ok here's the prob, driving slow speeds like 0-20 mph braking no shakes, past that hit the brake my front starts shaking, im preety sure it's the driver side front but could be both. little camber wear on the front , but i don't think thats it. maybe loose bolt some where. not sure, anyone hav this prob before? lmk. thanks

 

your rotors are warped

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tsdenny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your rotors are warped </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2... just replaced mine. they did the same thing.

 

you may be able to get them turned at a machine shop, but the way to got is replace them with cross drilled and slotted rotors, this way there is less of a chance of this happening again by venting the rotor and keeping it cooler. heat is waht causes the warping. also try not to stand on the pedal, in hard braking press the pedal then let off and repeat, this will also help keep temps down

 

DEFINATELY REPLACE THE ROTORS, OR AT LEAST GET THEM TURNED. GETTING YOUR ROTORS TURNED IS FAIRLY CHEAP, AND IT WILL KEEP YOU FROM SHAKING ALL YOUR FRONT END PIECES OFF.

 

dont get drilled and slotted unless you want to change you break pads more often then before, you dont need them if your not stopping hard, or anything, in most cases you wont need them, just get some new rotors, if you want to cheap out, go with autozone duralast its not that bad if its just a DD, Brembro blanks are good, just imo

 

OEM rotors are 10x better than using slotted or drilled rotors, theres a forum somewhere around here explaining the difference on each rotor!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hellakapps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you may be able to get them turned at a machine shop, but the way to got is replace them with cross drilled and slotted rotors, this way there is less of a chance of this happening again by venting the rotor and keeping it cooler. heat is waht causes the warping. also try not to stand on the pedal, in hard braking press the pedal then let off and repeat, this will also help keep temps down</TD></TR></TABLE>

Absolutely NOT true.

Slotted and/or drilled rotors warp FASTER because:

1. Slotted/drilled rotors actually have less material to dissipate heat

2. Most of the aftermarket companies make them out of less than favorable materials

3. Most people add high performance/aftermarket brake pads that are harder on the rotors

I can personally attest to slotted rorotrs warping much more quickly than standard, FACTORY Honda type rotors on my own personal vehicle. If I didn't have slotted rear rotors on my 92 hatch I'd never have replaced my warped slotted fronts with yet another set of slotted front rotors.

Also the slotted rotors groan at high speed braking too, which is annoying as ****.

I may break down next time and buy all four corners of solid, OE type rotors and actually practice what I preach.

Anyways to the OP:

Your rotors are probably warped, and unless you have them turned on the car with an on-car lathe I'd just replace them. It'll be cheaper and easier honestly.

 

i have the same problem you have in my EF sedan. i cant pinpoint where the problem is comming from, however (driver side, passenger side, or both). BUT, i replaced both my front rotors and pads, and the problem did not go away.

hopefully you have a simple fix, but for me, its back to the drawing board...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hellakapps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... but the way to got is replace them with cross drilled and slotted rotors, this way there is less of a chance of this happening again by venting the rotor and keeping it cooler. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Please do not spread misinfo. Addition to what B18C5-EH2 said, x-drilled/slotted are way more expensive and are prone to cracking.

OP - Just get some Brembo blanks or Autozone Duralast blanks with some good pads (try cobalt friction. I like Axxis Ult. for the streets). You will be fine with that. I've auto-x'ed several times on this set up and my rotors were still fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by da1lydr1ver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have the same problem you have in my EF sedan. i cant pinpoint where the problem is comming from, however (driver side, passenger side, or both). BUT, i replaced both my front rotors and pads, and the problem did not go away.

hopefully you have a simple fix, but for me, its back to the drawing board...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I can also speak from first-hand experience in that on my 1991 EF hatch I got a set of brand new Brembo blanks and on my FIRST test drive I still had vibration under braking - turns out I got a bad rotor or two (warped right out of the box) and I exchanged them for another set, and the vibration went away.

You can happen to get a bad rotor or two, even new out of the box, and even with trusted brand names like Brembo.

If your car vibrates literally ONLY when hitting the brakes then you've got warped front rotors, or possibly warped rear drums/rotors.

Easy way to check for warped rear drums or rotors:

Drive down the road at 40mph or so, and apply light pressure to the e-brake by pulling the e-brake handle until you feel it begin to catch - all the while hold the button in so it doesn't stay pulled up. If everything still feels smooth then the rears are not warped. If the e-brake handle vibrates at all then your rear dums/rotors (which ever your car has) are warped.

 

your rotors are warped i have the same problem if there not bad get them machined and new break pads and you`ll be fine

 

this is so noobish, it hurts to ask...

can anyone help me identify rotors?
i have the same problem

i'm just assuming they're not pads either

sorry to steal thread

 

#22 on that diagram.

 

[QUOTE=p nut]

Please do not spread misinfo. Addition to what B18C5-EH2 said, x-drilled/slotted are way more expensive and are prone to cracking.

"OE German brakes from a famous manufacturer—that’s what makes Zimmermann brakes worth a look for your vehicle
Chamfered holes make Zimmermann drilled rotors run cooler and help pads last longer
High temperature steels are used on all Zimmermann rotors so they last longer and resist warpage"

" http://www.racepages.com/brand/zimmermann.html"

http://rodi.stores.yahoo.net/brcrdrbrro.html

don't say i'm spreading "misinfo" when they are thousands of webpages supporting my theory........and i never said go to ebay to by rotors, your speaking from personal experience and that i understand, i personally have had better luck with my x drilled and slotted rotors(higher speed stops, and downhill driving), so it does depend on what kind of driving you are doing and i'm sorry for not expaining that in my earlier post...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well I can also speak from first-hand experience in that on my 1991 EF hatch I got a set of brand new Brembo blanks and on my FIRST test drive I still had vibration under braking - turns out I got a bad rotor or two (warped right out of the box) and I exchanged them for another set, and the vibration went away.

You can happen to get a bad rotor or two, even new out of the box, and even with trusted brand names like Brembo.

If your car vibrates literally ONLY when hitting the brakes then you've got warped front rotors, or possibly warped rear drums/rotors.

Easy way to check for warped rear drums or rotors:

Drive down the road at 40mph or so, and apply light pressure to the e-brake by pulling the e-brake handle until you feel it begin to catch - all the while hold the button in so it doesn't stay pulled up. If everything still feels smooth then the rears are not warped. If the e-brake handle vibrates at all then your rear dums/rotors (which ever your car has) are warped.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is very interesting, because on my EF sedan, i also brought Brembo Blanks and i put on a new set of Axxis Ultimates...

 

oh yea, totally slipped my mind about the rotors, i think im gonna replace this weekend, thanks guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hellakapps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
"OE German brakes from a famous manufacturer—that’s what makes Zimmermann brakes worth a look for your vehicle
Chamfered holes make Zimmermann drilled rotors run cooler and help pads last longer
High temperature steels are used on all Zimmermann rotors so they last longer and resist warpage"

" http://www.racepages.com/brand/zimmermann.html"

http://rodi.stores.yahoo.net/brcrdrbrro.html

don't say i'm spreading "misinfo" when they are thousands of webpages supporting my theory........and i never said go to ebay to by rotors, your speaking from personal experience and that i understand, i personally have had better luck with my x drilled and slotted rotors(higher speed stops, and downhill driving), so it does depend on what kind of driving you are doing and i'm sorry for not expaining that in my earlier post...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No offense to you, but are you REALLY going to cite sources that are trying to SELL you on their products? Those are not neutral sources by any means.

I mean I can go and find some websites/links to "electric superchargers" or "tornado air intake" devices that claim all sorts of benefits, but we all know better.