Well since Ive started my car Ive had a Code 4 Crank Angle Sensor code. Ive checked the wiring and the sensor. And it all checks out ok. Its installed properly also. The CKP sensor and TDC sensor are on either side of the crank mounted on the oil pump. The CKP faces out towards the crank pulley and the TDC sensor faces the reluctor wheel on the gear that drives the timing belt. One thing that someone else noticed was that on the CKP sensor faces out and the reason it faces out is that it reads off something in that direction, unlike the TDC that reads off the timing belt gear. Does it read off of the crank pulley or on the balance shaft gear. The reason I ask is because I have a Kaizen speed balance elminator kit and I am running the balanace shaft pulley spacer along with a UR crank pulley. He was saying im getting this code because it reads off one of them and the aftermarket ones dont have what it reads off for Crank position. Maybe when they designed that spacer they were doing so on an obd1 car and didnt realize obd2 reads crank position in a different way ? Does anyone know about this ?

EDIT::: I looked at the two balance shaft pulleys. It looks like he was dead on with his diagnosis. Check out the pics.

http://s138.photobucket.com/al...2.jpg

http://s138.photobucket.com/al...1.jpg

Modified by lude98SH at 8:50 AM 12/2/2007


Modified by lude98SH at 8:51 AM 12/2/2007


Modified by lude98SH at 8:52 AM 12/2/2007

 

It reads off of the balance shaft pulley. As you have found out, there are teeth on the pulley that the sensor reads. OBD1 Preludes have these sensors in the distributor, so they can use this spacer that Kaizen uses.

When I eliminated my balance shafts, I kept the balance shaft pulley exactly for this reason. Sorry to hear that you're going to have to pull the timing belt off again.

 

yea well the timing belt isnt that big a deal. Just the fact that nobody really tells you about this and they include it into the h22a4 kit that i purchased. Why the hell would they give you that if it cant be used ? And it says nothing on their site about it. And I spoke with them several times about this and they said the only difference between the two kits is tap thread pitch. Its annoying that because of lack of research or just they forgot to mention it ... I have no idea. I looked at many posts and never remember seeing any info on this.

 

I can't answer for them, but I'd be willing to bet your problems will go away when you install the OEM balance shaft belt pulley.

The thread pitch on the tap? Is that hole already tapped? I didn't think it was, so I'm not sure why the thread pitch would matter. I also thought it was a pipe thread (i.e. tapered), no? I just rotated the bearings in my engine.

 

You don't have to take the timing belt off to put the balance gear on...

 

i think the a4 uses pipe thread and h22a or a1 uses something else i forget. Ill verify that with kaizenspeed because im giving them a call about this. I just would like them to post that on their site or atleast tell you. I dont want to put all the blame on them, because im mad that I didnt notice that the CKP facing out has nowhere to read.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't have to take the timing belt off to put the balance gear on...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wish it were that simple. Normally I know you dont have to. But like i said a few weeks back they machined that spacer wrong and you need to tap it on. And when you tap it son it a PITA to get off. And with the belt on i cant pry or get a puller on there.

 

100% correct. I was being a dumbass. Too tired from working on this S2k turbo build.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't have to take the timing belt off to put the balance gear on...</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

See if there is a way to heat the spacer. It's aluminum right? Heating it should expand it some, and will probably help you remove it. Just don't heat it too much.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lude98SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I wish it were that simple. Normally I know you dont have to. But like i said a few weeks back they machined that spacer wrong and you need to tap it on. And when you tap it son it a PITA to get off. And with the belt on i cant pry or get a puller on there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

yea i was thinking that but i was thinking everything else would expand with it. Does aluminum expand faster than steel ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lude98SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does aluminum expand faster than steel ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lude98SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And with the belt on i cant pry or get a puller on there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't see why the belt is going to get in the way. Don't make more work for yourself than you need to.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">100% correct. I was being a dumbass. Too tired from working on this S2k turbo build.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey, someone's gotta keep an eye on the info going around this forum



That's shiddy that they would charge you for and sell you a spacer that you can't use unless you convert for an obd1 distributor....

 

yea, i didnt even care on the price its the fact that they didnt say that you cant run the spacer and I wasted my time. Im not saying its not partially my fault because you should always double check everything you buy before it goes on but most good companies do all that for you.