All ITR's only have to the two studs. The first gen PR3 heads were fully studded. Personally, I like the studs MUCH better than the bolts. You can order the studs from the dealership and stud the entire head. You are much less like to break a bolt that way.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bradstard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All ITR's only have to the two studs. The first gen PR3 heads were fully studded. Personally, I like the studs MUCH better than the bolts. You can order the studs from the dealership and stud the entire head. You are much less like to break a bolt that way.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its weird that i like only having 2 studs
those nuts seem to get rusted on up here in the north and become a pita to get off... it seems that every car ive worked on had some moron strip those nuts and i had to use vise grips to get them off
its weird that i like only having 2 studs
those nuts seem to get rusted on up here in the north and become a pita to get off... it seems that every car ive worked on had some moron strip those nuts and i had to use vise grips to get them off
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coptzer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
its weird that i like only having 2 studs
those nuts seem to get rusted on up here in the north and become a pita to get off... it seems that every car ive worked on had some moron strip those nuts and i had to use vise grips to get them off</TD></TR></TABLE>
With a stud you can get some fluid in there (pb blaster) better then a bolt. And a bolt head is more likely to snap then a nut on some threads. I would prefer studs over bolts.
its weird that i like only having 2 studs
those nuts seem to get rusted on up here in the north and become a pita to get off... it seems that every car ive worked on had some moron strip those nuts and i had to use vise grips to get them off</TD></TR></TABLE>
With a stud you can get some fluid in there (pb blaster) better then a bolt. And a bolt head is more likely to snap then a nut on some threads. I would prefer studs over bolts.
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