My crx needs axles pretty darn bad, and I'm planning to replace them this winter while i have it out of commission to protect from salt, rust, etc. Any other time I have replaced any parts, I have used Genuine Honda parts, timing belt, water pump, all that crap, but now it's time for axles I would POSSIBLY like to save some money. Is there any reason not to just get Advance Auto axles which are cheaper with core exchange, and carry lifetime guarentee? If these are real low quality parts and wear faster than Honda ones or are known to break easier, I will just spend the money and get Honda ones, that isnt really an issue, it is just I would rather put money into other things.
I plan to get some "real" axles like some stage two's possibly whenever i get a new tranny in the future so I can get a better clutch (I have an 88 and theyre harder to find clutches that will hold 250 hp...in my experience and research) I am going turbo or Nitrous in the next year or two and figure stock clutch wont like that at the track.

Thanks for your help fellas Have a great thanksgiving

 

I had a "new" autozone axle fail on me, sheared off inside the diff and nearly ruined my trans! They gladly exchanged it and gave me $20 back, because they no longer have new axles, but only re-built ones.

I'll be getting either Raxles or Gator Axles in the near future.

 

well..if ur gonna get some performance axle...i would just go get aftermarket one from an autoparts store..I use aftermarket ones w/o a problem..never had an issue with it too. Alot of aftermarket ones are re-man oem axle

 

The cheapest **** they sell with a life time warranty. Then I just blow them up and replace them. What I did is get an extra set and had them replace them. Then I always had a good spare set kicking around. I bring them with me when I go racing just in case. I've had to replace some of them in grass and stuff, but I was never left without an axle.

I could never justify more then 200$ for 2 axles personally, especially since the auto parts store gives them with a lifetime waranty.

 

Call or visit Raxles, they are awesome and excellent pricing.

 

thanks for the info guys. I am still up in the air about it, but am considering the cheapo ones a possibility. I just know honda **** is usually better for replacing parts, but im all about a warrenty for life and cash in my pocket. Thanks again fellas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gator88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the info guys. I am still up in the air about it, but am considering the cheapo ones a possibility. I just know honda **** is usually better for replacing parts, but im all about a warrenty for life and cash in my pocket. Thanks again fellas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I always go with lifetime over no warranty. You litteraly can't go wrong because if the axles blows, you bring it back and get a free one.

 

Napa axles are allway better.

 

I bought Honda axles from the dealer. I paid an arm and a leg for them. After about 50 miles on the passenger it decieded to break while I was driving and caused it to pop back into my tranny and put a hole in it. I had to replace the tranny as well. Went back to the dealer and they had nothing to say. Didnt give me a refund or anything. So I went to Kragens bought another one,replaced the tranny and its still going to this day.

 

ill go to napa and advance and compare prices, and see if napas are warrentied too. Im going this route, thanks guys! its appreciated.

 

I'd go with pepboys lifetime warrenty rebuilt axles, I had em on my B16A DA and they were great, no clicking at all.

 

I am very unhappy with aftermarket axles. I recently changed my pass side on my 89 si with a rebuilt kragen unit within 7,000 miles it started to make the clicking noise! I should have just rebuilt my oem axles. Lesson learned. I would just rebuild it since its cheaper and will not giving you any problems..

 

b18a in a hatch, i got advanced auto axles instead of oem. i got them over 4 years ago and have driven the living crap out of my car and still haven't had any problems or clicking at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I always go with lifetime over no warranty. You litteraly can't go wrong because if the axles blows, you bring it back and get a free one.</TD></TR></TABLE> Werd

When I was learning to drive on slicks I was on a first name basis with the vato zone guys

 

My DA teg shaft that I bought from Partsource, 79$ a peice, cores returned, handled MANY 7200rpm launches on slicks.

I've seen the same driveshafts do the same with a 218whp. It's all in the quality of that specific rebuild, but hey, lifetime warranty just bring them back if you aren't satisfied. It took me 4 sets before I found the ones that we're perfect and strong.

LOL @ ***$nyper

 

Seems like you've changed your share of axles! I have some q's for you. I heard a clicking sound from what i thought to be the driver side cv (felt assured since replaced passenger cv last year) and replaced the whole axle w/ inner/outer cvs from shucks auto spply and replaced the trans oil as well. The sound is still there, if not worse and happens when turning either way. My steering is more stiff as well. I also noticed the boot on the steering rod split and the bushing on lower ball haggared.

q1: Does the tension rod increase/decrease stering stiffness?
q2: Might the ball joint be the source of the clicking?
q3: Would clicking occur if the axle isnt al the way in trans--i never heard click from ring.

Aloha-ken