Hey everyone I have a 94' sol with an 01' LS swap.

First off, I'm sure the ecu is obd2. The Dizzy is, and there isn't any conversion harness I can see. Can OBD2 be chipped and tuned? (P72 I believe)

I already have Injectors, and aside from that, nothing.

I'd like to have a nice DD, and something I can take autocrossing and road racing during the 'season'.

10lbs on stock guts should be fine, correct?

I don't want to spool to fast, or to slow.

I'm looking at a 6puck sprung clutch (incase I build and crank the boost)
Light (6-8 lb) flywheel.

Recommendations on the snail, mani, wg, bov.. etc?

Trying to get it all done for under 1K.

Thanks in advance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kris.is.awesome &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd like to have a nice DD, and something I can take autocrossing and road racing during the 'season'.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you really planning on taking it to the track ("road racing") or are you just saying that?

Which sanctioning body? Which class are you going to race in? If it's a class that allows forced induction then you are going to be way over your head unless you expand your budget by more than 10x. It is pretty costly to get a turbo Honda up to snuff for road racing, but I'm guessing you aren't really going to race it, because if you were, you would already know the class rules and you wouldn't be asking.

 

dont use a light weight flywheel the stock one is fine. a p72 is a gsr vtec ecu so if it really is a p72 it may be chipped already or else the car would run like ****...10lbs is a relative term... which turbo will you be using? 7 lbs on a gt35r could be 25lbs on a t25....measure by cfm not by psi a bigger turbo flows more cfm at the same psi

 

I have an LS-T in my Sol. I ran the SCCA Solo II, but I had to run either SM2 or DM... both suck. It's still fun though.

I don't know about keeping it under 1k, that's pretty low $$. Log mani + turbo+ exhaust = $1000 (at least)

I run 10 lbs boost daily (stock map sensor) on a bone stock engine, just remember to take timing off per lb of boost. GT3071 w/0.48 A/R. It spins in the first 3 gears w/LSD.

I couldn't get my P72 ECU to work properly w/o VTEC so I got a P74 (?- non-vtec) ECU and added Hondata. If I was you, I'd get a conversion harness and use an OBD I ECU, you'll have more options.

I have a sort-of web site http://mysite.verizon.net/tailwags3/

 

i would be shocked if you had an obd2 ecu. you can run an obd2 distributor off of an obd1 ecu without a problem; its possible that you just have the LS wiring harness, which would still plug in at the shock towers

 

Your budget is the toughest part of this whole thing. If you want, i have a home made log manifold, Audi K26, Audi external wastegate and DSM sidemount for sale...$300+shipping.

Moving on...
-What size injectors do you have and what kind of power are you hoping to make? Shooting for ~300whp is relatively safe with a good tune on a healthy engine. When determining your goals, dont think in terms of PSI, but rather in power.

A good 6pk clutch will work for you...i would advise against a light flywheel unless you had planned to use a small turbo. Using a really light fly with a larger turbo decreases transient response (gear to gear).

If you are actually OBD2, convert to OBD1 and tune on Crome...you can learn it yourself and save money there...

 

As was mentioned earlier, i highly doubt that you are obd2, since that would have involved a lot of re-wiring. So you can jsut chip the ECU that you already have or pick up a spare. And $1000 is a pretty low budget to boost a B especially if you are trying to make it a reliable daily driver set up. Save up some more and do it right. And yes, crome is a good option for affordability.

 

Allright, I have RC 440's I picked up from a friend.

The code off of the ECU reads:
37820-P75-A01
830-117930

My mistake- it is a P75. I'm fairly new to this whole honda thing (I was a jeep guy) But I helped a few people locally do lots of installs and swaps. Like I said, the Dizzy is OBD2, and I can't see a conversion harness anywhere. Converting to OBD-1 means.. what? New ECU and dizzy, plus the harness for the obd1 dizzy plugs?

Furthermore, yes- I do plan on taking it to the track. There is a strong autocross presence around here, and lots of locals go to VIR for a 'funday' as they call it. I'm not looking to get into serious racing yet, just having fun out on the track.

To keep the cost down, I want to run quality, used equipment. There was a full setup for $700 around here I got to have a look at. Garret t3/t4 ( i forget the trim) Tial 38mm WG, and tial BOV. IC and piping were ebay specials. Mani was a log style. I'm looking to make 280-300 whp on the stock guts, and 10lbs should be right on the money with a good tuner. (I'm not accounting the tuning in the cost of the project)

I'd like to run a small turbo- something that will spool quickly, but not be at it's maximum workload.

Schister 66, I don't think there's a PM function here on H-T, so if you could email me more info on the setup you have. Thanks

Kris.is.awesome@***.net

 

Anyone?

Here's a better shot of my engine.

 

280-300 on on 10 psi is going to be hard. to put it in prespective of going the used qualtiy route

i bought a used drag kit with hondata s200 and rc550 injectors for 1200
walbro pump, oil restrictor, 2 slim fans, boost controller, and other odds and ends for about 250
and tuning was about 400
i already had a clutch and flywheel to put in so that was free
and a blox manifold for free.
so total was 1850

with 16psi it netted me 290 hp on a t3t4 57 trim turbo.

10psi will give you about 240hp

my best advice is save up some more money because boosting the right way will take unexpected money when buying a used kit. tuning alone can cost more than a grand
hondata 300 plus 150install
300-400 tune
injectors 300
pump 100

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kris.is.awesome &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Allright, I have RC 440's I picked up from a friend.

The code off of the ECU reads:
37820-P75-A01
830-117930

My mistake- it is a P75. I'm fairly new to this whole honda thing (I was a jeep guy) But I helped a few people locally do lots of installs and swaps. Like I said, the Dizzy is OBD2, and I can't see a conversion harness anywhere. Converting to OBD-1 means.. what? New ECU and dizzy, plus the harness for the obd1 dizzy plugs?

Furthermore, yes- I do plan on taking it to the track. There is a strong auto</TD></TR></TABLE>

p75 should be the correct ecu. i am guessing that you have an obd1 ecu.

like i said before, just because the dizzy is obd2, does not mean that the car is obd2. the ONLY difference between an obd1 and obd2 dizzy is the shape of the plug. on one of my cars, i have an obd2 dizzy, but i am still running an obd1 ecu.

what probably happened is that the person that swapped your car likely used the obd2 LS integra harness, which plugs directly in to your obd1 del sol engine bay harness at the shock towers. that would be why you have obd2 dizzy plugs.