can someone plz explain to me whats the point of changing ur rear lower control arms to skunk, blox and so on? y is this good or how does it help anything.. because i think its totally pointless and ricer !


if it does help plz explain it to me ! i dont understand !

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RED_90TEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can someone plz explain to me whats the point of changing ur rear lower control arms to skunk, blox and so on? y is this good or how does it help anything.. because i think its totally pointless and ricer !


if it does help plz explain it to me ! i dont understand ! </TD></TR></TABLE>

If your car came with rear LCAs that do not have mounting points for a rear swaybar, then swapping them to either aftermarket or OEM w/ swaybar mount, is a valid reason.

In some cases, reduction in unsprung weight, is the reason to swap them.

However, for 90+% of aftermarket LCAs sales, its for appearance.

 

Because it makes your car look MaDD iLLz SuN!!!

No seriously, there is no benefit unless you need an area to mount a sway bar.

 

99 percent of ek's and eg's all models have the holes and its not very hard to drill it if it doesnt in the ek the eg and dc is cast but all dc have sway bar place... so its totally pointless other then un spring weight? where ek ones are pressed metal and dont way **** ! so these things are just ricer? i was right !

 

thanks guys !

 

wow.

 

There are several reasons to use aftermarket rear lower control arms.

1. as these vehicles get older bushings wear out and you can either replace the stock bushings with new ones or purchase aftermarket LCAs to replace them with.

2. some vehicles dont come with sway bars in the rear, if you want to add one, the rear lca needs to have a mounting provision. Some aftermarket rear lcas come with the mounting holes for the sway bar and some dont. Omnipower provides 3 holes on there rear lca to offer users some tunability for the sway bar and a modular bushing design. Some of the cheaper lcas dont locate the sway bar mounting in the correct place and require additional parts in order to mount the end links, so do some research before you. the lowest priced part might not be what your looking for.

3. weight reduction is important to some and its also a Green modification. some lcas such as omnipowers can save significant weight (fronts save 8 pounds while the rear save about 4 pounds). a few pounds here and a few pounds there it all adds up to better gas mileage and better performance.

4. Cosmetics, some people like to add things to their cars that offer a different or unique look to it.

 

wow i cant believe nobody mentioned wheel clearence, i believe that was the original idea for making them. i have 15x7's on a 96 civic hatch and it used to rum on the control arm so i bought the blox ones cause the dont stick up as high and now they clear perfectly. i tried grinding the stock units but i just didnt have enough room.

i also needed a swaybar mounting point and the stock stamped steel seemed too flimsy imo.

 

stocck steel ones are great i have a 22mm itr bar and no problems yet thank god ! ! and i used 15x 7 rims stock lower control arms and it was fine ... i guess if ur rim doesnt clear it , it may b a good reason to change themm ! thanks again guys !

 

I can't imagine how or where a wheel wouldn't clear a rear lower control arm, especially a relatively narrow 7" wide rim.

As for drilling stock arms, that's a BAD idea as the hole won't be located in the correct position.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't imagine how or where a wheel wouldn't clear a rear lower control arm, especially a relatively narrow 7" wide rim.</TD></TR></TABLE>

they rubbed trust me, i had a nice scratch all the way around the rear lip on both rear wheels and the control arm was shaved a little, i knew it was recent cause the metal was still shiny, i had work emotions if that makes any difference, im sure offset plays a roll, im not sure what mine was though, i think +45

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow i cant believe nobody mentioned wheel clearence, i believe that was the original idea for making them. i have 15x7's on a 96 civic hatch and it used to rum on the control arm so i bought the blox ones cause the dont stick up as high and now they clear perfectly. i tried grinding the stock units but i just didnt have enough room.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You've got to be kidding me

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i also needed a swaybar mounting point and the stock stamped steel seemed too flimsy imo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It sure wasn't too flimsy for Honda considering they used it without issue on the EM1 Civic Si (13mm bar) and the EK9 Civic R (22mm bar), plus the fact that it already holds the partial weight of each rear corner via the shock absorber assembly lower mount . . .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You've got to be kidding me </TD></TR></TABLE>

why? an seriously dont be smart *** cause ive seen you post a lot in the past few days and youve been pretty "hard ***" with a lot of your posts and i really dont care for that. im posting my opinion and experience here so if your gonna answer with that you better explain yourself.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It sure wasn't too flimsy for Honda considering they used it without issue on the EM1 Civic Si (13mm bar) and the EK9 Civic R (22mm bar), plus the fact that it already holds the partial weight of each rear corner via the shock absorber assembly lower mount . . .</TD></TR></TABLE>

note the word "seemed" in my post, i never said it was flimsy, and that wasnt even my main reason, as stated before it was a wheel clearance issue for me.

 

I'd still like to see a picture of how a stock LCA can come anywhere close to touching the wheel. The LCA is bolted to the trailing arm at a point that is several inches from the edge of the wheel, and is also behind the brake drum/rotor assembly.

What sort of wheel could come into contact with a stock LCA that wouldn't touch an aftermarket LCA?

Nobody had mentioned wheel clearance because, like me, I think most people can't picture how it could even be possible.

*edit* a wheel would scrub the brake assembly before it could touch the LCA.


Modified by PatrickGSR94 at 8:26 AM 12/5/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why? an seriously dont be smart *** cause ive seen you post a lot in the past few days and youve been pretty "hard ***" with a lot of your posts and i really dont care for that. im posting my opinion and experience here so if your gonna answer with that you better explain yourself.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I want to see a photo of how much clearance you have between the wheel and the control arm, because there is no way that a rear lower control arm is going to contact a 15x7" wheel unless you bent it in half or something.

 

Not to mention some people need them anyways due to seized bolts inside the bushing.

 

i think stock ones work great ! and they hold up woth 22 - 23 even the new asr 24 solid and even asr hallow bar 32 bar ! no need for these lower control arms ! i think there are just ricer ! just me tho !

dont forget MUGEN 26MM !!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd still like to see a picture of how a stock LCA can come anywhere close to touching the wheel. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I want to see a photo of how much clearance you have between the wheel and the control arm, because there is no way that a rear lower control arm is going to contact a 15x7" wheel unless you bent it in half or something. </TD></TR></TABLE>

come on guys why would i lie about this, you think im proud of my blox chinese cheap *** lca's? its the truth, it was rubbing the inner edge of the lip where the tire meets the wheel, no joke, and the only way i can get a picture is if i put the stock lca back on which im just not gonna do.

when i bought the car it was close to stock, the wheels were one of the first mods, they came with R comp tires so as you can imagine i was banging corners pretty damn hard, i dont know if that makes a difference or could contribute to the rubbing, its true though, unless im an idiot and im thinking of some other part it was rubbing on, now that i can check cause i grinded on what ever it was first, before removing the stock LCA. i'll go check that today, if im wrong i'll be more than happy to accept the retard of the year award

 

update:

ok after thinking about it more and discussing it with a friend who was there at the time we came to the conclusion that it was the stock camber kit it was actually grinding on, my bad, i was wrong. i cant verify that cause the stock camber kit was ditched a long time ago, but now that i think about it that had to be it, cause i never went under the car to grind anything, i did it from the wheel well area.

 

We weren't doubting you really, we just wanted to see a pic because I for one couldn't picture how it was possible and was interested to know.

Awhile back someone said their front lower ball joint castle nut was rubbing the wheel and I also couldn't picture how that was possible, but he posted a pic and that made it clear.

Now what is this stock camber kit you're talking about? Civics and Integras have no provisions for adjusting camber from the factory. Are you referring to the stock rear upper control arms, the ones that you put washers behind the bolts to help reduce negative camber?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Are you referring to the stock rear upper control arms, the ones that you put washers behind the bolts to help reduce negative camber?</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly

 

Other than providing a swaybar mounting point (if your stock arms don't have one), the only performance benefit you will see by switching to an aftermarket rear LCA is if the bushings are changed to something like polyurethane or spherical bearings. A harder material reduces deflection (bending/twisting in the bushings) which in turn results in more precise motion in the rear suspension, less unwanted changes in camber/toe/caster.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PIC Performance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Other than providing a swaybar mounting point (if your stock arms don't have one), the only performance benefit you will see by switching to an aftermarket rear LCA is if the bushings are changed to something like polyurethane or spherical bearings. A harder material reduces deflection (bending/twisting in the bushings) which in turn results in more precise motion in the rear suspension, less unwanted changes in camber/toe/caster.</TD></TR></TABLE>

makes sense, that does void out 90% of the lca's on the market (with the exception of yours, funtion7 and a few others) since most of them dont use bearings or urethane, i know for sure blox dosent, all the bushings on them cracked after 3 months i saw some nice ones you had on your site that used urethane and bearings, is there a reason for that? i dont wanna thread jack but i think this is relevant to the thread feel free to pm me though if you think its not.

 

/thread

 

they have holes like a golden eagle bumper diffuser for less wind drag