Treble and no bass?
Hi Guys,
I recently got:
Kenwood Excelon KDC-X491 CD Receiver
Infinity Kappa 63.7i 6-1/2"/6-3/4" 3-way Speakers
Infinity Kappa 682.7cf 6"x8" 2-way Speakers
for my truck. My nephew installed everything and for some reason, I'm not getting any bass. I just want a basic system and so I'd rather not add an amp and sub into my truck if possible. The way the system is right now, the stock system sounded better. Is there something setting I am missing? Or is necessary that I have to get additional components to get good sound with my current setup.
Thanks.
I recently got:
Kenwood Excelon KDC-X491 CD Receiver
Infinity Kappa 63.7i 6-1/2"/6-3/4" 3-way Speakers
Infinity Kappa 682.7cf 6"x8" 2-way Speakers
for my truck. My nephew installed everything and for some reason, I'm not getting any bass. I just want a basic system and so I'd rather not add an amp and sub into my truck if possible. The way the system is right now, the stock system sounded better. Is there something setting I am missing? Or is necessary that I have to get additional components to get good sound with my current setup.
Thanks.
i think the receiver harness was bought, but the wires to the speakers are the factory ones. do those need to be replaced? and if so, it would mean rerouting the the new wires?
You do not need to replace the OEM speaker leads.
There are a few things that may be wrong, mostly install related....
Try this, use the HUs balance control and balance all the way to the left, then right, do you get better bass when only the left or right side is playing?
If so, the speakers are wired "out of phase", you will need to pull the left or right speaker out and switch the speaker leads, it makes no diff which side you rewire, there is not right or wrong way as long as the left and right are the same.
The next possibility is speaker installation, what is the MM&Y of the car they are in, you said truck, and one set of speakers are 6x8, which wold indicate a Ford.
94
There are a few things that may be wrong, mostly install related....
Try this, use the HUs balance control and balance all the way to the left, then right, do you get better bass when only the left or right side is playing?
If so, the speakers are wired "out of phase", you will need to pull the left or right speaker out and switch the speaker leads, it makes no diff which side you rewire, there is not right or wrong way as long as the left and right are the same.
The next possibility is speaker installation, what is the MM&Y of the car they are in, you said truck, and one set of speakers are 6x8, which wold indicate a Ford.
94
holy cow...
its people like you that work for the fbi. yes, it's a 1994 ford bronco. although i havent tested if its the cause (truck at another house), if the speakers arent out of phase, what would be another possible cause?
thanks again.
its people like you that work for the fbi. yes, it's a 1994 ford bronco. although i havent tested if its the cause (truck at another house), if the speakers arent out of phase, what would be another possible cause?
thanks again.
The next possibility would be improperly mounted speakers, no seal around the speakers edge.
A speaker needs to be...
1- Mounted to a flat surface, to prevent twisting the basket and misaligning the VC.
2- The speaker needs an airtight seal around the speaker, [for at least the speakers diameter from it's outside edge] to prevent "cancellation", [wave off the back of the speaker interfering with wave off the front of the speaker], cancellation effects bass response most.
3- Speaker needs to be mounted to "mass" the more mass the better, this is also to prevent cancellation, [mechanical cancellation] "for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction" if the whole speaker can move opposite to the cones movement, you have mechanical cancellation, that will effect a lot of things, including bass response.
4- The best mass for SQ, is wood.
Next on the list is current, the aftermarket HU has a much bigger built in amp then the stock HU did, the stock HU wold be about 2x7W RMS into 4 ohms, your HU is 4x22W RMS into 4 ohms, it is unlikely the stock ground and constant power leads can supply the current the HU needs, I would suggest you run a 12-10 gauge fused power lead from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the HUs constant power, [yellow] to it instead of the stock constant, don't forget to cap off the stock constant, you will also need to run the same 12-10 gauge as a ground from the chassis of the HU, [back brace crew] to the cars chassis, to "beef up" the ground, leave the HUs ground, [black] connected to the stock ground, [probably red].
The above should be done regardless if it is or is not the problem, as it will allow the HU to work at it's full potential.
Now before you go and start taking stuff apart, make sure the HUs internal x-overs, [front and rear] have not been set to H/P, [high-pass]
Also check the HUs "EQ" settings.
You will find info on pages 8 and 9 of your manual.
94
A speaker needs to be...
1- Mounted to a flat surface, to prevent twisting the basket and misaligning the VC.
2- The speaker needs an airtight seal around the speaker, [for at least the speakers diameter from it's outside edge] to prevent "cancellation", [wave off the back of the speaker interfering with wave off the front of the speaker], cancellation effects bass response most.
3- Speaker needs to be mounted to "mass" the more mass the better, this is also to prevent cancellation, [mechanical cancellation] "for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction" if the whole speaker can move opposite to the cones movement, you have mechanical cancellation, that will effect a lot of things, including bass response.
4- The best mass for SQ, is wood.
Next on the list is current, the aftermarket HU has a much bigger built in amp then the stock HU did, the stock HU wold be about 2x7W RMS into 4 ohms, your HU is 4x22W RMS into 4 ohms, it is unlikely the stock ground and constant power leads can supply the current the HU needs, I would suggest you run a 12-10 gauge fused power lead from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the HUs constant power, [yellow] to it instead of the stock constant, don't forget to cap off the stock constant, you will also need to run the same 12-10 gauge as a ground from the chassis of the HU, [back brace crew] to the cars chassis, to "beef up" the ground, leave the HUs ground, [black] connected to the stock ground, [probably red].
The above should be done regardless if it is or is not the problem, as it will allow the HU to work at it's full potential.
Now before you go and start taking stuff apart, make sure the HUs internal x-overs, [front and rear] have not been set to H/P, [high-pass]
Also check the HUs "EQ" settings.
You will find info on pages 8 and 9 of your manual.
94
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sagarajack
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