okay i am preparing my car for this years wmhm in july 2008. lol. now i have tons of questions, and i would like to provide a list of what my car has, so just in case i'm missing anything crucial you guys can remind me. anyway, here are some of my questions..

my friend has a dc2 and an autopower roll bar. he wants to sell it to me when he comes home from college. i have an ej1 chassis. will the roll bar fit in my car? i know the chassis in theory are compatible, but for some odd reason, idk. can someone give me a correct answer please?

also...
i have a 94 civic ex and it HAS abs! also has rear discs. abs is NOT hooked up. should i hook it up or no? any serious benefits aside from personal preference? also, i still have the stock proportioning valve. should i get a 40/40 prop valve or is the stock one okay? should i keep the master cylinder or should i get an itr master cylinder?

here's my list of things to get:
new water pump
new timing belt
b&m oil cooler
brembo blanks all around / hawk hp+ pads all around
russell ss braided brake lines
PIC selects p2 (may not have money for it by track day)

and here's my current setup
ej1 chassis
gsr swap
18g turbo / 300whp @ 13psi (will turn down to 7 psi for the event)
rt-615 215 / 50 / 16 all around
gsr rear disc brakes
blox 21mm rear sway
blox rear lca's
skunk2 camber kit
nrg h brace
super gutted interior (no carpeting, rear seats, and passenger seat)


can anyone please help me out with everything i've requested? help is GREATLY appreciated!!! thanks!

 

have good brake fluid and pads. Other than that, just enjoy it.

edit: also, you'll probably want to throw in your passenger seat for an instructor

 

new water pump = > good to do for basic maintenance
new timing belt => good to do for basic maintenance
b&m oil cooler => good to do for engine safety
brembo blanks all around / hawk hp+ pads all around => suggest OEM pads for the rear. You do not want an aggressive pad in the rear because it may cause lockup under heavy braking.
russell ss braided brake lines => some say gives better brake pedal feel, other say it is a placebo effect. I run ss lines "just because", but honestly can't say that my brake feel is that much better.
PIC selects p2 => unless you can do a few autocrosses on new suspension, do not suggest upgrading/changing current setup before your first track day. Too many variables (learning how to drive on the track, learning your car, etc.)

Make sure you read the FAQ at the top of the page, TONS and TONS of info in there.

Remember it is a track day and not a race. Huge difference and even bigger difference in mindset. Track day = just learn and have fun, there is nothing to win, only everything to lose.

Also, as said previously, definitely install a passenger seat, because I believe it is required for HPDE novice to intermediate.

 

You may want a more aggressive pad on the front given the power you will be making. You might be carrying a lot of speed down the straights. I would go ahead with the stainless lines simply because you have a 14yr old car. They definately won't hurt. I like the design of the setrab oil coolers over the b&m's, but thats just personal preference. I think you will be ok switching to the PIC's, but you want to do it sooner than later so you can get use to the car and get it cornerweighted.

Are you running an aluminum radiator or a full width unit? If not, you should consider it before putting a boosted car on the track.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kommon_sense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I think you will be ok switching to the PIC's, but you want to do it sooner than later so you can get use to the car and get it cornerweighted.

Are you running an aluminum radiator or a full width unit? If not, you should consider it before putting a boosted car on the track.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ah yes. corner weighting. i was reading about that before, but i had lost the link relic gave me. it was very helpful and i understood it somewhat.

i have a 3in aluminum radiator with a 12in slim fan. it's not dual core, it's like an aluminum replacement of the d series radiator. i have never had a cooling problem since. i also run redline water wetter and water too.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by davidnyc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
PIC selects p2 =&gt; unless you can do a few autocrosses on new suspension, do not suggest upgrading/changing current setup before your first track day. Too many variables (learning how to drive on the track, learning your car, etc.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

but right meow, i'm on suspension technique lowering springs and stock shocks. how do you expect me to learn on that? lol. and i'm going to go for a test drive in a buddy's car of mine with the same exact suspension and i believe he's corner weighted as well. so i'll kind of have a feel for how the suspension reacts in terms of damping and stiffness.
as for the ss brake lines, i'd like to have them just in case, as kommon mentioned, because it is in fact a 14 yr old car. and my braking doesn't feel too good even with the rear discs.

can someone answer my question about the prop valve situation? i still get mixed answers from everyone, and every answer is contradicting of another answer. someone with personal experience help? lol.

and also, is there a good site to learn flag colors? and how to read braking markers?

 

I actually just added a page to my website with flag colors and their meanings.

http://www.goaheadtakethewheel....html

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm on suspension technique lowering springs and stock shocks. how do you expect me to learn on that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not so sure I'm following you on this. Think about how many people run on stock shocks, and even race on them. But it can't hurt to get a decent corner weighting done on the car.

The prop brake bias; I just use the stock one.

For your question about braking points, in the beginning you'll be using that to gauge when to start braking. You'll also learn that it's not necessarily how late you brake and there are other factors that impact braking. Since you have some time before your first event, take advantage of it and pick up some racing books such as Speed Secrets 1 & 2. They will be a huge help to you.

Maybe I should put some info. about corner weighting on my site too?

 

Homie, if you want me to look your car over sometime this week or something, let me know

PM'd you my number

 

if I were you I'd hook up the ABS. That way you can focus just on hitting the braking points, and not about threshold braking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PIC Performance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if I were you I'd hook up the ABS. That way you can focus just on hitting the braking points, and not about threshold braking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would hook it up too, but for a different reason. If you want to learn threshold braking, the ABS will tell you when you've gone past the threshold and locked up the wheels/tires.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would hook it up too, but for a different reason. If you want to learn threshold braking, the ABS will tell you when you've gone past the threshold and locked up the wheels/tires.
</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PIC Performance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if I were you I'd hook up the ABS. That way you can focus just on hitting the braking points, and not about threshold braking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would find out what the organization you're running with wants you to do with the ABS. Some groups want it disabled so that when you spin and go two feet in the car is predictable.

 

great comments!
one thing though, i don't know how to connect it.
and i've read about threshold braking, which is obviously too complicated for a beginner to learn, especially with it being my first track day.

PIC, where are your dealers in IL? i can't seem to get any info on them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and i've read about threshold braking, which is obviously too complicated for a beginner to learn, especially with it being my first track day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your first track day, you're not going to go as deep into a corner as you possibly can. You will begin to work on your braking abilities, and gradually become better at the skill gradually. What you'll find is that you will brake, then realize you slowed the car down too much or applied brake pressure too hard too early. So next time around, you slowly beging the process a bit later. Will you be able to brake as effectively as someone with more experience? No. But that does not mean you shouldn't begin learning now.

If you were to hook up your ABS, will it work properly? Why was it taken off to begin with?

I wouldn't suggest someone disabling the ABS if it were currently working, but in your case I'm not convinced I'd get it working specifically for this purpose.

 

i bought the car from my cousin and it has all abs components (i believe all) but it just "Wasn't hooked up". idk anything about abs because i've never had it, so i don't know how to hook it up or where to begin. can you help me?