I drove down to the Vehicle Design Institute at Western Washington University in Bellingham yesterday - with the hope that Marshall H. (92TypeR) would be able to help be out w.r.t. some tuning issues I had with the cams I got from him earlier in the year. I had a local Vancouver tuner work on my car a couple of times with results that fell below my expectations considering my build.

My setup: B18C5 - bored & sleeved to 2.0L, Mugen CAI, taper bored TB, IB-spec Type R IM, RC 440's , Skunk2 Pro2 cams, new valvetrain, 11.5:1 CR, forged rods, stock crank, Hytech header and T1R 70mm exhaust.

My initial dyno run at Kinetic Motorsport this year was 186 whp!? Very disappointing.... but after some tuning with Hondata - they were able to get around 200 whp but still well below the output I got with my 1.8L setup and TODA B cams (211 whp/ 136 tq)..... wtf? Time to come up with a different game plan..

Switch to CROME!


Here's some pics:

Installing the wideband 02 meter 11:00 AM



On the Dynomite dyno:



Marshall doing some initial setup:



Sometime during the middle of the day:



Marshall giving some final instructions:




The results:





HUGE thanks to Marshall for working on my car the WHOLE day. I am very happy with the results (although the tq figure stills seems low to me...) . The wheels breaks loose in 2nd gear now.... weeee!

 

Nice man, for the HP the TQ seems pretty normal, glad you're happy with it.

 

Good numbers.

 

Good stuff

 

Why not use an ls/b20 crank while you were building your bottom end?

Luv your car!

 

Impressive. You finally found it. Good work guy's.

 

front end looks sweet.. Extra clean..

 

those seem like pretty good numbers


to other people what whould you change or add to his setup to make more power/torque, because im thinking of doin a simalar setup on my R, and was looking for a little more power then that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01-0720 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those seem like pretty good numbers


to other people what whould you change or add to his setup to make more power/torque, because im thinking of doin a simalar setup on my R, and was looking for a little more power then that</TD></TR></TABLE>

89 crank, headwork are what could be done for more power

220 is plenty of power

 

^ No kidding.

I don't think people realize how much fun that all motor power level is. I'm only shooting for 200whp or so, that's all I want.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only shooting for 200whp or so, that's all I want for now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fixed for you.

BTW, gorgeous R.

Ali

 

QFT

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrinceAli132 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Fixed for you.

BTW, gorgeous R.

Ali</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, nah, I'll build another car to go fast. I just want to be fast enough so a stock '07 Camry won't walk on me.

 

Are you saying a stock 07 Camry walks on you now?

 

weird, typically the Hondata software is easier to tune with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JjuuN R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you saying a stock 07 Camry walks on you now?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was joking Cory.

The fact is: Stock cars that used to be thought of as slow cars, are getting faster, and faster. I'm just trying to keep up with the current standard.

 

marshall knows his ****. big up.

i am curious to know what the difference between the dynomite and dynojet numbers are? i'm only assuming you previous were tuning on a dynojet in BC.

 

07 V6 Camry
0-60 = 5.8 seconds
1/4 mile = 14.3 seconds @ 99 mph
http://www.caranddriver.com/fe....html

/threadjack

Ali

 

^ Exactly, that's my current quarter mile time.

 

 

Glad you are happy with the state of tune. I still think with another couple hours we could have squeezed a few more HP with some cam gear tuning

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GUILOTINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">weird, typically the Hondata software is easier to tune with.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can use a MOTEC M400, but if the tuner can't work with it, you can make more power with an SAFC. As the saying goes, the tuning is in the tuner.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nightrider &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am curious to know what the difference between the dynomite and dynojet numbers are? i'm only assuming you previous were tuning on a dynojet in BC. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know what type of Dyno Jonathan used in B.C., however the baseline shown in the above graph is the best of three runs with the Hondata tune. I then removed the Hondata and started from scratch with CROME. I'm also using an Ostrich 2.0 and HULogger for real-time updating/datalogging.

As for how the power numbers compare to a Dynojet. My car makes 228/151 on the DynoMite dyno, and 227/156 on the DynoJet 248c at Intec. These are SAE corrected numbers BTW.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01-0720 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to other people what whould you change or add to his setup to make more power/torque, because im thinking of doin a simalar setup on my R, and was looking for a little more power then that</TD></TR></TABLE>

Headwork, 2.0L header, could try a bigger cam. With the right components, you can easily make 240whp on an 87.2mm crank on pumpgas. Hell I'm 12 HP away from 240 with a stock intake system.

 

Excellent numbers, and a beautiful car. Props to a fellow Canadian! I'll be in BC in February to go boarding at Revelstoke! BC&gt;Ontario.

Later on down the line, you might want to look at getting the Edelbrock PerformerX intake manifold and get rid of the IB spec. You'll pick up massive numbers with the Performer over the IBspec with your build

 

Very nice God I love the way your R sits.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98 ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Later on down the line, you might want to look at getting the Edelbrock PerformerX intake manifold and get rid of the IB spec. You'll pick up massive numbers with the Performer over the IBspec with your build </TD></TR></TABLE>

Might be true on a 1.8L, but on a 2.0L, stock ITR intake manifolds make more power versus PerformerX manifolds in most areas of the powerband. Being that his is a CNC Ported ITR intake manifold, his restriction is definately not the intake.

ITR intake manifold (red) versus PerformerX (blue) on a 13:1 2.0L w/Pro2's


Taken from: here

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Might be true on a 1.8L, but on a 2.0L, stock ITR intake manifolds make more power versus PerformerX manifolds in most areas of the powerband. Being that his is a CNC Ported ITR intake manifold, his restriction is definately not the intake.

ITR intake manifold (red) versus PerformerX (blue) on a 13:1 2.0L w/Pro2's


Taken from: here</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, didn't know that the 2L would be any different than the 1.8 because the PerformerX absolutely destroys the IBspec on a mildly built 1.8. Learn something new every day

PerformerX (red) vs. IBSpec (blue):


Taken from here:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2012979