Hey, so today I got the nerve to actually learn how to do a valve adjustment on my h22. I did it once before on a d15 which was out of the car and much easier clearances. So anyways, I adjusted a couple of valves on my engine today and the engine ran great before, but now the idle surges and Vtec sounds different, I don't know what to say, but it sounds quieter for some reason. Anyways, the main problem, the idle goes from about 1200 to 700 rpms and just surges when the car is warm. The only thing I can guess is that maybe I tightened one of the valves too tight? Would that cause this? Also I changed my PCV valve today, my old one wasn't working. Thanks for the help!
-Jason

 

sounds like you forgot a vacuum line or accidentally bumped one loose while you were working on it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Giant_Bean &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like you forgot a vacuum line or accidentally bumped one loose while you were working on it</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, i would check for any possible vacuum leaks.

If you can't find any, try putting the old pcv back in, there is a chance you got a defective one.. but a vacuum leak is the most probable to cause the surging..

if there is DEFINATELY no vacuum leaks, try turning the idle air screw clockwise, that can help. also, not recommended, but you can cork the hole in your throttle body that routes thru the IACV. Start the engine, and once it starts surging, plug it with your finger, and if the surging stops, it can be a great ghetto fix!

 

also, if you adjusted/checked the clearance BEFORE you tightened the lock nut, it will be too tight. Check the adjustment AFTER the lucknut is tight. tightening the locknut can reduce clearance as much as .004"

 

If the car wasn't surging before, you either left off a vac line or something, or you tightened some of the valves too tight.

Check it over well before pulling the vc off, and be SURE to have the engine overnight cool before messing with valve clearances

 

Yeah, I checked all the vacuum lines, they all seam good, plus I didn't even touch any of them except for replacing my bad pcv valve. Yeah I'm adjusting the valves again right now. I let it cool overnight to make dead sure it's cool. The only thing is the clearance to get the feeler gauges in there is alot harder to do then it was on the d series i did. It's really tricky to even get the feeler guages in some of the tight spots, so it's hard to tell if it's too tight or too loose, plus some I can't even get a screw driver in while i tighten the locknut.

 

This will help when you adjust the valves:

Loosen the locknuts and back off the screws several turns (very loose), then get your feeler gauge in there squarely (make sure it's all way in there and even), then tighter the screw all the way down as far as it will go so it presses onto the gauge and the gauge won't move anymore, then loosen the screw just a TINY bit; 1/6 - 1/10th of a turn until the gauge slides out.

Then you have almost the exact clearance you are looking for and you can tighten the locknuts and be done with it. Works for me....

 

Check clearance between the cam lobe and the top of the rocker arm, that is much easier than the way I think you're doing it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check clearance between the cam lobe and the top of the rocker arm, that is much easier than the way I think you're doing it.</TD></TR></TABLE> U can do that? I thought it had to be inbetween the spring retainer and adjustment screw. Does both ways work? I readjusted em and the idle has gone away but now I think 1 or more of the valves is ticking.. grr one problem after the other. So to check clearances inbetween the cam and rocker arm do u have to take off the metal plate above the cam? Thanks for the help guys!

 

Checking between the tip of the valve stem and the adjustment screw is the same as checking between the cam and the rocker pad. When you check it like that the rocker arm just sits all the way down on top of the valve and the clearance opens up between the cam and the rocker pad.

You don't have to take anything off to do it.

 

Wow that sounds alot easier then how I've been doing it. I'll have to look into that. I guess 3rd times a charm. Lol. Thanks alot guys and mgags for the help. 1 more question, for the heck of it. After doing this and changing my pcv valve to a new working one, my vtec engagement sounds alot quieter and gradual, like before i put exhaust on my car. I was wondering, now that I have a working pcv valve does the better flow maybe change the sound now? Or am I just talking stupid.