well, i have being working on this turbo kit for about six months. pieces the kit together and also learing how to install it, or at least trying to learn. Well i think i did a decent job. have a look, i will have more pics posted soon probably tommorow since it is getting tuning.







[IMG]http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h181/leoverte/turbo
Thanksgiving07013.jpg[/IMG]



Modified by leoverte at 10:54 PM 11/27/2007


Modified by leoverte at 10:55 PM 11/27/2007

 

I'm not a fan of all the red everywhere, looks a bit tacky, but for all the work and doing it yourself.

Post dyno charts after the tune!

 

the pics are not good for the color. the red is actually all powdered coated flat textured red red to match the valve color...was trying to go for a DOHC cover crinkle red look...and it was a def better choice as to what the piping was previously colored..dam i gotta go to bed gotta be up earlier for the tuning session...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hurleyint &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not a fan of all the red everywhere, looks a bit tacky, but for all the work and doing it yourself.

Post dyno charts after the tune! </TD></TR></TABLE>

^ Agreed. Don't worry, I went into boost blind as well. Fun, but something you DONT want to learn from you mistakes! Nice job. Lose the red!

 

Nice, I'm in to see some numbers!

 

hmmm. Props for a DIY job.

 

I would like to know where you got the turbo because I too have a 99 accord and have been looking everywhere for one. Give me a link.

 

much props for boostin the f23, i would just change the color of the rubber connectors and spark plug wires to the same color please post some dynos asap!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hurleyint &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not a fan of all the red everywhere, looks a bit tacky, but for all the work and doing it yourself.

Post dyno charts after the tune! </TD></TR></TABLE>


and it be nice to know schematics of things like the turbo, injectors, who built the manifold blah blah blah...

 

nice, bay looks clean, lets see some numbers!

 

you need raise your hot side piping it hangs waaaaay to low I highly reccomend re routing it...........I put am air filter on your turbo instead of a screen....lot of my friends hae been switching and making more power..but any way looks good for a first time


dyno sheet and numbers a must

 

the kits is a turbonetics kit, with a little "custom stuff" on it. Pretty much whole kit except for couplers(ebay), t-bolts(ebay), HKS blow off valve, and had the innercooler piping was powdercoated wrinkle flat red with the valve cover for a JDM look. Turbo manifold was heatcoated. You can find the kit direct from turbonetics, or Treadstone is another compant that has a pretty good kit.

 

dam, i thought i was picky...im ok with the color, to me they pretty much match. Waiting for dyno numbers...car ran into problems at the tuning shop.

 

both the manifold and the turbo are turbonetics products, from the kit. the injectors are stock with the help of an AEM FPR and fuel rail. I have to wait once the problems are over so the car can then successfully product numbers on the dyno; and then i can see if i wll need more fuel for what my goal is, which is basically 225 to the wheels and a more fun car to drive. Also to use the full potential of the big brake upgrade and the omnipower coilovers. Trying to make the car more function and form while maintaining the looks i have...

 

are you talking bout the innercooler piping to the right of the frontal view pic?...if so, that is the way the turbonetics kit piping goes...and i dont even think that i can fit a filter on my turbo...the room is real tight, the oxgyen sensor plug and the manual transmission line are pretty close to the turbo.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1912576

This is a link to the original kit that i purchased,,,,i used a different wastegate, i didnt use the map sensor or missing link and opted instead to convert the car to obd1 and use a p28 ecu, didnt hook up yet the msd high inline fuel pump, and basically replaced all the vacum lines, fittings, and couplers.

 

cool I guess 225 is easily attainable goal to reach...I WOULD upgrade to at least DSM 450s instead of running the stock ones! I have heard of people doing it but not for me...you can find DSM injectors for 40-60 bucks....and in regards to your charg piping question I jsut see that as being the lowest point on the kit..but hey I have never boosted a 99...anyway.....seems good so far.

 

Ok guys, well i figured that i give you an update and hopefully get some insight to my problems at the same time.
On the saturday that just passed i took the car over to AAP Tuning (ALL ABOUT PERFORMANCE in Mantua TWP, South Jersey) for the tuning and dyno runs. That brought the first problem. I thought that i had fixed the issue of an oil leak, i didnt. I stopped ten minutes away form the shop to check the oil level, which was probably what i thought 90 to 95% filled before leaving for the 45 minute drive, taking into consideration the previous amount leaked out. My boy was following me in my g35 and basically called me and told me that the windshield was having OIL HITTING IT! SO at that stop i put a quart and a half in. When we finally get to the shop, my accords rear bumper had oil specks all over it. When we pulled the car in the shop, with in thirty minutes they had a puddle of oil at least 2 feet wide. During those 30 minutes the car was getting turned on and off, and revved repeatly to work on the tuning and idle. They realized that the F23 EVAP valve (3 wire) was not allowing the car to idle correctly with the tuned p28, and that it needed to be changed to a older 2 wire EVAP valve. So within the first 30 to 45ish minutes the shop had come across two issues, one the valve, and two the tremedous oil leak. That was around 11:30.
The shop and i decided to fix the issue there since they could get the gasket in the same day and change the valve for me as well, and then go on with the tuning and testing. I left and round 12:30 and told them to call me once they had the work completed and ready to tune. Around 3:30ish they called saying that the car was done and ready to get on the dyno. I get back they round 4:20ish. We we get the car up, and ready for the tuning and dyno its round 5. Well the car sounded really, really strong, engine ripping, and BOV singing!!! Im thinking, "dam that f23 is hauling A**!" NOT AT ALL...the car was "climbing" on the dyno sheet till round 4 grand, and then started going down on the dyno, as if the dyno was not trackin any more power. And if continued to do this for what seemed to be about ten or more pulls. The car would sound great, but not do anything after 4 grand, just start to go down.
Now the car didnt lose boost, becuase it held boost pressure of around 7 or 8 without a loss showing on the tuners laptop. Timing was double checked and perfected. All boost lines and vacuum lines were checked. Ignition and fuel were fine, the tuner also explained to me that he also added 5% and subtracted 5% of fuel from his adjustments to see if his calculations were off, and still the car did the samething. So after that many pulls and nothing giving, they began to look at the trans and the idea of the clutch, flywheel, having a problem. They figured that most likely the clutch was starting to slip at that point and the only was to check to actually take the car off and test it on the road. Well once the car was off the dyno, the car started making a chattering noise and the clutch pedal was grabbing very high. Once they heard that noise the shop quickly agreed that the flywheel BOLTS had come lose and the cltuch was not ingauging correclty, thus explaining the high pedal grip and loss of power on the dyno.
So now the third problem, "lose flywheel bolts" was going to make the car sit in the shop till monday to have them remove the tranny and determine if whether or not that was the problem. The shop 99% believed that that was the problem. well.....NOT AT ALL again. Yesterday the shop called once they got the trans off and told me that they were wrong. Which SUCKED. They then told me that they were going to do more research on the issue and call me back. And they did. The shop manager, who i have been talking to all this time, also the same guy working on the car, told me that the flywheel looked severely worn and that the clutch didnt look to good either. Today he called me and asked if he could has me come down to look over a couple of this that he found. When i got their he showed me my flywheel, an oem flywheel that had 200,000 miles on it, and we also compared them to a aftermaket generic brand that a friend of mines had for the f23. Mine did look like the used oem flywheel and had groves already in it. Plus from the aftermaket kit on my car, an XTD stage 3 sprung hub clutch and lighten flywheel and bearing, to the one that i brought in the bearing even looked different mines being taller by about 3 or 4 cm. Plus he showed me that my flywheel did NOT sit over the crank on the engine and rested on top not locking into position. He showed me the difference from an ACT flywheel that he had ordered to compare as well. The ACT has a small lip that fits over the crank making it fit snug and easier to bolt up, while my generic brand one you have to hold up and tighten at the same time because it has no lip on the edge.
He said that there was a strong possiblity that once the flywheel ws tightened onto the crank that it very well could have tilted and wsa allowing it to "walk all over" the clutch, thus not allowing the clutch to make totally contact with the flywheel at higher rpms. WITHOUT garantteing(i know its spelled wrong)it, since he didnt want to look like an "***" again after the first garantte with the flywheel bolts, he beleives that this can be the most possible issue that is causing the car not to record anymore power passed 4 grand. We decided to them go ahead and use the ACT flywheel that he already had there, and to just order a street and strip ACT clutch, bearing, and pressure plate since he felt that the whole setup just wasnt a good idea. So when the other parts come in tommorow, we wil know if the car responses better once the tuner arrives. The car will be put back together tommorrow, we just have to wait for the tuner to arrive.
Now BEFORE ANYONE THINKS THAT I AM BAD MOUTHING THE SHOP, I AM NOT!! I am actually thankful that they have been helpful with me as much as they have so far. Think about it, i brought them a car, with an engine that is not commonly tuned, has had a new bottom end and been converted to a manual from one mechanic, and modified and turboed by the owner. I basically brought them a car that has had many "hands" on it, which i think anyone who is a car enthuaist can understand. I have confidence that the shop can handle the issue, being that the guy working on my car has a 640+hp integra runnin 9's with a turbo as big as my head!! WHAT I AM TRYING TO DO with the post is asking you guys out there for your knowledge and experience with turbos and the f23 accord. Cuz like i said, this is my first experience with turbos and really actaully doing serious engine mods on a car, before this is has always been I/H/E and anything else done by SOMEONE ELSE. If you guys have any idea as to why this is happening, or info, please let me know. And THANK YOU FOR ACTUALLY READING THIS LONG A** POST.

 

Cliff Notes Please Thats a long *** post

 

you kinda got to read the whole thing to understand it...sorry i know it long. Hey read it during commercials!!

 

DUDE. That intake cooler is freakin amazing! Ive never seen/thought of that.
Can you name every engine performance mod on that whip for me, please?
I want to know.

And post some full body pictures of your car.

 

one word dood.....(paragraphs)

only reason I read it is because im interested in the build.....first thing I WOULD NOT HAVE DONE is dribe it to the shop un tuned....didi you atleast get a base map for your...stock injectors??????

After futher insperction of you setup I have humbly concluded that you can totally shorten that U on you hot side piping.......just cut equall length from both halfs....Im trying to save you a headach when and "if" you do...

GL man and keep us posted

And OH furthermore...I am not really buying that flywheel bolt deal...tsk tsk tsk I had that happen to me with my old H22 setup and you wouldov definetly heard the bolts flinging around the bell housing even on a dyno.....

Maintaine caution..all Im saying

Amd I'd investet in a catch can if you want all that red to stay pretty...

 

well nursing it to the tune shop on the stock obd2 ecu is really not going to harm the car. As long as i drove the car under no boost, i ws ok. When and if the only times that the car actually tried to boost, the stock ecu would recognize an issue and hold the car back basically.

 

so? did the tuner ever show up so you could put it back on the dyno to see if the clutch was the problem.

 

i havent been able to call the shop yet today...