Front brakes stuck. 98 DX
I changed my pads and have done so many times but now my brake calipers are sticking and won't let up. I took it around the block to see if it would loosen up but they don't and it's so bad you can smell the pads burning. I don't know what to do. thanks for helping.
no, still using the same fluid. a few months back I changed the brake master cylinder and changed the fluid.
I mean, is it possible that there is too much air in the lines? I gave up on it yesterday and now I've gone back and looked and opened my BMC reservoir and it's filled to the top which has me thinking air. Is that a possibility?
I mean, is it possible that there is too much air in the lines? I gave up on it yesterday and now I've gone back and looked and opened my BMC reservoir and it's filled to the top which has me thinking air. Is that a possibility?
Did you notice anything starnge when you were installing the new pads? I had some that were too thick and the caliper wouldn't release enough.
You can swap in your old pads and see if the caliper releases then. You don't have to drive it that way, just check them when the car is off the ground. In fact, if you keep testing them by driving them, you can warp the rotors from the heat.
If the pads aren't problem, remove them and slowly work the piston in and out, but don't push the pedal enough to pop the piston out of the caliper. Check the spring clips to make sure they're not binding. Remove, clean and lube up the caliper slid pins.
How did the pedal feel on the test drive? Was it spongy, normal or hard?
Spongy means air in the system. Hard could mean the caliper is frozen, the rubber line is internally collapsed or the master is messed up.
You can swap in your old pads and see if the caliper releases then. You don't have to drive it that way, just check them when the car is off the ground. In fact, if you keep testing them by driving them, you can warp the rotors from the heat.
If the pads aren't problem, remove them and slowly work the piston in and out, but don't push the pedal enough to pop the piston out of the caliper. Check the spring clips to make sure they're not binding. Remove, clean and lube up the caliper slid pins.
How did the pedal feel on the test drive? Was it spongy, normal or hard?
Spongy means air in the system. Hard could mean the caliper is frozen, the rubber line is internally collapsed or the master is messed up.
nah, clearance wasn't an issue. I've got it worked out now. I had too much pressure in the lines or something I guess and I bled the brakes again. They're fine now.
Funny you mention that because I first bought some ceramic pads from AutoZone for the DX but were a few mm too thick. I Then bought some from Advance and compared them and they too were too thick. OE Honda pads ftw this time til I put my ITR calipers on. I have to grind them.
Funny you mention that because I first bought some ceramic pads from AutoZone for the DX but were a few mm too thick. I Then bought some from Advance and compared them and they too were too thick. OE Honda pads ftw this time til I put my ITR calipers on. I have to grind them.
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when you change the pads, open the brake fluid cylinder, it will allow the fluid to go up, it will be easy to push the piston without using any clamps or pliers.
then assmeble everything back and try, if not check the thickness of your pads, it has to match the rotor thickness. i would 1st check if your rotors werent changed and match the oem thickness.
then assmeble everything back and try, if not check the thickness of your pads, it has to match the rotor thickness. i would 1st check if your rotors werent changed and match the oem thickness.
i think I have a bad caliper on the passenger side. it's starting to rub a little. the rotors are OE as I have had the car since it was brand new. they've been replaced but replaced with OE rotors. I have some ITR calipers and I'm guessing I might have to install them earlier than I thought. I know you have to grind them down.
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