I am removing the motor in my acura. I am having some trouble removing the axles. I removed the lower ball joint nut, the nut for the steering and the strut fork. I can not seem to get the 32mm axle nut off. I also cant get the hub off of that lower ball joint. I tried beating it with a hammer. It didnt seem to budge. Does anyone know an easy way to seperate them and get the axle nut off. My impact wrench did work on it.

 

For the axle nut, make sure that the hammered divet has been freed. Use the shortest and largest diamter air hose that you have to miminize line losses. Spray those nuts with PB Blaster and let them sit for a day. I personally used a 3' cheater bar.

For the ball joints.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859

 

did you get someone to sit in the car and press the brakes or what? I may need a better gun. Its a cheap one but it has been doing good getting things off like lug nuts, engine mounts, and things like that. I think I am going to try your method with the 3' breaker bar. The shortest hose that I have is 25'. Is that short enough.

Thanks for the vid. I am pretty sure that it will be very helpful tonight when i start working on my car again.

 

I think you need a better gun. Also, make sure your air compressor puts out enough CFM @ 90 psi to run your gun at full power.

For what it's worth, the hammered divot on the axle nut is no match at all for a powerful impact wrench. I use an Ingersoll-Rand impact that puts out about 600 lb-ft in reverse (4.8 CFM @ 90), running off an air compressor that puts out 6+ CFM @ 90, and that thing will zip off my axle nuts with a quickness. I don't even bother to mess with the hammered divot in the nut.

 

oh yea.... as for the axle nut all you have to do is get a screw driver in there pry it back to the normal shape right?

 

The staked axle nut is really only to prevent it from backing off during driving. The required torque to actually get the axle nut off pretty much renders the stake useless.

In other words, the staked portion of the nut should not keep you from getting the nut off.

Also, even though I use my impact to get the axle nuts off, I use my torque wrench to put them back on. When I do that, I just stick a large screwdriver into the cooling vanes of the brake rotor to jam the rotor in place against the brake caliper. Works like a charm.

 

lol... my impact gun is a piece of **** compared to yours. I will purchase a better one hopefully later on today. my compressor only does 5 cfm @ 90 psi. How much did you purchase your gun for and where did you get it? I was looking at a craftsman yesterday for 160 with a 500 ft lbs of torque

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BMO98GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol... my impact gun is a piece of **** compared to yours. I will purchase a better one hopefully later on today. my compressor only does 5 cfm @ 90 psi. How much did you purchase your gun for and where did you get it? I was looking at a craftsman yesterday for 160 with a 500 ft lbs of torque</TD></TR></TABLE>

Got mine from Lowe's for about $110. It has separate forward and reverse torque settings, with reverse having a higher max torque. That means you can always remove something that was tightened with the same impact wrench.

 

That video was a beast I came home and took the axles out of the trans in roughly 5 mins. Now I have to return the old impact gun and get another one. Thanks again...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you need a better gun. Also, make sure your air compressor puts out enough CFM @ 90 psi to run your gun at full power.

For what it's worth, the hammered divot on the axle nut is no match at all for a powerful impact wrench. I use an Ingersoll-Rand impact that puts out about 600 lb-ft in reverse (4.8 CFM @ 90), running off an air compressor that puts out 6+ CFM @ 90, and that thing will zip off my axle nuts with a quickness. I don't even bother to mess with the hammered divot in the nut.</TD></TR></TABLE>


So i finally got a better gun I bouth the ingersoll rand 2132G and it took the nuts off. But now I am having trouble getting the axle out of the hub assembly. It looks as if there is a bit of rust in there. What is the best way to get it out without damaging anything?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BMO98GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


So i finally got a better gun I bouth the ingersoll rand 2132G and it took the nuts off. But now I am having trouble getting the axle out of the hub assembly. It looks as if there is a bit of rust in there. What is the best way to get it out without damaging anything?</TD></TR></TABLE>

WHILE DOING THIS, DO NOT SEPERATE THE INNNER JOINT OF THE AXLE. IT'S VERY EASY TO DO. YOU WILL ONLY HAVE A LIMITED AMOUNT OF STRETCH IN THE AXLE. BE CAREFUL. IT'S A BITCH TO PUT BACK TOGETHER.

Undo the lower ball joint. Undo the tie rod end ball joint. The spindle will be swinging only on the upper ball joint. Pull the spindle towards you A LITTLE BIT. Hit the axle with a hammer gently. It will start coming out. You can twist and turn the spindle as needed to get the axle out.

Once that is done, you can seperate the axle from the trans via prybar. Put a prybar between the trans and the axle race. Push.

For the driver's side, you can take the axle out by prying against the intermediate shaft and axle. Same principle.

Dont let the spindle hang from the upper ball joint. Rest it on the LCA by letting the lower ball joint into it's mounting hole once you have the axle out.

 

I just had to take mine to the shop to take off. I broke 3 breaker bars and said expletive it.

 

I have already gotten the axles out of the trans... I have the axle nut off as well. I tried to beat it out with a hammer. I tried prying it as well. It doesnt seem to budge. It looks to have rust in there, so I am guessing that is why it is so hard to take apart

 

Why dont you just pop the other ball joints off and pull the whole thing back out of the way, then you wont even need2 get the 32mm axle nut out..

 

I've always had good luck using a craftsman 18" (I think) 1/2" drive breaker with a 4' steel pipe and someone inside the car standing on the brakes. It worked when swapped my 14 year old Civic where nothing has ever been removed on it, along with the clutch job on my Integra.