my car got stolen like 2 weeks about im planning to put a b20vtec but i got completely nothing no wiring harness or ecu nothing how much do u think the cost would be to built a fullybuilt or atleast semi fullybuilt b20vtec

 

are you going to go with a boosted setup or keep it NA? what are your overall goals?

 

well you can pick up a b20 block and head for about $500 to $600, then depenting on what vtec head you wanna run, any where from $300 to $600, then your harness you can pick up at a local junk yard, oh and plus tranny lets say $350 to $600 to to give you a ball park on just a stock b20-v motor all together high ballin it at about $2200 for good set up, and if you buy piece by piece imo

 

im goin NA for now dont know later but i dont like boost mainly NA

 

come on any one else with an idea how much for a built b20vtec N/A

 

My buddy has an EF 4-door with a 85mm B20/GSR VTEC that is running 13's with stock sleeves, crank, and rods. Believe he's making 210+ whp with a tune. I think I remember him saying he paid around $2600 for everything including install and tune.

Try B20vtec.com.

 

nice thts what i figured like 2600 or so and hes make 210 to the weels or no anyone else with an idea how much???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teamrpm2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im goin NA for now dont know later but i dont like boost mainly NA</TD></TR></TABLE>




BOOST FTW

 

if you af you already have to start from scratch and you have money for a biult turbo b20vtec wh not just go k-swap and have room to grow

 

A fully built B20vtec will cost you around 5000 depending on what you throw into it.

 

5000 thts exaggerated all i want is atleaast 190whp and like 150 to 160 torque i dnt think it will be tht much

 

nope..5000 is about right..if you dont want a **** motor. do it the right way or you will spend even more money fixing it every week. my LSVTEC cost litlte over 4k

 

you keep saying "Fully built"
do you even know what that implies?
cause the prices you're mentioning is just for a stock build.

and do you play on buying the parts and assembling yourself?
if not you have to factor in shop time to build the motor.

 

well u know i say fully built because im talking about everything included in the swap and just some extras too

 

well lets say a stock build engine how much is that???

 

I spent about 6k on my B20 build. There were a couple things I could have saved money on if I did things a little diffrent. I made 22whp and 160 ft lbs of torque. You have to pay to play.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teamrpm2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well lets say a stock build engine how much is that???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you just talking about a rebuild? If so figure you need pistons and rings, maybe just hone the cylinders if you want to save money and they arent messed up. Replace the rod bolts with ARP for sure. New oil pump, water pump, seals and gaskets. New bearings and all the fluids that go along with a rebuild.

If you do it right maybe 1000-1500 if you get deals and do it all yourself. I would say around 2 if you pay a shop maybe more.

 

You sure you wanna go b20vtec? IMO, 84mm cylinders is stretching reliability as a street motor. Go ahead and argue with me but I'm stating the facts. You got a thin *** cylinder walls with poor rod ration. No doubt the displacement kicks ***; especially on highway runs. To get you going....it would probably take $4500-5500 to build a badass b20vtec motor. Besides the vtec kit, b20 block, & b16 head, you'll need to get crank girdle, block guard (highly rec!), 11:1 c/r pistons (badass street compression & good compliment compression for future camshaft upgrade), chipped & tuned p28, b16 tranny (gotta get lsd!!), new bearings, and new gaskets. This should set you in the right path.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16b_eg3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You sure you wanna go b20vtec? IMO, 84mm cylinders is stretching reliability as a street motor. Go ahead and argue with me but I'm stating the facts. You got a thin *** cylinder walls with poor rod ration. No doubt the displacement kicks ***; especially on highway runs. To get you going....it would probably take $4500-5500 to build a badass b20vtec motor. Besides the vtec kit, b20 block, & b16 head, you'll need to get crank girdle, block guard (highly rec!), 11:1 c/r pistons (badass street compression & good compliment compression for future camshaft upgrade), chipped & tuned p28, b16 tranny (gotta get lsd!!), new bearings, and new gaskets. This should set you in the right path.</TD></TR></TABLE>


You are the reason babies cry.

First off how is an 84 mm bore streching the reliability of the motor if thats stock bore? CRVs with that motor seem to last a quite a while with no problems. Secondly, K series motors have thinner sidewalls than the B20 thats not their weakness. The crank rotation is identical to an LS motor or B18A. You do not need a crank girdle its overkill. A blockguard is a good idea. If you really want to make power go with a 12:1 compression piston and a good tune and you wont have any problems on pump gas.

Now the reason B20s have issues with sleeves is because they are cast as one piece. If there is any flex in the cylinders they crack. None of the other B series motors are cast like this. That is why a blockguard or resleeving is a good idea. It has nothing to do with the thickness.

 

yea i did research and its the sleeves tht usually give out on b20vtec but as long as u have blockguard or u resleeve thm ur kool but yeah 4500 to 5500 but ima be getting sum nice power out of tht with a setup tht expensive right???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teamrpm2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i did research and its the sleeves tht usually give out on b20vtec but as long as u have blockguard or u resleeve thm ur kool but yeah 4500 to 5500 but ima be getting sum nice power out of tht with a setup tht expensive right???</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup..made 215 over here..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teamrpm2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i did research and its the sleeves tht usually give out on b20vtec but as long as u have blockguard or u resleeve thm ur kool but yeah 4500 to 5500 but ima be getting sum nice power out of tht with a setup tht expensive right???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Glad you did your research. The main reason B20s fail is the same reason most LS/Vs fail. People put a VTEC head on and rev to the moon and the rods go. Bad idea. ARP rod bolts. Remember that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16b_eg3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You sure you wanna go b20vtec? IMO, 84mm cylinders is stretching reliability as a street motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're thinking 85/86mm B-Series.

 

x2

 

[QUOTE= I made 22whp and 160 ft lbs of torque. You have to pay to play.

thats funny 22whp!!

 

yup arp rod bolts is the way to go i knw wat to do i just want to see if i caught correct research and see the opinions of other ppl to

 

Right on. Have you tried the All Motor forum?