which is the best CAMBER KIT????
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From: new york
which is the best CAMBER KIT????
im debating on a camber kit for my dc2......im lookin for the front and back combo......but my main concern is finding the best with negative camber.....problem is that i have a 0 offset wheel and looking to see which camber is best........i was looking into ingalls...... plz help me with some suggestions... 
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
In most cases a camber kit is not required. Just an alignment with the toe set to factory specs should be all that's needed, and rotate your tires regularly. Don't waste your money on camber kits and the resulting higher cost of alignments.
Besides, with 0 offset wheels you're going to need all the negative camber you can get to make the top of the tire clear the fender arch.
Besides, with 0 offset wheels you're going to need all the negative camber you can get to make the top of the tire clear the fender arch.
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From: Miami, FL, United States
Re: (EK_B)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I love you Patrick, good thing you beat the n00bs that tell everyone to get "Skunk 2." </TD></TR></TABLE>
i was looking to see that as a response but yea he deff schooled me on the suspension tip. props
i was looking to see that as a response but yea he deff schooled me on the suspension tip. props
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From: Sherman Oaks, CA, United States
Re: which is the best CAMBER KIT???? (BXk24ek9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BXk24ek9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im debating on a camber kit for my dc2......im lookin for the front and back combo......but my main concern is finding the best with negative camber.....problem is that i have a 0 offset wheel and looking to see which camber is best........i was looking into ingalls...... plz help me with some suggestions... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you asking how to get the most negative camber possible, in order to pull the top of the tire in under the fedner?
If thats true, just know what you'll be doing to your car, your safety, and the safety of your passengers.
I'll never understand trying to force alignment settings to fit incorrectly sized wheels, but thats me, and my opinion is just that. However, keep in mind a 0 offset wheel will radically change the scrub radius that Honda designed into our cars, and a partial brake failure will be radically more unstable with those wheels.
The Ingalls sliding UCA pivot "camber kits" won't let you add too much more negative camber. I was only able to get roughly an additional 0.5* over lowering alone, before the UCA was pushed into the shock tower trying to move them further in. Pounding the shock tower with a BFH should create more clearance, but I wasn't ready to do that.
I would think the best solution, would be to take a pair of OEM UCAs, and have them cut and welded, moving the upper ball joint in. You don't sound like you need the ability to fine tune handling through camber changes for race purposes, and all sliding ball joint and offset ball joint camber kits reduce available front suspension travel. I'm assuming the car will be dumped to compliment the "deep dish" wheels (now I want pizza), and the last thing you want is to give up front suspension travel.
If I am misunderstanding the original question, and the OP is asking to reduce negative camber, then
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In most cases a camber kit is not required. Just an alignment with the toe set to factory specs should be all that's needed, and rotate your tires regularly. Don't waste your money on camber kits and the resulting higher cost of alignments.
Besides, with 0 offset wheels you're going to need all the negative camber you can get to make the top of the tire clear the fender arch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
is completely correct.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Are you asking how to get the most negative camber possible, in order to pull the top of the tire in under the fedner?
If thats true, just know what you'll be doing to your car, your safety, and the safety of your passengers.
I'll never understand trying to force alignment settings to fit incorrectly sized wheels, but thats me, and my opinion is just that. However, keep in mind a 0 offset wheel will radically change the scrub radius that Honda designed into our cars, and a partial brake failure will be radically more unstable with those wheels.
The Ingalls sliding UCA pivot "camber kits" won't let you add too much more negative camber. I was only able to get roughly an additional 0.5* over lowering alone, before the UCA was pushed into the shock tower trying to move them further in. Pounding the shock tower with a BFH should create more clearance, but I wasn't ready to do that.
I would think the best solution, would be to take a pair of OEM UCAs, and have them cut and welded, moving the upper ball joint in. You don't sound like you need the ability to fine tune handling through camber changes for race purposes, and all sliding ball joint and offset ball joint camber kits reduce available front suspension travel. I'm assuming the car will be dumped to compliment the "deep dish" wheels (now I want pizza), and the last thing you want is to give up front suspension travel.
If I am misunderstanding the original question, and the OP is asking to reduce negative camber, then
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In most cases a camber kit is not required. Just an alignment with the toe set to factory specs should be all that's needed, and rotate your tires regularly. Don't waste your money on camber kits and the resulting higher cost of alignments.
Besides, with 0 offset wheels you're going to need all the negative camber you can get to make the top of the tire clear the fender arch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
is completely correct.
Re: which is the best CAMBER KIT???? (TunerN00b)
I think the MFactory kits look promising, although the front camber kits have not be released yet. also 2 very rare options also look like options.... Hardrace & A-sport
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Re: which is the best CAMBER KIT???? (BXk24ek9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BXk24ek9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">problem is that i have a 0 offset wheel</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure you don't drive a Volkswagen?
Are you sure you don't drive a Volkswagen?
Thread Starter
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From: new york
thanks for your info guys.......alot of it helped me.....and no im no vw but i juss experinmenting on some new enkei 92 wheels........ i was heading on buiying a ingalls kit and bringing it to the most negative camber so the tire could fit insde the fenders........my question is there any other camber kit that has a more negative camber?
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Re: (BXk24ek9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R-Lug »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The best camber kit is NO camber kit</TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: Sherman Oaks, CA, United States
Re: (nonsense)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the more negative camber the better 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Swing axle suspensions FTW!!!!!
My Spitfire has the same issue. The rear spring is sagging 1", and I have -4.75* of rear camber...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BXk24ek9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for your info guys.......alot of it helped me.....and no im no vw but i juss experinmenting on some new enkei 92 wheels........ i was heading on buiying a ingalls kit and bringing it to the most negative camber so the tire could fit insde the fenders........my question is there any other camber kit that has a more negative camber?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like I said previously, the best solution for you is to get a pair of OEM UCAs cut and welded for the front, if you are going to insist on running such incorrectly sized wheels. You don't need the ability for fine adjustment, just a large dose of negative camber, and this will leave you with the most suspension travel afterwards of any "solution".
Alternatively, bend the knuckles up front. Or do both, depending on how much camber you need.
For the rear, most any camber kit will be about the same, since its such a simple piece.
If you truly need "m4d tyt3 camber, y0!" in the back, try seeing if an EK rear LCA will fit, as it is much longer than the DC rear LCA. I have no idea if you'll be able to adjust the toe to any reasonable setting afterwards though, even if it fits.
Note: I would never recommend such steps to any normal person. But since safety and usability are already taking a back seat to appearance, anything goes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Swing axle suspensions FTW!!!!!
My Spitfire has the same issue. The rear spring is sagging 1", and I have -4.75* of rear camber...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BXk24ek9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for your info guys.......alot of it helped me.....and no im no vw but i juss experinmenting on some new enkei 92 wheels........ i was heading on buiying a ingalls kit and bringing it to the most negative camber so the tire could fit insde the fenders........my question is there any other camber kit that has a more negative camber?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like I said previously, the best solution for you is to get a pair of OEM UCAs cut and welded for the front, if you are going to insist on running such incorrectly sized wheels. You don't need the ability for fine adjustment, just a large dose of negative camber, and this will leave you with the most suspension travel afterwards of any "solution".
Alternatively, bend the knuckles up front. Or do both, depending on how much camber you need.
For the rear, most any camber kit will be about the same, since its such a simple piece.
If you truly need "m4d tyt3 camber, y0!" in the back, try seeing if an EK rear LCA will fit, as it is much longer than the DC rear LCA. I have no idea if you'll be able to adjust the toe to any reasonable setting afterwards though, even if it fits.
Note: I would never recommend such steps to any normal person. But since safety and usability are already taking a back seat to appearance, anything goes.
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