I recently removed my charcoal canister and replaced everything with a 5/8" hose, but didn't like the idea of moisture, etc. being able to get inside the line. After installing an inline check valve from McMaster Carr with a cracking pressure of 1 psi, it seems like that's too much resistance. I refilled my tank for the first time yesterday, and the whoosh noise was louder than when I had the charcoal canister. I PM'd someone who destroyed a Weldon fuel pump that was improperly vented, and he said that most people use a vented gas cap and roll over valve. However, I just run a simple Walbro 255 lph hp.

When I removed the charcoal canister, there was a smaller canister that was also removed. Was this a roll over valve?

Is the best solution for me to leave the check valve in place, and add a vented gas cap, or should I do something different? If I go to the auto parts store for a gas cap, the robots behind the counter are just going to go by the year of my car, etc. What vented cap should I get?

 

No one knows?

 

Well you probably have a line running to the front of the car now or do you have a sealed tank now?
If you have a breather port, then its fine. I have a hard time believing someone broke a fuel pump because of a non vented gas tank.

 

i can absuletly beleive that a non vented tank ruined a pump.

I would also like to know some info on this subject.I can forsee vapor lock issues and other things w/ a non vented tank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flashmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well you probably have a line running to the front of the car now or do you have a sealed tank now?
If you have a breather port, then its fine. I have a hard time believing someone broke a fuel pump because of a non vented gas tank.</TD></TR></TABLE>


why cant you?

if you have a big enough pump, and it can move alot of fuel, and it isnt vented, it will start to collapse the tank.

why do i know this? because im the idiot that did it. my weldon started to pull such a vacuum on my tank, it caused the drive coupler ( thats a mechanical fuse between the drive motor and pump ) to snap. when the pump is laboring the motor doesnt know to stop, it just works harder. the drive coupler snaps to not burn up the motor.

it didnt ruin the pump, but it was a 50dollar mistake, and caused me to miss a race from down time.

 

Thats hardcore

Lets see some pics of tank vents. I just left my line open.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flashmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well you probably have a line running to the front of the car now or do you have a sealed tank now?
If you have a breather port, then its fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear. I removed the charcoal canister, and had an open hose running underneath the car to replace it. I don't like the fact that it's open, so I added an inline check valve. It's not sealed, but the cracking pressure of 1psi must be too high. I'm looking for the PROPER way to use the existing vent without leaving it wide open to contaminants.

 

Yeah, let see those vented gas tank please. I need to do this to mine as well. What is the proper procedure to do this and what parts do we need to buy. Thanks fellas!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by V-SPEC 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, let see those vented gas tank please. I need to do this to mine as well. What is the proper procedure to do this and what parts do we need to buy. Thanks fellas!</TD></TR></TABLE>

-yes pics comments please

 

I pulled my canister last spring and closed the line.

No problems yet...maybe I'll get a little breather for it...

 

mine is just an open hardline behind my intake manifold.

up for pics of vented tanks

 

i have mine running underneath the car like the OP said he had his. never any issues. if you are uncomfortable, just put a breather on it.

 

Yeah, I think I'll just put a filter on there. Thanks for the input!

 

Guess our theory on the check valve was wrong...lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Guess our theory on the check valve was wrong...lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, it sounded like a good idea. Oh well, another $30 down the drain.

 

John like I was saying, a simple roll over valve will do the trick. There is not one on the car stock (thats what the canister is for) but you can get them at any shop that sells fuel stuff. Just adopt it to the hardline up front. It does have to point straight up.

Oh and all gas caps on 92 and up should already have vented caps (vent's both in and out at whatever psi). But if you are sucking up a major amt of fuel that will not always be enough.

 

why don't you just route it to right after your air filter and before the turbo?

 

this tube is just a vent tube. i don't think you would want constant suction on it...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">John like I was saying, a simple roll over valve will do the trick. There is not one on the car stock (thats what the canister is for) but you can get them at any shop that sells fuel stuff. Just adopt it to the hardline up front. It does have to point straight up.

Oh and all gas caps on 92 and up should already have vented caps (vent's both in and out at whatever psi). But if you are sucking up a major amt of fuel that will not always be enough.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you know what the smaller canister is, though? It seems to me that this might be a roll over valve. If you shake it, you can hear what sounds like a ball inside.

Since everyone else is running an open line, I've decided to buy an Earl's -10 inline fuel filter and put barbed hose ends on there.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaredKaragen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why don't you just route it to right after your air filter and before the turbo?</TD></TR></TABLE>

We're talking about fuel vapors, not crankcase vapors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sprockets &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you know what the smaller canister is, though? It seems to me that this might be a roll over valve. If you shake it, you can hear what sounds like a ball inside.

Since everyone else is running an open line, I've decided to buy an Earl's -10 inline fuel filter and put barbed hose ends on there.

We're talking about fuel vapors, not crankcase vapors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, might make for a fun boost in power on those super hot days.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohczcturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol, might make for a fun boost in power on those super hot days.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It would be interesting to see, lol!

 

I thought I'd bring my own post back from the dead to see what other people are doing with their stock gas tank vent after removing the charcoal canister. I'm not crazy about having it open, even though I have a filter on there. I was thinking about one of these:

https://www.holley.com/products/plum...arts/251008ERL

I'm not sure if that's for fluid only, though. I'm on hold with Earl's to find out. Anything new after almost 9 years?

 

Roll over vent works well

 

I dont see what your issue is, I removed the canister 5 years ago, and just left the line sitting in the engine bay never bothered me one bit or had any issue whatsoever

 

i have a small valve cover breather on the incoming tube. intially wanted to run a small ID pipe to return vent hose. just waiting til i come across something small and thin enough that i can get around both sides.