i got a 97 civic hatch.but it's carzy. in the morning, when it's cold, the car will idle fine. it will rev all the way upm too. but when the car gets warm, it has an irratic idle like it has a vaccum leak. and it also won't rev above 5k. all of this happened when i tried to do a mini-me. the head i wanted to swap didn't pass the pass the compression check when i put it on so i ended up putting the old head back on, and swapping the intake mani (to a skunk 2). also since i had one lying around i swapped to a y8 tranny. i already did everything that i could think of to find a vaccum leak. spraying the im with starter fluid, changing all the gaskets. i just don't know what to do!!!! i've asked all of the people that know anything about cars and they have nothing. so heard this was the place to ask a question about a honda so here it is. someone please help me!

 

sounds like you fucked **** up if you dont know where to begin to diagnose this problem then you probably shouldnt have attempted the swap in the first place.

Of course no mechanic is gonna tell you whats wrong when you go " yo i took dishead off dis oder car and put it on my car now it run fcked up wtf??

but if you pull some cheese out of your wallet i might tell you whats wrong.

 

damn man i guess well i didnt do a swap or anything like that but i did turbo my car and all of a sudden this happened to me too i was just woundering what was going on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6sirll &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like you fucked **** up if you dont know where to begin to diagnose this problem then you probably shouldnt have attempted the swap in the first place.

Of course no mechanic is gonna tell you whats wrong when you go " yo i took dishead off dis oder car and put it on my car now it run fcked up wtf??

but if you pull some cheese out of your wallet i might tell you whats wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and damn man this is ht not lets be a dick when someone asks a legit question

 

if i had the bread to take it to a machanic, mabye i would have done that instead of asking this question on the biggest honda forum in the world. now maybe i can get an answer from someone who has a clue instead of some ***** with a keyboard.

 

check your pvc see if you are getting blow back if its clogged that can cause vac problems. IF you did a mini swap are you using stock ecu sounds to me like when you hit operating temp your ecu air fuel is messing up most likely vacuum check the vacuum line to your intake and I know this sounds a little crazy but this does work if you are running an aftermarket air intake try tapeing it off 80-90% to limit your air intake then see if you are still having the same problems

 

thanks, i'll try that right now

 

that wasn't it, anyone other ideas?

 

only other thing I could think of without looking at it is you may be a couple of teeth off on your tming, double check all your vacuum lines, spark wires, distributor it does sound like a vac problem but I can't really tell ya where to start without seeing it any check engine light? if it runs fine when its cold a tuned ecu might fix it they run rich cold and lean out a little when warm you could get into alot of diagnosing on a swap fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, fuel filter, vacuum, timing advance, etc

 

well i got a ob2 tester, it's saying that all 4 cylinders are missfiring. this prolly gonna sound dumb, but can timing cause vaccum like symtoms. when did all of that stuff i wsa still stationed in england and the parts were no-name, and not genuwine honda. i got the timing belt from there is why i'm asking?

 

if your timing of the cams is off enought the intake valve opening will be so off in reguards to the piston, you wont build the specified vacuum pressure. so yes if the cam timing is off it will reflect vacuum issues. hwoever if you run the car, and then let the engine get nice and toasty and then shut it off for like 5 - 10 minutes does the car either refuse to start, or start extremly long and hard? if so take out your crankshaft position sensor, and tag it with an ohm-meter and hit it with a hairdryer while its not installed in the engine. [ do it on a bench] and see if the reading spikes out from about 1.2 kili ohms its a rought estimate of what i remember one on a mercedes being. see if it spikes into the mega-ohm range or reads OFL meaning open circuit. if you get that throw a crank sensor at it.