I sheared a wheel stud off at the last AX I went to. I disassembled the suspension, removed the knuckle assembly and took it to a local independent Honda repair facility near my house to have all 4 of the wheel studs pressed out and new OEM studs pressed in. I figured since the mileage on the knuckle was unknown (came from an Integra) it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a new oem wheel bearing pressed in while I had everything apart and at the shop.

I got the knuckle back same day (yesterday) and installed it back on the car (torqued the 3 castle nuts down to spec on their respective ball joints) and hand tightened the axle nut (for now). When I went to put the rest of the suspension together today, the 4 brake rotor holes would not line up with the wheel studs. WTF? I tried fitting it on there more than once to eliminate the possiblity of me just having a brain fart and not alining the holes in the rotor with the studs in a level manner, no dice. Everytime the holes in the brake rotor were just a few mm off from lining up with the studs.

Is it possible that the shop did not press one (or more) of the wheel studs in all the way and one (or more) of them is coming out of the hub an angle other than 90 degrees, preventing the holes in the rotor from lining up with the wheel studs? I'm stumped. To add insult to injury, I had to leave town this evening to visit some family out of state and will not return back home until Saturday late afternoon. I need my car ready for the last track day of the season on Sunday.
Your help and advice is appreciated.




Modified by BlueTeg at 12:48 AM 11/21/2007

 

firgure out the one stud out of alignment, install a lug nut on it and "tap" the lug nut to align the stud.

Install the brake disc, install wheel, Check the lug nuts VERY often until seated. Matter of fact I'd not even take it out onto a track until it's been seated.

 

Take a look at the back of the hub to see if all of them are seated correctly. You could also check them with a small straight edge to see if they are coming out straight. I have seen an instance where the stud press wasn't aligned correctly and bent the hub slightly, although I seriously doubt that in your case.

 

yeh could have bent the hub ever so slightly when pressing it out or if they have added heat to it they could have warped it ...... cant see them doin that tho

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
one (or more) of them is coming out of the hub an angle other than 90 degrees, preventing the holes in the rotor from lining up with the wheel studs? </TD></TR></TABLE>

no other explanation.

 

^^^ That has happened to me more than once. What I normally do is get a "junk" lug nut and a bunch of 12mm washers. Put the washers on the lug stud, then tighten the lug nut against the washer. This will normally be enough to pull the stud perfectly straight.

I found that putting a bit of extra pressure on my press when installing hubs keeps this from happening. I used to install the studs to where the press was just putting a little pressure on the stud, and that's when I was having these alignment problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^ That has happened to me more than once. What I normally do is get a "junk" lug nut and a bunch of 12mm washers. Put the washers on the lug stud, then tighten the lug nut against the washer. This will normally be enough to pull the stud perfectly straight.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

What are we talking here...ballpark?
60 lb/ft? 80 lb/ft? 100 lb/ft?

I don't want to tighten too much and strip the stud.

 

this is actually one of the main reasons i dont like the idea of using a lugnut to tighten your wheel studs in place.

you are forced to totally over torque the stud. that stretches the threads and possibly over the elastic limit. we all know there are reasons for torque values, and not to exceed them too much.

i would consider having the ppl press the hub out again and redoing it with a press.

 

I've never gone over 80 ft*lbs. In fact, you can pull the stud in place with much less torque, IMO. You shouldn't have to put more than the normal 80. If so, I'd pull the hub and make sure everything is okay.

 

I did the washer/lug torque method to pull my replacement studs through...it worked very well, although a bit interesting i might add...Just make sure that lug is using all of its available threads...dont want any help stripping that new stud...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ...esteban &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just make sure that lug is using all of its available threads...dont want any help stripping that new stud...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good reminder. I'll be sure to use an open ended lugnut for this.

Thanks for all the help everyone. I get back tonight and hopefully can fix this up quickly.

 

You might try and turn the rotor 90 degrees on the studs, that MAY do it........good luck......

 

Torqued the open ended lug nut down on the washers + threded a "junk" lug nut on the suspected studs that were crooked and gave it a few light-medium whacks with a hammer to straighten them out in the correct direction.

worked like a charm, made my event today. thanks all.

 

just whack it

 

f'd up wheel studs ftl