hey guys im new at rr and i have a 95 4dr integra...i and was wondering what spring rate you guys recommand me getting.....

thanks

 

800f/1200r

 

why tho????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">800f/1200r</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL!

Search, guy. This has been covered 10 gillion times.

 

i tryed

 

» Search Results

Your search for spring rate returned 84 results.

You didn't try hard enough. Select "archives" and RR/Autox as the specific forum.

 

Definitely search.

"Best" is a relative term also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM.DEEBO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why tho????</TD></TR></TABLE>
because i said so.

 

I suggest you pick the shocks and springs together because most shocks off the shelf will not be able to handle the high spring rates used for RR. You'll either need to get the shocks revalved or invest in high end shocks that can handle most high spring rates (up to 2,000 lbs) if you're serious about RR.

 

for the newb

Some links I have saved under my name

A thread I started a while back to talk about the rear biased setup
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1915173

Some good talk about dampers, spring rates, tires.. .
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1746209

Don't forget brakes!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1764407

OKAY! LET THIS THREAD DIE PLEASE!!!!!

 

I am having a lot of fun with my civic at the track on 450/600 with koni yellows.


I do want higher rates though for when I start racing.. or can afford some revalved shocks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crazydave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am having a lot of fun with my civic at the track on 450/600 with koni yellows.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I started with and it was bitchen. Just can't bring myself to sell those springs...

 

The best spring rates are the softest spring rate that keeps chassis roll within a reasonable range, minimize chassis bottoming, don't coil bind, and distribute lateral load transfer properly between the front and rear axles. They also need to inspire confidence in the driver. The actual rate of the spring will be different for each driver, each car, each driving style, and each type of driving. Care to revise your question with one that is a little more specific? For example:

My XYZ car is going to be used for X type of racing on Y type of tire. It has Z amount of suspension travel, weighs M lbs. with Q weight distribution. The cg height is W and the shocks are brand K. Any suggestions for a good starting spring rate? I was thinking XXXlbs/in...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My XYZ car is going to be used for X type of racing on Y type of tire. It has Z amount of suspension travel, weighs M lbs. with Q weight distribution. The cg height is W and the shocks are brand K. Any suggestions for a good starting spring rate? I was thinking XXXlbs/in...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, and to make it worse, then asking, "so, what's the answer for R?" The point is, the "best" value is what you like the most - it's subjective. Use the numbers in the above posts as a starting point and go from there. It's like worrying that you like brunettes while other people like blondes. As long as you're happy, don't worry about them.

 

650/800+ with a rear ITR bar and go from there.. .

From experience I feel that anything less than 650s on a 2400lb race weight setup on 225 r comps is not going to be enough rate.. .

search search search and experiment!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The best spring rates are the softest spring rate that keeps chassis roll within a reasonable range, minimize chassis bottoming, don't coil bind, and distribute lateral load transfer properly between the front and rear axles. They also need to inspire confidence in the driver. The actual rate of the spring will be different for each driver, each car, each driving style, and each type of driving. Care to revise your question with one that is a little more specific? For example:

My XYZ car is going to be used for X type of racing on Y type of tire. It has Z amount of suspension travel, weighs M lbs. with Q weight distribution. The cg height is W and the shocks are brand K. Any suggestions for a good starting spring rate? I was thinking XXXlbs/in...</TD></TR></TABLE>


Jeez Solo-x.... is there a letter of the alphabet that you didn't use as a variable....
not every driver is an automotive engineer.

This guy is probablly looking for somewhere to start.

So lets look again at his question...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM.DEEBO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hey guys im new at rr and i have a 95 4dr integra...i and was wondering what spring rate you guys recommand me getting.....
thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are new... try learning how to drive your car on stock springs.
You can throw all the money and parts you want at a car... doesn't mean you are going to be any faster.

that being said....
I found that upgrading my hatch from stock springs to 450/600 was very favorable for the handling of my EG.
Body roll and understeer has significantly reduced but not to a point where I feel out of control.

I also have quite a bit of track and auto-x experience before I did this.

Is 450/600 the best for me and that car... no.. I would like to try 600/800 but I would like to get some more seat time, and some revalved shocks before I do that.

 

I started off with 400 / 600 with my Prelude and did just fine with it, but now use 750 / 600.

When you say that you're new at rr, have you done any HPDEs yet? Is the set-up you're looking for going to be used at HPDEs or are you starting competitive wheel-to-wheel racing? If it's for HPDEs, as said earlier stick with stock.

 

I started with 450/600 with Tokico Illuminas and Now 700/1000 with Koni 2812's.
I love the way the car feels now.

Edo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crazydave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you are new... try learning how to drive your car on stock springs.
You can throw all the money and parts you want at a car... doesn't mean you are going to be any faster.

that being said....
I found that upgrading my hatch from stock springs to 450/600 was very favorable for the handling of my EG.
Body roll and understeer has significantly reduced but not to a point where I feel out of control.

I also have quite a bit of track and auto-x experience before I did this.

Is 450/600 the best for me and that car... no.. I would like to try 600/800 but I would like to get some more seat time, and some revalved shocks before I do that.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with starting stock.

I started with my GSR stock, on rt-615 Azenis. And while it was an understeering pig, it was a fun and educational experience. It was also forgiving.

My 2nd HPDE, I had a Comptech rear swaybar, and went faster as I got more comfortable.

My 3rd HPDE, I had Konis and 400/400 rates as well, and dumped the car off the inside of the track sideways at 90mph, because I failed to floor the throttle after entering a turn a little hot.

Granted, I was also running STS class auto-x as well in this car, and probably did 4 events between each of these HPDEs, so I had a little more experience than just the track. But be careful about making the car looser than the driver is ready for.

 

you guys suck. i wanted to see how long whatever shocks he has would last with 1200in/lb rear springs. and how many times he'd loop it in one session.

 

lol I hate these threads cause they make me want to upgrade my 400/500 to 450/600.

Who wants to trade?

OP, it also depends on the weight of the car. 400/500 has been very good to me in a CX hatch. (2100 with no weight reduction)

 

THANKS

 

THANKS

 

Beleive it or not on a smooth track you can run underdamped and not be as slow as you would expect. The Spec Miata guys do it all the time. I have run 700 and 800lb springs with OS Koni Yellows. It is not hard to drive and yes, I am sure I could go faster with the right shocks. I am getting some shortly.