Hello EveryBody..I plan to have a new build 2.0L B16b

HEAD:

99ITR Pr3-2 IN/EX polish,Mugen Valve Spring,TODA Retainer,TODA B cam

BLOCK:B16b

I still have no plan for the block..

i just bid a 00CTR B16b(same as B18c5) block..and i want to stroke it to 2.0L..for the good torque and also it will rev around 9000 rpm

the engine will for daily use and some hard push on the montain/highway run at weekend..

what i have to choose?i plan to have the product from Brian Crower..

(84.5mm,92mm crank,LONG ROD) ACL race bearing

is it good for me....?or something better?

thanks for the suggestion!!!

 

Wow.

 

just buy a b20 bottom end and call it a day.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fat Chick Magnet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just buy a b20 bottom end and call it a day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what he said...this is what you 'should' get with a built b20 bottom end



...and a well ported head

 

man that good number for a b20
whats the rest of the setup?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fat Chick Magnet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just buy a b20 bottom end and call it a day.</TD></TR></TABLE>


X 867

why give yourself more work than necessary?

good luck, anyhow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acydphryck &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what he said...this is what you 'should' get with a built b20 bottom end

http://i50.photobucket.com/alb...d.jpg

...and a well ported head </TD></TR></TABLE>

Most whored out dyno sheet in HT history.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kevin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Most whored out dyno sheet in HT history. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you must be referring to the red line on that dyno sheet...cuz the blue line was just found like sometime last week or so

 

Sourcing a local/semi local B18C crank shouldn't be too hard for you. Junk the Mugen valve train and the Toda B's (too small for a 2.0 IMO).

 

i was thinking of LS crank and eagle rod and Custom Pistons now..

seems it's much cheaper..

anyone tried this setup?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sourcing a local/semi local B18C crank shouldn't be too hard for you. Junk the Mugen valve train and the Toda B's (too small for a 2.0 IMO). </TD></TR></TABLE>

I want a 2.0L Bseries vtec...

ok then what's the best cam and valve spring for a 2000cc vtec?

 

as my research B20bottom end is not strong enough for a high prm vtec engine

so i will keep the CTR bottom end

 

Just a thought.

The stock CTR bottom end offers pitiful bottom end, and if you go 92mm, that's even worse than the stock B20B 89mm crank, in terms of rod angle and side loading.

B20B bottom end just isn't strong because of the lack of webbing around the block, but the girdle from a type R (not sure if GSR have it too) can provide some strength for hign rpm.

89mm B20B crank, B20B block, 85mm forged pistons and aftermarket rods are the cheapest way to make power for a street car, and still retain some measure of reliability, if you want to rev higher, go for a girdle setup from an ITR bottom end (I think CTR has it too) for bottom end reinforcement. depending on what kind of fuel you use, choose custom pistons with custom dome volume depending on what fuel you can get away with.

The only reason you want to retain the B16B block and sleeve it is probably for being a 'sleeper', where underhood you're hiding 200+whp in that B16B block

Lot's of way to make power, but what matters is 'where' the power is being made.

A 10,000 rpm 210hp B16B dyno queen can be slow because of it's pitiful low end grunt unless gear ratios are matched to suit.

Stroking up is a good way to get more power from the stock block, but the price you pay for power you get isn't cheap, not to mention at one point, you have to sacrifice the sleeves.

Whatever floats your boat, I guess.

 

Wy not just build/stroke a B18C5 and put a black valve cover on it? Seems like it would be less of a struggle than trying to cobble together a 2 liter B16B. And i would use S2S2 cams, and whatever valvesprings you like that would hold down that cam.

 

The B20 bottom end is strong enough...

Just put a 87 or 89 OEM crank in the B16 block, use some good rods (cunningham), and use the cams that will work the best, along with matching valve train that isn't rediculously priced like the Mugen. Which I'm guessing wouldn't yield impressive results if you tested them.

 

till the sleeves fail. And they will, if you use them on a track day hovering at 8-9K.

I can see his train of thought though, showing off a B16B engine outputting power way more than a 1.6 should.

People used to looking at dyno torque numbers probably will catch it at first sight, but for newbies..

"OMG! super powerful B16B!"

 

I don't see why the sleeves would fail if the tuning is good, track event or not.

A B18 crank in the B16B will be more than enough for him at a track event.

 

Hey...THE BLOCK OF B16B IS SAME OF B18C5...!!

Remember it is B16B not B16A!

and now i have the B16B block without crank,rods,piston...

that's why i want to stroke up the B16B..

You guys make disunderstanding!

and once again..B20B block is not in my list!

i have bought the B16B block already why i have to paid for the B20B?

B20B BlOCK IS NOT IN MY LIST~thanks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by King V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wy not just build/stroke a B18C5 and put a black valve cover on it? Seems like it would be less of a struggle than trying to cobble together a 2 liter B16B. And i would use S2S2 cams, and whatever valvesprings you like that would hold down that cam.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't see why the sleeves would fail if the tuning is good, track event or not.

A B18 crank in the B16B will be more than enough for him at a track event.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now i think for the OEM 89mm Crank...EAGLE ROD and custom forged piston..

anyone tried it b4?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by King V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wy not just build/stroke a B18C5 and put a black valve cover on it? Seems like it would be less of a struggle than trying to cobble together a 2 liter B16B. And i would use S2S2 cams, and whatever valvesprings you like that would hold down that cam.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the ITR head already...you ask me to paid for the GSR head?

help..~~

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shiroitenshi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">till the sleeves fail. And they will, if you use them on a track day hovering at 8-9K.

I can see his train of thought though, showing off a B16B engine outputting power way more than a 1.6 should.

People used to looking at dyno torque numbers probably will catch it at first sight, but for newbies..

"OMG! super powerful B16B!"</TD></TR></TABLE>

what's yr meaning?i have the B16B block...and i want to stroke it up u say i want to showing off?

and now i get the B16B already...should i sell it out and buy a B18C5 block?

and they're the same...don't think you are smart idiot..

"I can see his train of thought though, showing off a B16B engine outputting power way more than a 1.6 should."&lt;----OMG you really know me...LOL~

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TODAEG9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


and now i get the B16B already...should i sell it out and buy a B18C5 block?

and they're the same...don't think you are smart idiot..</TD></TR></TABLE>

What's the same? b16b and b18c5 blocks? Nope. 1.6L vs 1.8L.

So what's your ultimate goal? Pulling as much power as you can out of the b16 block you bought? or just going 2.0?

 

B16B and B18C have the same block but different Crankshaft,RODs,Piston

get my point?ther are in same height..!

you guys dun know this?

 

Sorry, logically I thought there was a diff in height.
Anyways carry on. lol

 

since the OP is from Hong Kong.

Insurance is based on displacement. Having a B16B block stamp is a big cost savings vs. the B20(a-z) stamp.

Mixing and matching valvetrain as you are doing is not going to be very good as there's reason to believe the mugen valvesprings themselves are not much stouter than the factory ITR units.

You've got a lot of reading to do on this site and you can't simply ask random questions at will and expect our NA brethren here to give up their "secrets."

What are you using for engine management as in what kind of ecu? What do you have for supporting modifications - as in what header, what intake, what exhaust? What size injectors?

Moreover, who is going to tune your set up? What are you power goals?