Hi,i need some info to increase compression in my b16a2 block?Can b16b piston fits perfectly my block?Don't hesitate to give the least info.Thanks.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=795421


I searched "ctr piston b16".

 

JDM P30 pistons will bump up compression. How much of an increase are you looking for?

 

11:0.0 C/R.I've already shaved the head by 0.30.

 

According to this:

http://www.clubcivicquebec.com...f.php

You'd have about 13:1CR with CTR pistons in your engine with that milled head, so forget that idea.

JDM B16A pistons look to be a more reasonable 11.5:1CR.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baulum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">11:0.0 C/R.I've already shaved the head by 0.30.</TD></TR></TABLE>

.30 or .030?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

http://www.clubcivicquebec.com...f.php
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I love this calculator. And like was said previously, JDM p30's are probably your best bet OP.

 

if your gonna take it apart to change pistons you might think about just changin to an ls crank and rods with your stock si pistons. it will put you right about 11 cr. or even a gsr crank and rods. plus youll make a hell of a lot more power. and it whouldnt cost much more than pistons and rings

 

Are you telling him to put a GSR/LS crank in a B16 block?

You understand the difference in deck height don't you?

 

yes. you have to use matching rods to the crank then the deck is similar to a type r. hence the name poor mans type r. i took my gsr apart and used stock crank and rods pr3 pistons and a b16 head. with over sized valves and stage 2 blox cams. had 11 compression and 205 hp with **** tunning. never had a valve clearance issue. you are more likely to detonate with b16b pistons in a b16.

 

I have a full JDM bottom end and block 11.5:1 CR i beleive... and love it. just so damn loud. you could just buy a set of forged pistons with upped CR to fit your hole.... just a thought.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by usdm_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your gonna take it apart to change pistons you might think about just changin to an ls crank and rods with your stock si pistons. it will put you right about 11 cr. or even a gsr crank and rods. plus youll make a hell of a lot more power. and it whouldnt cost much more than pistons and rings
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Ok, you're going in the wrong direction here. A Poorman's R is a GSR block/B16 head.

A B16a have a deck height of 203.37mm. A GSR/B16B has a deck height of 212.39, and an LS/B20 has a deck height of 211.84.

An LS crank in a B16 would need custom pistons to work if you used the LS rods as well, and it's been tried, it's deosn't work very well.

As for the original post, get P30s. You'll be good with those.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

.30 or .030?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its .030.The actual C/R on my b16a2 is about 10:7.Actually i'm putting a Spec 3 buddyclub cams,so C/R needs to be increased.what do you think if i remain the piston stock,will the block be able to hold till 9000 rpm with the buddy cams?

 

whatever i told you what i ran. gsr block with b16 pistons. it worked awesome. the only regret i had was not using an ls crank. i dontunderstand what this deck hieght arument is? if you change the crank and rods then it changed the deck hieghts....

 

my buddy illusive on here has a b16 with ctr pistons in it runs fine last time i checked

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by usdm_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whatever i told you what i ran. gsr block with b16 pistons. it worked awesome. the only regret i had was not using an ls crank. i dontunderstand what this deck hieght arument is? if you change the crank and rods then it changed the deck hieghts....</TD></TR></TABLE>

DO YOU NOT UNDERSTAND THAT HE IS ASKING WHAT PISTONS FOR A B16A ENGINE, NOT PISTONS FOR A GS-R BLOCK?!?!?!

Also deck height means how tall the block itself is - has nothing to do with rods/pistons, so changing them doesn't change the deck "hieght" like you say.

Your posts are 100% irrelevant to the topic at hand because he has a 1.6L B16A block, meaning he can't toss in 1.8L rods and crank with custom bushed rods, custom pistons with lower wrist pin locations and ring supports like the old Tech 43 Racing kits had. If he went by your original recommendations he'd have pistons sticking up aout of the cylinder at TDC!!! Reading is fundamental - try it some time.

Stop muddying up his topic with your useless posts.

 

P30s is your best bet, or aftermarket. I wouldn't go with PCTs (CTR). The dome is a little crazy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by usdm_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your gonna take it apart to change pistons you might think about just changin to an ls crank and rods with your stock si pistons. it will put you right about 11 cr. or even a gsr crank and rods. plus youll make a hell of a lot more power. and it whouldnt cost much more than pistons and rings
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please, nobody take this guy's "advice"

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by usdm_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whatever i told you what i ran. gsr block with b16 pistons. it worked awesome. the only regret i had was not using an ls crank. i dontunderstand what this deck hieght arument is? if you change the crank and rods then it changed the deck hieghts....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh no. If you were even able to get LS internals in there, the pistons would stick out of the block like crazy then bye bye valves. Theres no way it will work in a B16A block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by usdm_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whatever i told you what i ran. gsr block with b16 pistons. it worked awesome. the only regret i had was not using an ls crank. i dontunderstand what this deck hieght arument is? if you change the crank and rods then it changed the deck hieghts....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude, what the fvck are you talking about? DECK HEIGHTS? This is not a V block being talked about, hence only one DECK HEIGHT.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by usdm_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whatever i told you what i ran. gsr block with b16 pistons. it worked awesome. the only regret i had was not using an ls crank. i dontunderstand what this deck hieght arument is? if you change the crank and rods then it changed the deck hieghts....</TD></TR></TABLE>

No it doesn't. The deck height is the height of the block itself, not the internals.

For the love of God, nobody listen to this guy.

OP: P30s

/thread

 

whatever.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

DO YOU NOT UNDERSTAND THAT HE IS ASKING WHAT PISTONS FOR A B16A ENGINE, NOT PISTONS FOR A GS-R BLOCK?!?!?!

Also deck height means how tall the block itself is - has nothing to do with rods/pistons, so changing them doesn't change the deck "hieght" like you say.

Your posts are 100% irrelevant to the topic at hand because he has a 1.6L B16A block, meaning he can't toss in 1.8L rods and crank with custom bushed rods, custom pistons with lower wrist pin locations and ring supports like the old Tech 43 Racing kits had. If he went by your original recommendations he'd have pistons sticking up aout of the cylinder at TDC!!! Reading is fundamental - try it some time.

Stop muddying up his topic with your useless posts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I totally agree with you,there is logic in this.So,what if i keep the piston as stock?I don't know if it is safe to run 9500 rpm with stock piston?I'll use buddyclub dual valve springs and steel retainers(KMS).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baulum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I totally agree with you,there is logic in this.So,what if i keep the piston as stock?I don't know if it is safe to run 9500 rpm with stock piston?I'll use buddyclub dual valve springs and steel retainers(KMS).</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. In theory there's nothing that keeps a stock piston from being reliable at 9500rpm.

If anything stock rods and pistons wigh less than forged rods and pistons. Rods would be more of a concern at high rpm like that more so than pistons - bottom end-wise of course.

2. You won't need to rev to 9500rpm - period.

Unless someone can show me some dyno charts of a stock head B16A making any power above 8300rpm or so (if that high) and not dropping off then I'll change my statement, but I have a feeling that you'll never need to rev anywhere near 9000rpm even with crazy cams with stock head/non ported head.

I know it sounds cool to say "I can rev my engine to 9500rpm" but honestly it won't be necessary, and remember people:

Ruins
People's
Motors

 

But explanation on aggressive cams usually depends on high rev,so where do big cams start making power and end power?In my country dyno is missing.Thats the prob for tuners like us.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baulum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But explanation on aggressive cams usually depends on high rev,so where do big cams start making power and end power?In my country dyno is missing.Thats the prob for tuners like us.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, and no. You have to match your cams to your compression. Really big cams make power, yes, but only if you have the compression to push them. Cams like the BC4's make a alot more power, but that's somewhat dependent on the compression of the motor. What happens is a cam that big develops alot of overlap, thus bleeding off some of your motor's static (or dynamic, I don't remember which) compression.

That's why a stock motor with huge cams will essentially make less power than on the stock cams. They bleed off so much compression that the motor loses power. This is normally the case with large cams.

As for your question:

Aggressive cams for VTEC Hondas are made to rev, yes. Why this is is because normally they have larger primaries (non-VTEC lobes) to run off of, and much larger secondaries (VTEC lobes). Which is why alot of the larger cams you see have a higher VTEC engagement point than stock. They run off the primaries longer. As for where they start/stop making power, it all depends on the cam itself.

Please, feel free to double-check my answers. It's been a while since I've explained cams.

 

Thanks for this understandable info.Actually my engine C/R is 10:4 and i've shaved the head by 0:4,so it results to 10:8 approx.If i reach around 11:0 C/R,,will i notice more power?that i believe.Of course with the spec 3 buddy cams.