Help Please - EGR valve
with the engine idling, pinch the hose between the PCV valve and the intake manifold with some pliers. You should here the PCV valve start to make a clicking sound. If not, replace it.
Also, make sure there aren't any leaks around the PCV valve or the hose.
Also, make sure there aren't any leaks around the PCV valve or the hose.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zspy_007 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But how do it test the EGR?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have an automatic trans? An easy way to test for plugged EGR ports is to have the engine fully warmed up and then hold the brake while in drive and raise the RPM thru 1700. If the EGR ports are plugged up there will be an engine stumble between 1500-1700 RPM.
You can also stick your finger under the top of the EGR valve and manually lift it and the engine should stumble
You have an automatic trans? An easy way to test for plugged EGR ports is to have the engine fully warmed up and then hold the brake while in drive and raise the RPM thru 1700. If the EGR ports are plugged up there will be an engine stumble between 1500-1700 RPM.
You can also stick your finger under the top of the EGR valve and manually lift it and the engine should stumble
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You have an automatic trans? An easy way to test for plugged EGR ports is to have the engine fully warmed up and then hold the brake while in drive and raise the RPM thru 1700. If the EGR ports are plugged up there will be an engine stumble between 1500-1700 RPM.
You can also stick your finger under the top of the EGR valve and manually lift it and the engine should stumble</TD></TR></TABLE>
step on the brakes first and then give it some gas? is that safe for the car? i know the brakes are 10x penetrative than the gas.
You have an automatic trans? An easy way to test for plugged EGR ports is to have the engine fully warmed up and then hold the brake while in drive and raise the RPM thru 1700. If the EGR ports are plugged up there will be an engine stumble between 1500-1700 RPM.
You can also stick your finger under the top of the EGR valve and manually lift it and the engine should stumble</TD></TR></TABLE>
step on the brakes first and then give it some gas? is that safe for the car? i know the brakes are 10x penetrative than the gas.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dleccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
step on the brakes first and then give it some gas? is that safe for the car? i know the brakes are 10x penetrative than the gas. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Pull out your shop manual and look up the T.C. stall test in the Transmission section.
I also included the alternative test in my post.
step on the brakes first and then give it some gas? is that safe for the car? i know the brakes are 10x penetrative than the gas. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Pull out your shop manual and look up the T.C. stall test in the Transmission section.
I also included the alternative test in my post.
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Assuming our engines egr systems are similar, get a vacuum tester and plug it into the vacuum line running into your egr valve. Squeeze the tester until you have vacuum and then watch the gage to see if the valve holds vacuum. If it leaks, its bad.
Then with the engine warmed up and running, in neutral with the parking brake on, apply vacuum to the valve and your engine should stumble and die. It does this because applying vacuum opens the valve and feeds your engine exhaust gas which it cant run on because its only at idle.
If your engine does not stumble and die, you have a clogged egr system.
Sears sells a good vacuum tester, but any will work.
sohc
Then with the engine warmed up and running, in neutral with the parking brake on, apply vacuum to the valve and your engine should stumble and die. It does this because applying vacuum opens the valve and feeds your engine exhaust gas which it cant run on because its only at idle.
If your engine does not stumble and die, you have a clogged egr system.
Sears sells a good vacuum tester, but any will work.
sohc
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You can also stick your finger under the top of the EGR valve and manually lift it and the engine should stumble</TD></TR></TABLE>
manually lifting it will only tell you if its clogged, NOT if the EGR valve is good or not. Probably why the manual tells you to use a vacuum gage.
If the valve does check out, and the engine does stumble, but the valve still isn't working while driving (May cause 1500-2000 rpm stumble, pinging, poor fuel economy, and blistered plugs from high combustion chamber temps) Then you need to check the vacuum lines to the valve for leaks, and the components that control the valve, such as the solenoid valve that applies vacuum to the EGR.
sohc
If the valve does check out, and the engine does stumble, but the valve still isn't working while driving (May cause 1500-2000 rpm stumble, pinging, poor fuel economy, and blistered plugs from high combustion chamber temps) Then you need to check the vacuum lines to the valve for leaks, and the components that control the valve, such as the solenoid valve that applies vacuum to the EGR.
sohc
hey guys i have a question i have a 97 acoord vtec and my check engine light has been on for the longest wit the code p0401 i looked it up at autozone and it says egr insufient flow, i checked and cleaned my egr valve and i also replaced my egr vaccum solonoid, then cleared the light but now it came back on again, can anyone give me any ideas wat could be the problem i have inspections coming up thanx in advance
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