Hi guys not much tech on this thread but i need some input from some of u guys out there that have more experience than i do. I'm about to buy a full b17a1 (GSR) swap for my crx. I was also thinking about however boosting my single cam. In the long run which set up do u guys think would be more reliable and cheaper in the because this is my daily driver and ive had a few friends with b series swaps dat have had tons of problems...Also if anyone has had the b17a1, does it feel as strong as a b18c1 or more like a torqueless b16a??? sry for the no tech guys but i really need some guidence because i have to decide weather or not to buy the swap by friday....thanks for your help....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueRex1020 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi guys not much tech on this thread but i need some input from some of u guys out there that have more experience than i do. I'm about to buy a full b17a1 (GSR) swap for my crx. I was also thinking about however boosting my single cam. In the long run which set up do u guys think would be more reliable and cheaper in the because this is my daily driver and ive had a few friends with b series swaps dat have had tons of problems...Also if anyone has had the b17a1, does it feel as strong as a b18c1 or more like a torqueless b16a??? sry for the no tech guys but i really need some guidence because i have to decide weather or not to buy the swap by friday....thanks for your help....</TD></TR></TABLE>

B17a=B16a, same block just slightly diff crank and pretty much no diff you can feel. b-series is just as reliable as D-series you just gotta maintain it and not rev it to 10k or something else that stupid. the best $$ obviously comes from the best deal you get. You want problems?? Go turbo....

Boost is great but if you think B-series swaps have trouble (which they don't) you just try dealing with a whole new set of parts with a turbo, takes more work to get right. All motor is always more simple, less parts (though harder to make real power though)

 

if you do the b series swap right ie quality wiring and parts you will be extremely happy and it will treat you as good as you treat it. kids buy b16s raise the redline smash on them nonstop and then wonder why they blow up. a gsr is a b18c1 and it does not feel like a type r(b18c5) but with a few upgrades cams intake exhaust will pull just as hard, although its a different engine in alot of ways and will never quite feel the same. honestly stepping up from the stock d you will be very happy i think even with a stock gsr.
and dude all hondas are torquless.
a turbo can be just as reliable as a b. but not for the same price. i wouldnt recomend turboing unless your going to spend the money to do it right and reinforce the bottom end. always overbuild and youll always be happyer then the next guy. if you think you have enough mony save some more. if you feel somewhat sketch about wrapping your car up all the time upgrade your valvetrain.

good luck. do it right and any route you take will be a good one.


Modified by 503_EF9 at 10:38 PM 11/28/2007

 

the B17a1 would be more reliable than a bossted single cam for sure.

From my experience, i've only driven one car with a B17. 93 civic hatch, and that lil thing moved. Deff. more pep than a B16.

 

Here's how I see things. MOST of the problems I have seen with B-series swaps are electrical. They are directly related to the quality of the wiring. But with good wiring, this will NOT be a problem. On the other hand, B-series motors are more reliable than D-series motors from a mehanical point of view when boosted because they are stronger.

 

B16aower: 150 hp @ 7600 rpm & 111 ft·lbf (151 N·m) @ 7000 rpm

to
B16Bower: 185 hp (137 kW) @ 8200 rpm & 118 ft·lbf (160 N·m) @ 7500 rpm

B17: Power: 167 hp @ 7600 rpm & 117 ft·lbf (159 N·m) @ 7000 rpm

Choice is yours.

 

i have a b17a1 in my 90 hatch and that thing pulls plus they are spose to be rare or some bullshit so go with the b17

 

Iv'e had 2 different b swaps and have had no problems in 5 years, those
motors are tuff now the tranny on the other hand iv'e gotten good at changing.
b17

 

Thanks for all the input guys. The reason why i was doubting the B-Swap was because i have friends dat have them n it seems that they spend more time fixing the cars then driving them. But they are idiots n think da motors will last forever at 10k rpm...N ive beaten the crap out of my single cam n it still runs like a champ n i dont want to spend this good amount of cash on the b-swap n be scared to open it up because of it breaking....aslong as i keep the stock rev limit, a good tune n a good set of valve springs n retainers i should be fine right? cus like i said my crx takes me to college n work n i cant have it breaking down all da time...

 

Honda's strengths lie in the reliability of their engines. The B16 is no exception.

 

Oh i know that. The b16 is a good motor. I just dont like dat fact that it feels like a single cam under 4k rpm...n that i'm neck n neck with many of them with just an si tranny, 6 puck, all bolt ons, ported intake mani, mpfi, obd1, n an ls computer....dats y i'm hoping to feel a significant difference with good reliability from the b17 swap...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ThatGuy(SW) &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
From my experience, i've only driven one car with a B17. 93 civic hatch, and that lil thing moved. Deff. more pep than a B16. </TD></TR></TABLE>

RETARDED!! It only had more pep than a B16 if it had more stuff done to it than a stock B16 because the B17 is practically the SAME MOTOR!!!!!!


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ~sp33~ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B16aower: 150 hp @ 7600 rpm & 111 ft·lbf (151 N·m) @ 7000 rpm

to
B16Bower: 185 hp (137 kW) @ 8200 rpm & 118 ft·lbf (160 N·m) @ 7500 rpm

B17: Power: 167 hp @ 7600 rpm & 117 ft·lbf (159 N·m) @ 7000 rpm

Choice is yours.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Where in the F*^k did you get your specs???? you too are RETARDED!!!! do your research,BS on this site, people like you act like they know what they are talking about and mislead others that really don't know.

89-91 B16a JDM OBD0 = 160hp
92-00 B16a2 and B16a3 OBD 1 and OBD 2 USDM and UKDM =160hp
92-93 B17a USDM OBD 1 GS-R 160hp!! (and I have even seen 155hp listed quite a bit)
92-00 B16a JDM OBD 1 and OBD 2 =170hp

And I'll just stop there since the Type R motors are way too over priced to be valid in this thread regarding the OP.

So again to recap even though the actual specs differ slightly YOU WILL NOT AND CANNOT FELL THE DIFFERENCE IN THE 2!!!
ask anybody that actually knows and they will tell you the same thing, oh yeah did I mention I too had a B17 once? so yeah, no difference, just more rare

 

i see what your saying. The swap comes with dat very rare cable gsr tranny wich is something else dats encoraging me to buy the swap because i can always change to a 1.8 block...

 

^^^How you came across...^^^

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecSyndrome &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">RARRRR RAR RAR RAR RAR VTEC RAR RAR NO DIFFFERRRARRRRANCE RAR RAR RAR</TD></TR></TABLE>

Take it easy duke, jesus christ.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComeOnKip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^How you came across...^^^

Take it easy duke, jesus christ.</TD></TR></TABLE>

BUT THE VTACH MAN THE VTACH!

He has a point, even if he was a bit... excited about it.

I'd buy the motor just for the trans anyway though, a good GSR YS1 is something to be drooled over if everything's good on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustAnotherRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a good GSR YS1 is something to be drooled over if everything's good on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

everything good on it to me = case still intact so you can jam som ITR s80 Hydro internals in that biznatch. 4.7 FD with the feel of a cable... mmmm

 

yea the decision is made n i'm buying the swap. But like i said, aslong as the stock rev limit is kepted, a good tune n some valvesprings n retainers in the future the set up should last me a long time right? anything else i should look out for???

 

get a new cam seal b series are famous for leaky ones as did mine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComeOnKip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^How you came across...^^^

Take it easy duke, jesus christ.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I couldn't care less if my response was offensive, It offends me to see such bad info posted so much on this site. You don't want me posting responses like that? then stop all the idiots on here that post horrible misinformation (as in not even close) .................yep, not gonna happen on either side

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecSyndrome &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">RETARDED!! It only had more pep than a B16 if it had more stuff done to it than a stock B16 because the B17 is practically the SAME MOTOR!!!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

But due to its increased displacement, it will have slightly more low end torque. Also, gearing in a B17A transmission is slightly shorter than even your typical JDM S1 B16A transmission. This will also help acceleration (if you are using this transmission).

 

guys no need to fight and argue. I appreciate everyone's input as this is my 1st b series all this info is useful. And yes, i am using the ys1 cable gsr tranny. is that the correct code?

 

just for reference

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT GUY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

just for reference</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's hot biscuits right there ^^^^

 

I miss my b17 and hatch
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1220246

I run sohc turbo 4door eg these days. Much faster. lol

 

You'll enjoy it.

It won't be as fast as a turbo D series, but it won't ever break if you maintain it and don't do stupid crap like revving it to 9000+. Spend the money to get a good conversion harness. I personally used a Rywire harness. Spend the money to get a quality set of mounts, don't skimp and buy the cheap *** mounts on eBay. I personally used Innovative mounts, but many others would tell you to use Hasport. Do a timing belt and water pump change while the engine is out of the car. It is much easier to do so then and it is a prime opportunity to do so.

Treat it like an engine that you actually give a crap about and it will reward you with lots of smiles and very few problems.

I beat on my B17 swapped CRX quite often, but I also maintain it and fix things as soon as they break. It is a fun little car, although no the fastest.

The GSR YS1 trans is ****. Add an ITR or B16 LSD along with a good suspension setup and have even more fun tossing the car into the corners.

Just my $0.002 on the subject. The one year anniversary of the swap will be coming up here right at Christmas. Other than fixing things that need replaced on the car itself, 250K+ on the chassis, it has been completely trouble free for the past year of daily driving.