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Best Battery for Daily Driver?

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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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Default Best Battery for Daily Driver?

Hi guys,

My battery just died on me... I'm just wondering, what is the best battery in the market? Should I just go with Honda Factory Battery or some aftermarket battery?
I don't have a sound system but my battery is relocated to the trunk when I did my k20 swap.

Thanks in advance,
-kasim
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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Default Re: Best Battery for Daily Driver? (kasimmmmm)

Any battery that meets at least the minimum CCA required for your car is OK. The higher the price, the longer the warranty. That's about the only difference. Since your battery is relocated, physical size (group number) may not be that important.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 05:46 AM
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Sears lifetime warranty
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 07:44 AM
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Default Re: (mgags7)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sears lifetime warranty </TD></TR></TABLE>

Any wet-cell battery (most normal car batteries) would need a battery box vented to the outside of the car if mounted in the trunk.

If you don't want to run a vented box, you should use a sealed dry-cell battery.
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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 01:52 PM
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I do have a vented box... but the problem is my car sags in the rear with a heavy battery..

in light weight batteries, any reliable brands? or it doesn't really matter?
-kasim
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 05:00 AM
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The problem with small light-weight batteries is they usually put out relatively low cold-cranking amps. This problem is magnified when you put the battery way back in the back and the current has to travel 15+ feet to get to the starter and alternator.

Just how heavy is the battery you were running before, and how soft are your rear springs? I can't tell any noticeable difference in ride height in the rear of my car between having my sub box and spare tire in vs. having them out (probably 80 lbs. total), and I only have stock ITR rear springs. Going by spring rate, it should only be about 1/4" difference in ride height at the most.

When I had 450 lb/in GC rear springs, there certainly was no discernable difference, as 80 lbs. would only compress the rear springs less than 1/8" on each side.
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 05:18 AM
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Default Re: (PatrickGSR94)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Any wet-cell battery (most normal car batteries) would need a battery box vented to the outside of the car if mounted in the trunk.

If you don't want to run a vented box, you should use a sealed dry-cell battery.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What is your definition of "need"?

To follow the strict rules of racing orgs and track days, yes, but otherwise, I don't think it's absolutely necessary to have one of those expensive *** boxes in the trunk.
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 06:40 AM
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Default Re: (mgags7)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What is your definition of "need"?

To follow the strict rules of racing orgs and track days, yes, but otherwise, I don't think it's absolutely necessary to have one of those expensive *** boxes in the trunk.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well okay, unless you like to have hydrogen gas venting off inside your car, then sure don't use a box.

All wet cell batteries vent hydrogen and oxygen gas, which can be an explosive mixture.
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 05:47 PM
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battery leak can dangerous in the case of non-vented casing...


thanks for the info guys! this is why I love honda-tech! good info
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