F23 block & H23 head. Trying to rebuild an OEM daily driver motor. Please offer input.
Ok so I've read most of the buildup threads and I've come up with some ideas.
I've got a 4th gen lude with an H23 that is starting to fail. The number 4 cylinder is smoking.
I read through some threads and noticed that the factory f23 block with h23 head would have around 9:1 compression. Can anybody verify this number?
I want to replace my block with something non FRM (and CHEAP), and I want to retain my factory ecu, and I want to run lower octane gas, so this seems to fit the bill perfectly. This motor will be used for long trips on the freeway and lots of cruising (1000+ mile trips)
For those with experience, is their anything unreliable with running this setup? Is it going to be exactly like an OEM H23 block but with slightly lower compression, or are there other differences that might make it unreliable? Can you think of any reason that the factory H23 ecu might not run correctly with this setup and get good gas mileage?
I plan on putting this motor through over 50,000 miles in the next 3 years so I want to build it correctly.
My main goals are factory reliability, good gas mileage, and lower octane fuel.
Modified by bambbrose at 5:38 AM 11/30/2007
I've got a 4th gen lude with an H23 that is starting to fail. The number 4 cylinder is smoking.
I read through some threads and noticed that the factory f23 block with h23 head would have around 9:1 compression. Can anybody verify this number?
I want to replace my block with something non FRM (and CHEAP), and I want to retain my factory ecu, and I want to run lower octane gas, so this seems to fit the bill perfectly. This motor will be used for long trips on the freeway and lots of cruising (1000+ mile trips)
For those with experience, is their anything unreliable with running this setup? Is it going to be exactly like an OEM H23 block but with slightly lower compression, or are there other differences that might make it unreliable? Can you think of any reason that the factory H23 ecu might not run correctly with this setup and get good gas mileage?
I plan on putting this motor through over 50,000 miles in the next 3 years so I want to build it correctly.
My main goals are factory reliability, good gas mileage, and lower octane fuel.
Modified by bambbrose at 5:38 AM 11/30/2007
you should PM PirateMcfred
he's the pioneer of this motor....
p.s. i plan on doing the same setup
he's the pioneer of this motor....
p.s. i plan on doing the same setup
Like I stated, I've read all the buildup threads (including that one).
I'm just looking for input on whether or not the factory p14 ecu will work good and fit the torque (fuel) curves of the G23. Also looking for input on the reliability or any other issues I might run into. Does the 87x95 vs the 86x97 make that big of a difference? How would it change engine characteristics?
I'm just looking for input on whether or not the factory p14 ecu will work good and fit the torque (fuel) curves of the G23. Also looking for input on the reliability or any other issues I might run into. Does the 87x95 vs the 86x97 make that big of a difference? How would it change engine characteristics?
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lol please read my question again. I'm not asking if it will run, because it obviously will. I'm asking how it will run. Does the longer stroke but decreased bore move the powerband around, therefore making the fuel maps off?
In my opinion if you don't have a stock Honda engine then don't use a stock Honda ECU. The P14 will probably work fine for you but if you want to realize maximum potential then tune the engine.
thanks for the reply. My reason for wanting to run the stock ecu is because I will be turbocharging the motor but not right away.
I'm just trying to save money by holding off the tuning/dyno session until after I get my turbo setup running well.
I'm just trying to save money by holding off the tuning/dyno session until after I get my turbo setup running well.
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