I've searched for hours and been on the phone with half a dozen businesses and have yet to find a brake line adapter that goes from 10x1.0 female to 1/8 NPT male (I need six of them). I also need a 10x1.0 all female T fitting.

I want to put a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve on a Civic. I've had one put on two of my previous Civics, but they did it by rethreading the Honda fittings. I really don't want to do that when it should be as simple as buying adapters.

Anyone here know of a good solution? Replacing the entire lines is out of the question.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baller status &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've searched for hours and been on the phone with half a dozen businesses and have yet to find a brake line adapter that goes from 10x1.0 female to 1/8 NPT male (I need six of them). I also need a 10x1.0 all female T fitting.

I want to put a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve on a Civic. I've had one put on two of my previous Civics, but they did it by rethreading the Honda fittings. I really don't want to do that when it should be as simple as buying adapters.

Anyone here know of a good solution? Replacing the entire lines is out of the question.</TD></TR></TABLE>


youll probably need to piece some thins for all female T fittings

hit up summitracing.com

i purcahsed some 10X1.0MM fittings yesterday


type in metric fittings !!!

you can also purcahse pre-built brake lines AN on one side and metric on the other in specified lengths

 

You might go buy a couple taps and make some for yourself

 

why do you need 1/8" pipe? when i went from an to factory brake line i used 10x1.00 flare to -3m

 

I buy and machine a variety of metric fittings. I've made the specific fitting you need for a few VW owners looking to add aftermarket brake control valves to their braking systems. I can make what you need for $8 each.

1/8" NPT MALE - M10x1 FEMALE in brass, 1/2" hex

If you or anyone is interested shoot me an email at evan@42draftdesigns.com

 

you dont need those fittings at all. you just cut off the metric ones, slip on some standard ones from autozone and flare the tube. then you use the 3/8-24 to 1/8NPT fitting you can get anywhere and put that into the valve.

 

Called Summit after digging through their online catalog. They don't have them.

I considered converting to AN and then to NPT, but the total cost came out near $100 just for adapters!

I'm not using 1/8 line. I'm talking about 1/8 NPT ports on the Wilwood proportioning valve.

I've tried cutting and sliding new fittings on in the past and it wasn't pretty. The line has to be perfectly straight for several inches. Any small bend and the fitting wont slide on.

These are some great responses. I wish the other forums were this laid back. 2kjettaguy, I'm going to hit you up. Brake lines are supposed to be steel or aluminum though, not brass.

 

You can get -AN to M10x1.0 fittings rather easily, as well as -AN to NPT. So just combine fittings. Easy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baller status &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm not using 1/8 line. I'm talking about 1/8 NPT ports on the Wilwood proportioning valve.

I've tried cutting and sliding new fittings on in the past and it wasn't pretty. The line has to be perfectly straight for several inches. Any small bend and the fitting wont slide on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i know, youre using 3/16" line.
how long are the sections before and after the valve going to be?

if theyre relatively short and theyre all close by, then just buy new line from advance or autozone(they come precut/flared/with fittings in several different lengths). then just cut off one side, take off both standard fittings(they normally dont carry metric fitting lines) put your factory metric fitting on first, thread it into where it was, then bend the lines accordingly till you get to the prop valve, slide one of the standard fittings back on, then flare it, and thread it into the standard-NPT fitting i talked about earlier.

make sure though like you said, to have enough line so the fitting can go on, as well as enough for the flare tool to be able to do its job whenever youre flaring one end.

repeat for the other side and youre done.

i did this exact same thing for my tacoma with the wilwood valve, and thats what i did. i needed to replace about 4 feet of the line, and it was that easy.

 

I'll be re-using the stock lines.

The first time I ever did this, I had to replace one of the rear brake lines. It was a total nightmare.

When I priced all the adapters needed to convert from metric to AN and then to NPT, it came out over $100. The Wilwood proportioning valve only cost me $40.

I appreciate everyone's suggestions. I emailed 2kjettaguy so hopefully he can set me up with some custom made fittings.

 

how long are the lengths of tubing on either side of the valve that youll ultimately end up with?

 

The front lines are T'd together with one of the lines coming off the master cylinder (all female, all metric T). The rear brake lines T together and go to the "out" side of the Wilwood (2 female metric, 1 male 1/8 NPT). Then the other line coming off the master cylinder goes into the "in" side of the Wilwood (metric female to 1/8 NPT male).

So as you can see, I'm not replacing or adding any lines. Just fittings.

The Wilwood has 1/8 NPT female ports. They sell a metric style of their 6 way adjustable proportioning valve, but that would only eliminate one adapter fitting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dfoxengr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how long are the lengths of tubing on either side of the valve that youll ultimately end up with?</TD></TR></TABLE>

before and after the valve

1)from MC to valve=

2)from valve to rear T=

what are the lengths?
im guessing fairly short, probably less than 2 feet. so basically the best way to do it is like i said, where you
"just buy new line from advance or autozone(they come precut/flared/with fittings in several different lengths). then just cut off one side, take off both standard fittings(they normally dont carry metric fitting lines) put your factory metric fitting on first, thread it into where it was, then bend the lines accordingly till you get to the prop valve, slide one of the standard fittings back on, then flare it, and thread it into the standard-NPT fitting i talked about earlier.

make sure though like you said, to have enough line so the fitting can go on, as well as enough for the flare tool to be able to do its job whenever youre flaring one end.

repeat for the other side and youre done."

trust me youre probably making it a ton harder than it needs to be. you dont need to copy all of the bends the factory has in there either. make as few bends as possible to get the lines made.

i wont try to convince you any more, you obviously have your mind set on the more expensive way, that will take much longer since youll have to wait to find special fittings, when you could just use my method and get it done in 2 hours tomorrow, and have readily available fittings incase you overtighten one and it leaks, or something goes wrong and you need to replace fittings again.

good luck though whichever way you choose but im speaking from near exact experience where i used the same part and had to remake a few inches of line with half metric and half standard fittings. the bending isnt rocket science if that is what youre worried about. trust me.

 

Don't get me wrong, I'm not closed off to suggestions. I appreciate your comments, and if I only needed the front brake lines and the master cylinder, then your option would be the best. But the proportioning valve goes in line with the rear brakes, and having replaced a rear brake line before, I wont do it again voluntarily.

The rear brake lines go between the subframe and the chassis, so the subframe has to be dropped. Then they travel the length of the vehicle through several plastic holders that are difficult to work with. At this point it gets even more fun. The lines go up and over the gas tank, so the gas tank and everything associated with it have to come down, along with the exhaust and exhaust heat shields.

Given the choice between replacing the rear lines and not installing the prop valve; I'd rather not replace the prop valve.

I've been speaking with 2kjettaguy and I think he'll be able to hook me up with some custom steel fittings.

 

try ATP turbo they have a good stuff like that

 

i now see that you didnt understand me.
i was not saying replace the entire line as i know that is difficult.
i was hoeever saying, find the closest straight section, cut there, and flare there. then install new line everywhere before that.
probably shouldnt be more than a couple of feet from the MC.

 

i agree with the above poster, if you have to make a union and put the thing where you want it with the best accessibility and appearance.....making a mountain out of molehill here

 

But I need to eliminate the stock proportioning valve.

Also, the factory brake lines are plumbed LF RR, RF LR. I will of course need to re-plumb them LF RF, LR RR.


Modified by baller status at 1:06 PM 12/15/2007

 

Here you go:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/inde...76255
$3.95 each


Modified by blownmiata91 at 6:47 AM 12/23/2007

 

Forgot a decimal there. But good find.

 

baller status

can you help me ??, a have problem in my willwood proportioning valve.