hey i just bought this car n ive noticed dat every one does ZC or d16 swaps into these cars. but my hardheadedness wants to go B-series on it. does any1 know what is all the things i would need? n by any chance know the hol process?

 

http://redpepperraing.com will have all your answers. just do a search there.

hasport mounts= 650.00
linkage= custom 86-89 teg
wire harness= modded stock hraness
axles=hasport or raxles about 300.00
86-89 integra front knuckles

just a few things off the top of my head

 

Its a whole lot of work for not that much gain imo. Put the zc in there and fix it up. Make a motul replica

 

I don't know about "not that much gain". It depends which B series you put in there. If you're going to throw in a non-vtec B18A1 (2nd gen integra), you're about equal or a bit more than a D16A1 or ZC.

You have easy upgrade paths with the B series. There are lots of B16A jdm VTEC setups around. You'll need a cable tranny (2nd gen integra, for example) and mounts. I've got some first place mounts. The rear mount can be used from a 99-00 Civic Si. For upgrades, you can start with a GSR motor (B18c1) and swap the head from a jdm B16A to create a "poor man's type-R". I'm doing that right now. Going from my D15A3 (87 CRX si) 90hp engine to over 200hp with a higher rev range will do wonders for the car. My car is a track-only one weighing only 1600 pounds. I am not dealing with the wiring....I pulled the entire harnesses out of the 2 cars that I got the engines out of along with the ECU's and everything else. Not cheap. That's the key.....B series is going to be far more expensive. A D series can be a few hundred dollars and the mounts are all from either your existing CRX/civic or from the 1st gen integra that you pull the engine/tranny setup out of. If you do an 86-87 Integra, the vacuum advance matches what you already have and the wiring becomes a non-issue. Just swap the computer (direct plug in).

I've driven a D16 CRX and I have to say that I was unimpressed. Sure, it had a bit more torque and revs but it was a small increment. Maybe it was because the car was a street car weighing a good 400 pounds more than my racecar, but I expected more. The whole car would have only been $1200. I've got probably $4k tied up in the B stuff. I'll get some back when I'm done, selling the GSR head (intake won't fit in the engine compartment anyways) and B16 lower end. If you're doing this kind of power, either find an LSD tranny to put the power down or put in an LSD. I'm spending the $1k on the Quaife and another $1k for the tranny rebuild to be sure it's all good. It's easy to spend more money while you're in there already. Aluminum flywheel? Or just machine the stock one?

D series is a couple weekends of work. B series is the entire winter.

my 2 cents worth

jack

 

B-Series? Why stop there? K's are going into old school Hondas these days. B or K, they will both work and give you a ton of power..... but at a cost.

These old cars are seriously nose heavy to start with. Adding more weight over the front only makes it worse. Of course if you do not plan on making any turns then it is OK

You will also need bigger torsion bars, not exactly an AutoZone item. They can be tricky to track down.

Here is a real radical thought- Build the EW that comes with the car. 150hp is not that hard to achieve (it you are not afraid of the smog inpsector) with side drafts or ITBs.

Scott

 

are we all seriously having this debate again?

the b series is MAYBE 100lbs heavier than the stock motor.

hp stock:
EW: 92
B16a: 160-170.

to make an EW with 160-170hp, it would be no where NEAR as reliable daily driving as a stock B series..

torsien bars can be EASILY found at upgrademotoring.com

also, for those of us who would like to live LEGALY we really can't run ITB's or sidedrafts on a car. i also think you'd get better gas mileage out of a b16a than a 150hp EW.

if you're building the car for fun, then i'd do a b series. (i am)

if you are building to be in a competitive racing series, i'd probably run the stock motor. why? cause with the animals that a b16a car would run against probably have a better suspension setup.

anyways, i don't know of many places that actually sell performance parts for an EW. and you think torsien bars are hard to come by? HA!

 

B series! K series!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cbstd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B-Series? Why stop there? K's are going into old school Hondas these days. B or K, they will both work and give you a ton of power..... but at a cost.

These old cars are seriously nose heavy to start with. Adding more weight over the front only makes it worse. Of course if you do not plan on making any turns then it is OK

You will also need bigger torsion bars, not exactly an AutoZone item. They can be tricky to track down.

Here is a real radical thought- Build the EW that comes with the car. 150hp is not that hard to achieve (it you are not afraid of the smog inpsector) with side drafts or ITBs.

Scott</TD></TR></TABLE>

mmmm...torsion bars tricky to track down. heres the phone # to upgrade motoring who always has them in stock 818-998-6005.

not that hard to acheive 150hp from an EW?are you joking? you need to stop misleading people with unrealistic HP #s.

have you ever driven a b-series powered 84-87 civic/crx? one that is well balanced power/suspension etc..? i think you might change your outlook if you did

 

its a good night and day different with a bseries swap.. i just did it in my 1988 integra with a d16a1 in it before. it revs up so much better especially in the top end. more power throughout the powerband also.

 

what we REALLY need is CSPCRX to chime in. he's had his CRX swapped for years and continually autocrosses it. with very very good success, might i add.

 

For the street or for autocross or roadrace with very limited modifications, I'd agree to stick with a D series. My car used to be an IT car, so the engine could really only have a header with exhaust and intake. In my present class, I could literally build a full tube frame open wheel car with a 4 cyl and drop a fiberglas body on top and be legal.

I can move weight anywhere I want. The battery is already in the back. If handling was a real concern, I can move anything I want to the rear. I have seen others (in my class) with rear mounted, bottom fed radiators and oil coolers, for example.

But for me, it's only a track car. I went with a B series because they are plentiful in street cars to buy and drive first. My CRX is a track toy. My present plan is to run the CRX next year for fun and my stock Mazda 6 to capture some track records in Showroom Stock.

It's taken me a year to come up to speed from the D series to the B series. I don't even want to hear about K series.

jack

 

why are we even talking about race cars? is he planning to full out race this thing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmda7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B series! K series! </TD></TR></TABLE>

You have those backwards.

 

I dont have it backwards if you look at what we are talking about. Im sick of everybody thinking K-swaps are needed for every Honda on the planet. They do not belong in and are way to much work for older cars like these. for you...

 

Grab a back copy of the November 2001 of Sport Compact Car. They have a VERY detailed list of items needed for a b16a1 obd 0 engine swap into an '86 CRX Si. Figure on spending about $4500 minimum for the total swap. That includes, engine and trans (LSD extra), HASport mounts, '99-'00 Civic Si rear engine bracket, '89 Integra disc brakes (front and back), '86-'89 Integra knuckles and hubs, modifying driver side engine compartment rail (free by using a heavy hammer), HASport axles, '90 Integra intermediate shaft, '86-'89 Integra CV joints, HASport harness kit, optional ECU (by ZDyne), custom 2 1/4" exhaust, '92 Integra GS-R upper and lower radiator hoses, '90 Integra throttle cable, '88-'89 CRX speedo sending unit, '88 CRX Si brake booster hose, and...figure in a new clutch, timing belt, and waterpump.

Now, want more HP then then the 160 of the b16a obd0? Well, you could go up to a b16a SIR II obd1 (170 hp), or all the way up to a b16b Type R obd 2 (185 hp)...but, you will pay a steep price of a $1500 for each 10-15 hp upgrade and extra $$ because you will also be moving up to an ecu with an obd 2 computer.

Now me...I'd investigate the B17a1 obd 1 found in USA '92-'93 Integra GSR's (160 hp). Lower compression (9.7 compared to 10.4 and higher of the JDM b16's), so if you decided to go turbo, no internal engine mods for a minimal (not full) amount of boost. Ideally for a turbo you really want to be around 8.9:1 to take FULL advantage of the turbo capabilities. So that'd mean different pistons to drop the compression in any b16. But beware, the '89 Integras are also a rare commodity. So many choices. Good luck.

Finally, remember that the handling characteristics of the early 1st gen crx's, being light, will be a bit nose heavy with these engine swaps. So forget about sports car characteristics and be more satisfied with straight line speed. Also, you will not have power steering nor air conditoning (no room).

If you go forward with it, I hope you build a "sleeper". It'll be more fun when you "spank" the other bad boys.

for engine info go to: http://hondaswap.com/reference...29128/

Also pick up the 'Honda Engine Swaps' by Aaron Bonk - good starter book to get you looking in the right direction as far as available options with the 1st generation CRX's.

 

Notice the OP hasn't posted? Probably has lost interest in the subject.

 

wow. this thread was four months old... and then brought back...

 

b-series is a great swap for these cars. almost as if it was meant to be! for a thourough parts list built from experience visit onegvtec.com and click on parts list

 

i like that website
nice n detailed wit good info
thx