I'm going to tell you guys the whole story since it probably would be best to start from the beginning. for those of you that are technical gurus i would be very VERY thankful if you could possibly steer me in the right direction. or at least help me understand what is going on before i bring it back to the shop...

i got my car all back in one piece and it was working fine (from factory 5 the shop i had it at) about oh maybe 2 months ago or so. i then got her tuned after 1k miles breaking it in because i had to get a new short block. my first issue was caused simply because the place i ordered my injectors from had sent me the wrong ones (aka the ones that required a resistor box to work properly). i got that issue fixed by getting some rc 750's. before the car was hesitating due to this problem. i then got the car tuned with the new injectors in and she was running beautifully. i mean as in no tach jump, no hesitation NOTHING. i thought to myself hey my car is finally how it should be after all this time. (with exception to a few things i had to do to make the turbo perfect.) then about 2 weeks after the tune my cars tack started jumping around again (it would only happen about 1 or 2 times a day and it was very minimal maybe like 100 rpms and there would be no change in the engine sound) then a few days after that it just started flippin out again at roughly about 2.2k rpms. and not like the small amount as before the tack was jumping and my engine would start to hesitate and i felt like ****(because my car that i took all this time to fix was acting up AGAIN, im sure you guys can relate). now just so you guys know the mods i have are as follows:

-BRAND NEW short block h22a1 closed deck sleeved, 87mm cp pistons, new honda OEM crank, new rods so basically the works had been done to this engine (thank you nir.vtec (aka clint) for the deal)

-h22a4 head from the old motor with about 77k miles on it that i had tested to make sure nothing was wrong with it and the results were fine.
-complete turbo kit that i pieced together myself and did a good job at doing if i do say so myself
-S2 cam gears
-walbro 255 fuel pump
-750cc rc injectors
-2.5" dp into stock exhaust ( i know ill get that changed to 2.5" turbo back plz dont yell at me money is thin right now lol)
-p28 ecu tuned for boost off crome (tuned @ factory 5 by mikey)

on the tune all the a/f ratios were good but i have to get the boost leaks fixed for it to be perfect because it starts to become a little jumpy as im sure some of you know what thats like.

the car has a brand new battery, distributer, oil pump, water pump, timing belt, the works done to it.

it also has an oversized headgasket due to the pistons coming slightly up into the head made by crometic.

things that dont really matter is that it has a new clutch and resurfaced flywheel, but i thought i'd just add that in.


now this issue did happen to me but hasn't happend since i fixed the valve cover. i had found oil in the spark plug cylinders (not sure if thats the correct term but its the place where the spark plugs are and the wires go inside). but i believe that was due to the fact that there was a small cut on one of the spark plug gaskets in the valve cover. i replaced that one and it hasn't had oil in it since. i did go and replace the plugs and the wires due to the fact that they were both covered completely in oil.

help me out here guys i'm out of ideas....

A: the external coil since ihavn't had a chance to get one or borrow one (thanks to the guy that said i could borrow his from my car club) but the distributer is brand new so that leads me to believe otherwise. not saying that i wont still want to try it out tho.
B: i have bent valves in the head maybe? i dunno im tryin to think the worst here i guess...

or

C: the piston rings need to be replaced.

thanks for whoever reads this novel i wrote i just had to get everything clearly stated. and so there would be enough info to get this started. once again thank you guys for the help

mike

 

i just wanted to bump this up to the top to kinda keep it there for some people to look at. i know i hadn't had it posted for long but ive just been thinkin about it and have been stumped. i know its long and i know its a lot of words, but we didn't go to grade school for nothin right?! lol

also i just wanted to make everyone feel bad because i was going to china town right now!

oh yeah and ps. i havn't been driving her due to this problem because i dont want to further the issue. but i have started her up a few times just so shes not sitting in the 30 degree weather untouched.

once again sorry for the quick bump.

 

I kinda had the same problem awhile ago but it was the dizzy that went bad, which you said you got a new one. The dizzy would basically lose track of where it was and the car would turn off and back on real quick when it picked back up again causing the stumble and the tach to jump. Dataloggers are your friend when it comes to stuff like this!

Do the plugs look o.k.?

 

i replaced the plugs but then again my tuner ( mikey) is thinking it has to be an electrical issue. so therefore he still wants me to try out a new external coil it may have possibly went bad or wasn't ever working in the first place.

 

yeah deff sounds electrical, like somethings getting hot and then acting up. maybe even the main relay?

 

thanks for the reply rosko. if it is i will send you naked pictures of myself lol man i just felt like saying that since i have missed my car for so long but here's an ebeer for the quick response :D

assuming thats the problem. if it isn't then im taking my beer back

 

yeah, i thought the ICM relayed the info to the tach. but if its a new distributor, it shouldnt be bad, so maybe theres a short in the signal wire to the tach? is the engine surging or is the tach just jumping around?

* Rosko reallly wants those pics man!

 

It sounds like a wiring issue of some kind. Can you log it with whatever ECU you're using? Otherwise, check grounds, ignition power and signals, connectors, fuses, etc. Don't put ignition power or spark wires next to the crank position signal wires. The spark wires are resistive, right?

 

*cough* CROME *cough*

BTW: 3" full system, not 2.5"


It ain't the shortblock......well, it could be......its way of telling you to BOOST more!!!!!!

Dizzy issues 2 times on a towtruck in 8.5 years, both times for a damn dizzy.

 

i get off work at 3 tomorrow so ill see what i can do t.t